Peterpools

Been using Sprue Glue for decades and even way back in my model railroad days, we called it goop made with Testor's Liquid Cement and good styrene Hasegawa). Since I discovered Tamiya Extra Thin decades ago, the mix has changed, and I use two types: Tamiya Extra Thin and good styrene (Tamita or Hasegawa) Tamiya Extra Thin and Evergreen White Styrene - my preferred mix. I try to keep the mix about the consistency of thick yogurt, brush it on or use my filler spatula and try work it into seams and large gaps. Needs a good 24 hours to completely dry.

John Some mighty nice progress. Perfect paint work as always ...

Bill Nice progress and your IP looks so good.

Chris Nice progress on the Voodoo and looking good and working around raised panel lines is a delicate proposition. I'm finding the same with the Kingfisher and I'll scribe the raised P/L I wipe out. Same as you, just going slow and being as careful as I can.

Kriss The masking results do look good, but hand or air brushing seems to produce a more convincing cammo. Of course, hand work takes a lot more skill and not all of us can achieve that level of work - masks then become the only answer.

Fran Right with Martin. Thank you for the review and I'll be looking to add the Mitchell to my collection

Gaz Right with Harv - terrific build and finish

Chris Nice repair, always extra fun when things go so well and the IP is looking good

Thanks Phil .. back to the Future. back then I was also mainly a 72nd scale builder until I wandered into the Squadron Shop Hobby Shop in Syosset, NY. Things then changed forever.

Carl Awesome.

No idea but I'm also waiting and counting the days. Seems the Good Old USA is now the last to receive a lot of new kits, ho times have changed. 🙁

Gaz Looks fantastic but 2.5 hours - nothing speedy about this technique but the results are well worth the work and time 👍

Mike Congrats on the save -as it's always something. Geez, you're making fantastic progress and the Buffalo looks awesome for sure. getting closer and closer to the finishing line and I can't wait to see her with all the markings on.

🤞

Hubert Thats perfect - now I can buy a set of Yellow Wing decals from Sprue Brothers👍

Thank Mike, Very much appreciated. I too love the pre-war scheme but finding correct decals are nearly impossible and Yellow Wings Decals have closed their doors. The SB only has a set for the wheeled version, so the markings are incorrect, same with the kit decals.

Hubert Thanks for the info and I'm sure it's the wrong float but for the super old Monogram kit, just not worth trying to find the Edo float. BTW, I'm pretty sure Edo floats were manufactured here on Long Island back in the day.

MONOGRAM VOUGHT KINGFISHR 1/48 SCALE, ORIGINALLY RELEASED 1967 Finally underway and the Kingfisher was a kit I actually first built in the early 1970’s and is proof positive our memories of the Good Old Days, surely aren’t what they actually were. Back then, the Kingfisher was the state of the art and nicely detailed, some injector pin marks and mold seams. Who worried or even cared back then, it was a cool model and I hadn’t yet discovered, The Squadron Shop (where I saw how models should be built and bought my first air brush), IPMS or even using filler. Looking back, the Good Old days, were just that, a happy time with fond memories but seeing what was state of the art then to now, OMG, how the hobby has changed for the better. My kit is a later release 1993, with new decals and a small PE fret to add some much needed details that were not in the kit at all. So far, I’ve been busy cleaning up and removing thin mold seams, injector pin marks, sink marks and surprising not much flash at all. Next up, I started adding a lot of the various PE details to the cockpit side walls, gunners MG mount and ignition harness – with a lot more to go. The instructions are hand drawn, easy to follow and crystal clear. I’m in the process of cleaning up the wings, including the fit as the right hand top and bottom wing parts were a bit off in size and match. Needed to add the pitot tube now and fingers crossed I don’t snap it off along the way. The IP is now PE and will use the kit IP decal for the instrument faces to be glued to the back of the PE panel. The rear gunner’s MG ring now has a PE front detail with all the lightening holes – nice touch for sure. Sink holes were taken care of and am getting ready for priming and painting the interior. After some research on the subject, the interior should be a little darker then Interior green; close to a Bronze Green. See how it goes. The kit has very finely done raised panel lines and details and extra care needs to be given not to remove too many. The Old Light Bulb has gone off as I realized there aren’t any masking sets available and the kit has a boatload of glass. So all the masking is going to be old school – oh what fun. Interior clean up, prep and the sidewall PE added Exterior fuselage halves cleaned up, exhausts and gun sight drilled out (mighty tricky for sure) Wing fit is being worked on and the fine raised panel lines look very good. Flap and ailerons were cleaned up a bit more with a Tamiya P Cutter. Interior parts and small sub-assemblies done. Some PE added and does look good. While the ignition lines and header aren't accurate, they do look good and add a lot of interest.

Glad to see your GB is underway - like Carl said, progress is progress .. just work at your own pace and enjoy

Chris Seats look great and the IP Decals - ouch, that must have hurt for sure. If not much of the IP will be seen, just do some light dry brushing and move on, as there is so much to do.

Hubert Wishing you positive results with your medical appointments, business meetings and enjoy your family events.

Super work on rebuilding the stanchions they look terrific.

Scott Looking so good and like Phil, your build brings back some terrific memories.

Hubert WOW, fantastic detail work on the side consoles - looking mighty good.

Nice work on the front office. So good to see the 'oldies' back on the bench and coming to life again