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Playing in the Sandbox Group Build Sept 1, 2024 - Jn 1, 2025

F4U-1A Corsair Tamiya 1/32


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On 11/28/2022 at 9:14 PM, Peterpools said:

Holy Smokes the effects are amazing and look so good. At this stage, the paint shows signs of bleaching and fading - so very well done

 

On 11/28/2022 at 10:18 PM, GazzaS said:

Very nice subtle effects on the paint work, Rob.  

 

On 11/29/2022 at 4:16 PM, Martinnfb said:

Methodical and clean approach, great presentation as well. Joy to follow.

 

10 hours ago, Irishman1 said:

Looking fantastic!

Thank you Gentlemen, concerning the approach, I was thinking about chipping next, but I think I will skip it for now and continue with spraying on the stencils and stars and bars. I searched my zillions of color jars and found none fitting for the dark blue of the insignia. I may have to mix my own. BTW, which color do you use for the blue around the stars?

Cheers Rob 

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3 hours ago, KevinM said:

Thank you Kevin, this is looking good, like the Tamiya Royal blue. The downside, it takes at least two weeks, to get stuff to my island, by which time, I plan to have the Corsair finished. At least, I will try to mix something adequate.

Cheers Rob

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My Corsair got the mad stenciling disease :D. I applied the fitted strips of tape for the wing walk areas and then added all the black stencil masks, which are not covered in these areas. The OneManArmy masks are very sharply cut into Kabuki tape and the manual shows very well, where to place them. There are differences to the decal placing suggested by Tamiya, but I decided to ignore these. 
I gave some thought, about how to spray the stencils, without having to mask the entire plane. I will try to use a template cut into 40mm wide de tacked Kabuki tape for masking off every single stencil, one after the other, lets see, how this works.
I used a rubber brush, to push down the masks around the letters properly and will use NATO black for the stenciling.

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Cheers Rob

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Rob

A ton of work and the masks are a game changer. Your solution to actually adding the air brush into the mix seems exactly the way to go. I've been to their web site and surely will be adding some to a build down the road that they offer masks for.

Awesome work for sure

 

 

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Thank you @Jbert27, @Peterpools Peter and @BlrwestSiR Carl,

The walking areas got sprayed along with the black stencils on the top side of the wings and the fuselage. I used Tamiya NATO black acrylic mixed with Mr. Leveling thinner and carefully applied the very thin mix with low pressure and in thin layers onto the masks. The manual suggest not to use pure black, which I never considered and spray the layers until you can't see the yellow of the masks anymore. That was exactly what I did and I was fearless enough, to make the first try directly on the tail wing. I have to say, I'm really amazed, how the results look. The masking is tedious and consumes lots of Kabuki tape, but the stencils look like tattooed into the surface color. I still cannot believe, how fine they are cut.

That's the Corsair with the walkways and stencils, which are hard to spot in this view.

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This is the area from the previous post after spraying, even heavier macroed.

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Some more on the tail

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I didn't want to mask all of the stencils completely and cut some templates from 40mm wide Tesa Professional (much cheaper than Tamiya Kabuki tape and nearly as good)
onto my cutting template with differently sized cutoffs. I de tacked the template, because I didn't want them to lift the masks when removing them.

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I'm very pleased with the outcome and the results make the tedious masking work nearly forgotten. Hasta la vista silvering :D.

Cheers Rob

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Thank you Gentlemen, these masks are very good indeed and the results are awesome, but the process needs definitely more time than decaling. I wouldn't have liked doing the same on my Kai Phantom build :icon_eek:.
I mixed masking techniques, Gary. The harder to reach stencils were completely masked, the others were surrounded by the templates. So far no fails, except one stencil, which should have been gone over the stars and bars :wallbash:.

Cheers Rob 

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Today, I managed to airbrush all the stencils on the underside and started with the stars and bars. 1ManArmy supplies these as masks in their set. They recommend to apply them with the help of transparent low tack frisk foil, to make placement easier. I didn't have this type of foil at hand, so I placed the outside masks by hand and hope the star and bar masks fit, after the white color has dried. I used Insignia white, which is a bit off white and sprayed it a tiny bit translucent, to not look too uniform.

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Cheers Rob

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18 hours ago, Peterpools said:

Sure sounds like a lot of work but well worth the time effort. Any photos of the underside?

It is Peter, and a kind of work you shouldn't rush to not commit stupid mistakes.

I sprayed the insignia on, not without issues. As said in the last post, I applied the outline masks first and then covered all the surrounding areas properly. I did this without first to put some transparent adhesive foil onto the masks, like the manual suggests. An idea, I should have followed, as the masks on the fuselage sides stretched a bit, which was not noticeable to my blind eye. After spraying, I had two bad spots, which need to be corrected, because of this.
I tried to place the stars by hand and found it nearly impossible, so I took out my transparent Tesa film (Scotch tape) and applied strips over the masks to fill into the outline mask. Now placement was a lot easier, means not only RTFM, but also follow it :D.

Scotch tape on inner masks.

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Applied onto the plane into the outside masks.

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After removing the unnecessary ones.
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The background color was AK's Real Color Insignia White and for the blue, I used Vallejo's Model Air Insignia Blue, which I luckily found in my stash. The blue seems to be very fragile, so I will save the markings with a clear coat, before I mask of the corrections and some stencils, which go onto the insignia.

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... and for Peter ;)

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Cheers Rob

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Just now, Peterpools said:

Rob

Incredible work - some nice back-tracking and open field running and the stars and bars look perfect. Still blown away by the stencils -tedious and obviously time-consuming, but OMG, do they look fantastic. 

 

Yes, they do !....harv

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18 hours ago, Peterpools said:

Incredible work - some nice back-tracking and open field running and the stars and bars look perfect. Still blown away by the stencils -tedious and obviously time-consuming, but OMG, do they look fantastic.

 

18 hours ago, harv said:

Yes, they do !....harv

 

15 hours ago, BlrwestSiR said:

Really great job on the stars and bars as well as the stencilling. It's great not having to deal with silvering and other decal issues.

Thank you friend, the stencils look like the scale rendition of the real thing, easily, because they are ;). The path is challenging, but the results speak for themselves. 
I would have wished for a bit better, error free application of the strs and bars. I sealed them under a coat of flat in the morning, to make the corrections. This was all my fault in not taking the manual too serious about mask placement.

Cheers Rob

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