RCAF Lanc 10MP. This really is a group effort

[GazzaS]

Turtleneck?

Really...  It's awesome, Ernie!

[Clunkmeister]

2 hours ago, GazzaS said:

Turtleneck?

Really...  It's awesome, Ernie!

The autocorrect at 0100 version of turtledeck  

[Clunkmeister]

Well, so far, so good. 

[1to1scale]

Ernie, you forgot the scale bottle of Canada Dry in the cockpit!

[Clunkmeister]

10 minutes ago, 1to1scale said:

Ernie, you forgot the scale bottle of Canada Dry in the cockpit!

And my hydraulic lines look big enough to operate the entire RCAF instead of one Lanc. 

[Jeff]

Mike sure nailed the decals eh? Your application is flawless, by the way..............................

[1to1scale]

2 hours ago, Clunkmeister said:

Well, so far, so good. 

Just curious, are the wings removable for transport? Or are they on forever?

 

[Clunkmeister]

They slide on an off, but there's a teeny gap in a couple spots.

Plus, they'll need to stay on this one, what with the antenna farm that's fixin to go on it.

[Peter Hickey]

Wow..a show stopper for sure, looks great, well done.

Regards,

Pete

[Clunkmeister]

Well, my only issue is some mystery crazing on this one convex window. I have no idea now it occurred, it was perfect up till it was masked, but it’s certainly caused be me somehow. I’ll overcoat it with Future from the inside. I should be able to reach it with a funky brush.

 

[GazzaS]

32 minutes ago, Clunkmeister said:

Well, my only issue is some mystery crazing on this one convex window. I have no idea now it occurred, it was perfect up till it was masked, but it’s certainly caused be me somehow. I’ll overcoat it with Future from the inside. I should be able to reach it with a funky brush.

 

I have finally learned never to use CA or Tamiya extra thin anywhere near a masked piece of clear plastic.  Every time I have tempted fate, the adhesive finds a way to wick up under the tape.

[Clunkmeister]

Yeah the funny thing is, there was no anything around it. They were secured with epoxy and canopy glue, and sat for weeks uncovered as I worked on the wings. I maxed, then got to prep and paint. The only thing I can see is possibly paint fumes reacting with the plastic. I’m hoping if I get some future on the inside surface, it’ll hide it some. If not, some light overcoating with smokey clear might help. 

There’s always got to be that “one thing”.  

 

[seiran01]

That clear resin really is an enigma... next time I’m going to make you a plug to vac form/heat form the rear windows from 

[Clunkmeister]

48 minutes ago, seiran01 said:

That clear resin really is an enigma... next time I’m going to make you a plug to vac form/heat form the rear windows from 

I have no idea what happened Mike, but it might be a reaction to whatever I used to polish it, or even the Micro Set and Sol, I have no clue.  After Chattanooga, I’ll knock it out and replace it with one of the spares.

What’s odd is that the other side is good.

[FME erk]

What I really like is the alternative scheme from the usual BC night camouflage (nothing wrong with that of course).

The Canadian version is really bright for such a role but I see now that you can get decals for a French version, presumably all White so that could possibly be a temptation for somebody ???

https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/BER32061

 

Coming together really well Ernie, Good luck at Chatoo

David

[Clunkmeister]

So, hit the outside it with a couple small Future coats last night. Much much more subtle on the window.

I’ll do the inside tonight.

[Clunkmeister]

One thing with Mission Models Metallics. 

They are seriously tough. If you follow their directions, they won’t lift when masking, either.

BUT, you MUST clearcoat before decal application. The metallics don’t like water. Because they’re water based, any water that gets on he surface can and does affect them.  Overcoat with clear as soon as they’re nice and dry to avoid spots from even a drip of water.   

In that respect, MMP is the opposite of Alclad. Alclad doesn’t like clear as much and can change the sheen. I always apply decals directly on Alclad. MMP loves clear, it does not affect the sheen, and makes decal application painless.

 

 

[DocRob]

11 hours ago, Clunkmeister said:

Well, my only issue is some mystery crazing on this one convex window

Maybe some Canadian Club in your breath, while celebrating the great big thing . I mostly Futurize clear plastic and have only issues if they stay masked for to long. Hopefully Future will cure your window.

Cheers Rob

[Clunkmeister]

9 minutes ago, DocRob said:

Maybe some Canadian Club in your breath, while celebrating the great big thing . I mostly Futurize clear plastic and have only issues if they stay masked for to long. Hopefully Future will cure your window.

Cheers Rob

It won’t hurt to try, Rob. I had polished and  Futurized them before I installed them way back when as well.  They are 3D printed from a clear resin and are hollow in behind. We were experimenting with options for the windows and came up with this idea. 

If this doesn’t work, I’ll knock it out in a couple weeks and install a spare. I’ll need to reapply decals around it, but it’s not the end of the world. 

I’m  not too concerned right now as it doesn’t show at all when looking from above, and in person it’s not so apparent with the Mk.1 eyeball.    The camera brings it out badly. 

It’s too bad as so far it’s the only somewhat obvious flaw on the entire build.   Life goes on. 

[DocRob]

7 minutes ago, Clunkmeister said:

It won’t hurt to try, Rob. I had polished and  Futurized them before I installed them way back when as well.  They are 3D printed from a clear resin and are hollow in behind. We were experimenting with options for the windows and came up with this idea. 

If this doesn’t work, I’ll knock it out in a couple weeks and install a spare. I’ll need to reapply decals around it, but it’s not the end of the world. 

I’m  not too concerned right now as it doesn’t show at all when looking from above, and in person it’s not so apparent with the Mk.1 eyeball.    The camera brings it out badly. 

It’s too bad as so far it’s the only somewhat obvious flaw on the entire build.   Life goes on.

Every build has a flaw, at least to the builder, good if it's such a minor annoyance . Are you planning an in flight display? If that's the case it could be a case of bad defogging or a bit of frosted ice. As the window has a simple shade, maybe one of those among us who do vac parts are able to produce a new one.

Cheers Rob 

[1to1scale]

That’s true, we all see our own flaws, but judges see everything!

[Clunkmeister]

1 hour ago, DocRob said:

Every build has a flaw, at least to the builder, good if it's such a minor annoyance . Are you planning an in flight display? If that's the case it could be a case of bad defogging or a bit of frosted ice. As the window has a simple shade, maybe one of those among us who do vac parts are able to produce a new one.

Cheers Rob 

It'll be a ground display, I just haven't installed the gear yet.  

yes, I'm thinking a simple VAC form will be a great idea. We'll see.

The good news is that this model with be "Display Only" and afterwards, I can easily remove the offending component and install a new one through the tail area.

[Clunkmeister]

As the very famous philosopher Borat exclaimed, 

GREAT SUCCESS!

We hit with 600, 800, 1000, 6000 paper on the outside, and mostly it went away.  

So as I used to say: “Good enough for Government Work!”

[seiran01]

Close enough for punk rock!

[Clunkmeister]

Going off old photos it looks pretty darn close to me. Wait overnight then some pastels and then light overall wash.