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Playing in the Sandbox Group Build Sept 1, 2024 - Jn 1, 2025

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Jeff , harv , Gaz & everyone else looking in...Thank you.

I've exhausted the capability of my Sotar. Down to 3.5 lbs pressure , clogging almost instantly , it soldiered through the minute color applications.

The jaw line is noticeably better and some of the harder edged shapes have been softened:

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Obviously it would take a fine arts graduate to render the dhead perfectly to match the pic.

I am not that person.

The goal is to render a copy, hopefully a passable represention of this cool-ass artwork.

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Thanks harv and everyone else looking in...

Wewl,wewl,wewl , right , roight, roight moi lit'l droogs!

 I persevered and got The Deathhead into a configuration I'm happy with:

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Not exactly perfect , but it does not have to be:

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Deadly as FAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAACK!!!!!!

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Looks pretty stark hangin' out there by himself. One would be wise to think of the bomb site , flare rack , airspeed guage and other details as well as the deadly prototype 2cm Becker cannon:
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Final work done with watercolor pencils and dry brushing:

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The skull would fit into one of these early German movies like 'Cabinet of Dr. Caligari' or others, which means, it looks perfect and fits the timeframe with it's design and making. What a badass Gotha.

Cheers Rob

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Thanks DRob.

And concentrating on the front fuse , rendered in gloss black to replicate the early varnished plywood finish , I made some masks to drybrush the window frames & steps:

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Done in 4 colors:

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Details of the gun ring reinforcement and other little items were done at the same time. Window inside masks are still in place .

Working towards sealing up the front half of the fuse.

A good time to point out the natural demarcation provided by the cockpit coaming and the gun ring. I have a mask cut to fit this void as well .

Getting closer.

 

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Thanks Jeff and all others daring to view the work...

Not much visual input this time.

40 odd eyelets have been glued in the top wing. A double glueing , initially with a small amount of canopy pva then a thinned down application to wick the adhesive deep into the holes. Rib tape cleanup , paint touch up and a lotta lines to be attached. I am contemplating gluing the struts into the bottom wings , this means attachment isnt far off.

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I have to admire your dedication and skill set on this build, especially you skill set........ I think your experience in the sign industry has most definately has been an asset .  I am watching this come together with great interest...

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  • 2 weeks later...

LOL

Thanks Ernie.

However the custom printed ALPS decals may not make the cut. I'll make the decision tomorrow:

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I like the idea of guards for the control cabls along the fuse . I took the kits and modded them into what i would consider serviceable:

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The single mount is the top

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Detail addditon continuation.

Specifically the re-inforcement for the Becker cannon.

Exterior detail was added from flat black vinyl cut on my sign cutter .

The same for the interior re-inforcement details. Here is the cut vinyl:

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The rectangle to the right is the panel under the fuse that gets in the way of a good fuse joint , sand it off and apply the panel after.

Details added with a beading set:

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Triple drybrush ; light grey , silver , and copper on the hardware heads:

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A diff procedure the vinyl is self adhesive and will be clear coated. After that we'll see how flexible it can be.

These are to go inside the gun ring as support for the Becker install. There are ancillary issues to installing a Becker , these were prototype 20 mm cannons , there fore ongoing work would be done as the weapon was tested. Pics show 2 diff gun rings with diff details for the cannon install. Again mine are an amalgum of available details.

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Thanks harv.

Gun ring detail goes in and the p/e ring itself plopped on for a look:

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Pretty nice p/e piece.

I think someone said " annealing" in 2010 on a model forum , and thereafter many burgeoning modelers began melting the pi$$ outtta every scrap of p/e they could get their torch on.

 My metal work experience gives me a little more insight into metal bending . I did try annealing some p/e and was not happy with  the result. I've never done it again and really dont see the need for it. Annealing can compromise the structure and worst of all you cant come back from it. Practice bending past your desired profile to see the metal come back to where you want it. I think in the toughest of profiles , with multiple bends or contours , maybe anneal but try the work with the metal prior to frying the living hell out of it.

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The gun ring looks so real, great work.
I second your thoughts about annealing mostly. I use it only for non structural elements, which have complicated to bend forms.
With brass and copper there are roughly spoken two grades of annealing.
First level is to get rid of the inner tension and needs temperatures between 250-300 degrees C.
Most people let the brass glow reddish and reach higher temperatures above 450 degrees C, which make the material soft in addition to the first effect.

Cheers Rob

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That is a great detail there!  Nicely done!  I'm a big fan of annealing.  Obviously, if a piece is flat, I don't bother.  If I have fine parts, I have an old pan that I anneal in.  I have melted parts by mistake before using open flame...  I wept bitter tears.

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Thanks Gaz.

And like I say , if you wanna incinerate your p/e to the point of material compromise , watching as the material changes forever into a limp , smoking banana skin , then fill yer boots!

 Anyway here are some more fuse details , assembled and carded for paint:

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The upper left is the gunring 'door' , the ring , and the kit prop debris guards.

I chose the kit p/e for the guards as the aftermarket set has proven to be almost useless , here are one of the a/m guard screens:

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Zero ref pic for the a/m screen , lots for the kit screen.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Pushing on with smaller details , fuse wise , mirrors and windshield specifically.

The windshield needs to be addressed early , earlier than I did as it is pretty much the worst fitting part in WNW history. It has an acute mounting angle , with tabs top and bottom as well as 2 mounting ...lumps... cant think of any other way to describe them. Fit it as soon as you start work on the instrument panel area.

The mirrors were fitted by drilling the marked hole inside the ip box , and guessing where the lip mounted one goes. They are angled as I angle the mirrors on my Harley slightly upwards and to the outside. P/E bezels were used to replicate flanges for the left mirror and the windshield:

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Thanks for lookin".

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Thanks GAz.

A few more...

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These pics help me to see whats missing too. Like the pump handle ,a part lost almost right out of the gate

Additions include lighting , map 'basket' , toggles and piping, and everything on the back , this piece will be removable for inspection.

The piece is perhaps a cube 1.25" in size.

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Wow, great work, I will store these pictures for my 1/48 G.V. This will be less detailed, but it should look about right.
Your IP is a masterpiece with all the different materials actually looking like they are made out of it.

Cheers Rob

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8 hours ago, krow113 said:

Thanks GAz.

A few more...

image.thumb.jpeg.9c91f6de9cba022b0f9f1e3f8ad9774c.jpeg

image.thumb.jpeg.3183f8fbddda0eff0f24de74e82d922b.jpeg

These pics help me to see whats missing too. Like the pump handle ,a part lost almost right out of the gate

Additions include lighting , map 'basket' , toggles and piping, and everything on the back , this piece will be removable for inspection.

The piece is perhaps a cube 1.25" in size.

This is simply amazing! Wood, Instruments, piping/ cabling beautifully done. 

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Thanks Kman!

Dimensions taken and mirrors cut from sign material.

I used this pic to illustrate a property of the material , it can be dented , in this case on the left of the left mirror , this just with my fingernail:

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Using a sticky stick may be a better install tool.

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