DocRob

I don't know, which ones you are looking for. Hannants (reliable), has three sets in stock in 48 scale. Hannants - Plastic model kits and accessories Cheers Rob

Nope, I thought about sculpting some, but found many pics without. I will spray the inside of the turrets black and that's it. Cheers Rob

She's starting to look seriously like a Kingfisher, Peter. There is so much nice work made by you, beginning with the detailed interior. For a kit this old, you let the aged plastic shine through your build. Cutting masks for all these panes is a pain, but using the template is a good idea, as the panes are rectangular and you don't risk to scratch the clear part with a blade going the wrong way. I like your decision, to go with a yellow wing scheme. Cheers Rob

Thank you Gary, there is some more work needed on them, but what an improvement over the original plastic. Cheers Rob

Thank you CANicoll and Kevin, I will try the tips from both of you, as I have some PE scissors and sharp bladed cutters. I don't think, the cardboard /glass combo will work with the ultra fine railings and I doubt my hand is stable enough to cut them loose with a scissor or cutter either, but for other parts this might work perfectly. I have a Japanese grindstone with two different grains, to re-sharpen my blades. Cheers Rob

Thank you Hubert, I think, cutting and sanding will come first and rebuilding and putty only second, thanks to many PE parts substituting the plastic. I wish, could be so confident like you. Until now, it's an experiment for me. Cheers Rob

Thanks Peter, but it might be the other way around . Cheers Rob

Progress is slow, even slower due to different issues. First, I discovered, there are only nine bollards included instead of sixteen. I mailed to the Eduard helpdesk and they reacted promptly and said they sent the rest, so i hope they will show up soon. I started with the turrets, where the manual is a it irritating, because there are three different types of turret assemblies out of four. There is some very delicate PE to add. For cutting PE, I use a sharp blade normally on a hard plastic tile, but with the superfine borders of the gun openings, I cut on a glass pane, because there is less deformation, but obviously it's not good for the service life of the blades. The second issue I ran in, where the plastic parts, which hold the barrels in the turret. They didn't fit well with the openings in the front shields and in one case adjustment wasn't enough and I had to make a new bed from drilled brass tube The basic equipment on the turrets is finished, except some very delicate railings, which I will add later, along with PE ladders. I started to build up the catapult for turret #3, but it is only fitted loosely for the picture. The front turrets: Cheers Rob

Thank you PW, I'm not sure about the future of this one either. I do like to challenge myself, but why tormenting . Earnestly, I had the plan to build a 1/350 ship for a long time with PE and extras, so I will try to stay in it. Cheers Rob

Never would have imagined the difference, Carl. I have to order some of these bolts. Cheers Rob

There is no Quinta set for the Mossie to my knowledge. Yahu panels look great, but not overly correct . With my recently finished Corsair build, I used a pimped version of the kit plastic and not the Yahu one I bought. The layout was mainly ok, but they use yellow color for the dials often and it doesn't look real. The other issue with Yahu is, it's only the IP and you have to match all the consoles to the Yahu's look, too limiting for me. Cheers Rob

Let's hope so Carl, like you, I haven't built any ships except wooden ones, where I feel more homely now than with this one. Maybe we should leave it to the next generation . All the extra goodies look good in this box. Yesterday, I checked a lot of historical pics, which luckily showed no blast bags, no untalented sculpting needed . I still have to see about the instructions Phil. Typical Eduard style, but they proved a bit vague in some aspects. ...and that's only the beginning Scott. elbow grease will be needed for the next steps. Yesterday, I checked the underwater accessories, like shafts, props and rudders and started thinking about a dio in the water . Luckily in this case the PE and printed parts are no AM Mike, as they were included in the kit. Without the stuff, I wouldn't have attempted the build. I read about the base kits shortcomings before, but was negatively surprised on inspection of the real thing. Cheers Rob

Somehow your heli skipped my attention Mark. Your cockpit looks absolutely great and I think it will be very visible and an eyecatcher in the end. Cheers Rob

Nice work on that dinosaur Gary. We had rubber bands, when I was a kid and I knew how to use them and not only to snap someone in the head in school . Cheers Rob

Nice Carl, good idea with the bolt heads, noted . Cheers Rob

I'll ha I'll have a peek at your color scheme, to get mine right for my USS Arizona build, albeit about a 100th smaller . Cheers Rob

Engine looks great, nice recovery Bill. I never liked Montex or other vinyl masks and have only one exotic set, where no other made one. I will use it as a cutting template for Kabuki tape. Luckily you could keep the canopy clear, even after stripping. Cheers Rob

That's true, I used 0,3mm or 0,5mm nickel tube to enhance my WNW Hansa Brandenburg build. Looked right and no painting needed. Cheers Rob

That base looks beautiful, Kevin. Cheers Rob

Fantastic choice, I nearly bought one of these. The Polish version is painted grey, if I remember correct, so for me a German wood and linen one would have been the way to go, too. The engine looks great, but painting of the one piece thing could be tempting (reason, why I haven't bought some for my WNW kits). Maybe I change my mind about that, when I see yours painted up. I built one of Lukgraph's 3D printed radials for my Fokker D.VIII and it was extremely nicely done. Cheers Rob

I have this one too, better suited for tubes, but had no pic at hand. Mitre for Circular Profiles, JLC Libor Kopeček P006 (scalemates.com) Cheers Rob

If you want to avoid decals for stencils and markings, these are great. A lot of extra work, but they blend in perfectly and with the colors you choose. De Havilland Mosquito Mk.VI, 1ManArmy 32DET049 (scalemates.com) I used a set for my recently finished Corsair build and they are absolutely gorgeous and no silvering with thickish Tamiya decal stencils. Besides the stencils, the sets provide basic markings. Cheers Rob

I used the same mask for the first time on my recently finished Corsair build for pre shading and liked working with it. I used metal sponge cleaners a lot before that and they have their advantages. You can tear them until you have the desired density, you can see individual panel while you spray for panel accentuation and you can work with them without touching the planes surface if desired ,so no bleeding can occur. The effect is not so harsh, so post shading is what it's best for. Cheers Rob

Bummer with the barrels, but maybe they look ok with a bit of drilling out the muzzles. The progress with the Schnellboot looks great though, love the detailing of the stanchions. I also use a sharp blade and carefully 'rolling' the tube under it, or I use my micro mitre from JLC with a razor saw. Great to produce your own turnbuckles for WW1 plane, as it has an adjustable length stop. Cheers Rob

HGW makes (made?) wet transfers for the Mossie, which I bought for mine along many other goodies. After some disappointments with these, I may give them another chance, when time comes. Cheers Rob