DocRob

Taste differs , but I have to say, that the air intakes are a piece of art, the rest, ... Cheers Rob

Nice little Hummingbird. I sure have to get one, but first I will follow your masterclass build. As it is more or less wingless, will it's presentation be defunct ? Cheers Rob

Even on the end of the year you should go for a champagne instead of drinking Mr. Surfacer . Great work on the firefighter so far. I like the dedication, showing the different materials of the prop. Material appearance is what changes a plastic model into something special. Cheers (No Mr. Surfacer) Rob

I know for sure were one of the Russian T-34's was, because it was in front of the house of my parents and shooting into the house, causing lots of damage. Luckily nobody was harmed during that attack. Cheers Rob

Thanks Danny, everything looks fine for the moment, but it was a little shock and doing the vet job is not my favorite business. Living on a tiny island has lots of benefits, but some hard aspects too and you better be able to do a lot of things yourself. I sure do Cheers Rob

Feliz año nuevo from the Canary Islands. Some of you went through hard times personally and I hope, everything will be better this year. Yesterday my dog got bitten by a neighbors dog and we had to treat him ourselves, because there was no vet available. He seems ok, and gets fresh Tuna as a benefit and to hide the antibiotics . Today I'm hangover a little after some very fine cocktails (self prepared, I do better cocktails than modelling ) yesterday with friends, but hey, it's 2020 and the weather is fine aaaaaaannnnd there are some waves on the Atlantic, so it will be surfing instead of modelling. Cheers Rob

Great work on the engine. I also bought some of the Anyz stuff and will use it on my Arado 234 build. For obvious reason not for the engine , but for the braking lines, like Rick did on his Tempest build. Cheers Rob

God luck with the reaper, hopefully everything will be all right for you. Airbrush wise it's hard to me to recommend one, I see them more as tools and all have their pros and cons. Personally as an ex engineer I prefer a very refined, well designed and easy to maintained heavy metal one. Overall the Infinity is that for me, but not without objections. More important than the airbrush is the way to learn to handle it. Choosing the right Colours, thinners, air pressure thinning grade and maintenance / cleaning are the adjusting levers and it's still a hit and miss with me, even with the Infinity. Cheers Rob

Our forum is a great place and that's because of you all here and specially the busy guys enabling it to be like that, mostly in the background, none the less time and energy consuming. Thanks to you all, you are my only modelling connection to the world, being a little isolated on my tiny island and surrounded by modelling ignorants . Yeah, group hug it is. Happy new year Cheers Rob

Guys, I feel ashamed when I see your output and quality. It seems, I finished only three kits in 2019, but started some more, which consumed lots of time as an excuse . Char 1b Tamiya My GB build RSO from Riich Dottie Mae Hasegawa / Eduard Happy new year Cheers Rob

Hi Phil, today I took a closer look at my airbrushes for a short comparison. There are lots of differences between the H&S Infinity and Ultra, but nozzles and needles seem to be the same. The main differences are the screw in color reservoir (Infinity) vs. stick in (Ultra), where I prefer the Infinity, because it's easier to clean because of the larger diameter and it's easier to exchange. With the Infinity you get the possibility to adjust the amount of Colour supplied with the brass part on the end and the knob on it makes it possible to do a blow out into a tissue for getting rid of blocked airways in the airbrush, which to me both are very important an often used mechanisms. The Infinity's trigger works smoother, while I don't like booth too much, because I tend to cramp easy with both of them. The needles of both are very easy to bend while cleaning and you have to be careful while screwing on the front cap. Even the slightest disorientation on the needles tip leads to terrible spray result. I once bent a needle tip slightly and bend it back carefully (only fractions of a millimeter) and honed the needle tip with a Japanese grinding stone for knives (6000 grit). This picture shows a comparison between a H&S needle above and a Rotring needle below, both of them being 0,2 mm needles. You can see clearly (well more or less, blurry pic) that the H&S needle extends the nozzle a lot more than the Rotring one. That is one of the main reasons, why clogging is such a big issue on the H&S (and I guess many others). The Rotring does only extent a fraction of a millimeter and has a rounded tip, which you can clean with your fingertip while spraying. That said, there are other disadvantages to the Rotring's. First of all they are long out of production and you don't get spare parts anymore. They have a lot of seals which tend to leak, when they are not very well maintained. I hope that helps a little Happy new year to everyone. Cheers Rob

Generally I like the engineering of the H&S airbrushes (I have an Ultra and an Infinity with differently sized nozzles) The metal surfaces are very fine and easy to clean. What I don't like about is the tendency to clog very fast with pigmented Colours like acrylics. The tip of the needle is long and there is lots of space to clog for the pigments into the air stream. Other airbrushes are better here, like my old Rotrings which have other faults. Diluting the Colours to a perfect consistence and adjusting the perfect air pressure is very important with H&S, specially with Colours which don't mix well with flow enhancers. Cheers Rob

Gaz is right, the Gotha is looking great, but the engine is something else. Cheers Rob

Too much popcorn is not good for your health, take some beers to swallow properly . Cheers (and I mean it) Rob

Although it's almost a shame to cover your great PE work, I have to say the paint covered look is also very tempting. Can't wait for the finish line. Cheers Rob

Looks great, specially with the faded parts and reminds me a little of a board game with that huge Austrian Lozenge. Cheers Rob

Great build, painting and very dynamic setting with the blurry underground, nice, but I have to agree with Gus, the two seater looks wrong with the second guy sitting so close to the tail in such a small frame. Cheers Rob

Looks great Carl, this Junkers is so ahead of it's time, I'm always in search for the second wing. Cheers Rob

Did some interior work on my WNW Pfalz. The problem is I started the build many years ago and sometimes it's hard to understand what I did then. Anyway, for me it will be a learning experience. I applied internal steering lines for the first time (EZ-line) and used HGW belts, which had to be cut from the sheet. I fiddled the belts into the loops still on the PE-sheet , which helps a lot and cut the ends of the paper belts slightly triangular for easier threading into the loops. That is where I'm right now, fuselage about to get glued together. Cheers Rob

Like I said in the WIP section, outstanding. I would like to see some pics on a sun beaten concrete floor outside with flirring heat. Not easy to achieve in Scotland, but a Greek pilot would take your Corsair for real. Cheers Rob

Looks Greek to me Gus, as close to the scrapyard as can possibly be . In other words your Corsair looks great. I love the uneven and heavy weathered finish. The tonal variation in the camo is very rich and the whole appearance is supporting the tool like look of the Corsair, chapeau. Cheers Rob

Others try to keep their canopies clear , but great work on the dusted one, it fits perfectly. Cheers Rob

That's when a HE-162 gets a Mustang tail and Lamborghini wheels . I'm not overly organized on my bench, but could never work on yours. You must have a special talent for organizing the abyss of chaos. Good if you find your boys among the kits, prior to building a bench for them and where is the cat ? Cheers Rob

This is brilliant, the wood of the internal structure looks so, well, wood like. The modulation on the wings is great too. I'm sure you have seen this new WNW offering, including a figure of William Barker http://www.wingnutwings.com/ww/product?productid=3209 Maybe somebody have the figure in spare and is willing to sell or swap. Cheers Rob

I used Dymo tape lately as a sawing guideline for my Arado 234 surgeries. It worked ok, but I got some black residues left on the fuselage plastic and decided to apply a layer of Kabuki for protection on the clear parts under the Dymo. That way I had no problems with black sticky leftovers on the canopy. Cheers Rob