HubertB

Objectively, considering what I have planned for December, I won’t do much modeling during this month…not that I am that good in GBs, on top Hubert

Hubert

Looks like the Sith version of R2D2 ... Hubert

About the same … the casino always wins 😂 Hubert

i must be a very rare breed. I spent 4 days in Las Vegas back in 1997, and did not play one cent ... (must have kept it for the stash ) Hubert

Well, I'd say you follow a real life logical sequence. Oil streaks can come at any time, whatever the state of the landing field. Plus they are more difficult to clean off than field-induced dirt and grime ... Good job overall, Gary 👍 ! Hubert

Micro-Mir have announced an Brantly B2, and furthermore in the « proper » 1/32 scale. Now we need a James Bond (Sean Connery) figure Hubert

Cool project Rog. I went through this process during the Covid, in 2020. Then we decided the area was too much exposed to humid and fresh oceanic winds … After one year, we put up the house for sale, sold it in less than 6 months, with a VERY good profit - which explains why I now have a nice car, but not the garage to park it into 😉. The idea was to start a new building project 120 Kim’s South-East of the first house. We bought a nice plot … but then « small details » like a war in the Eastern confines of Europe, an inflation shock, the lack of building materials in Portugal, manpower shortages in the construction sector, and the protracted authorization process in the new area had us change our mind this summer… So now we are buying a ready-built house, albeit with transformation works which will last a few months. 10 kms from where the plot was…The good news is we have resold the plot very well. Wishing you the best on this one Rog. Hubert

1) It’s the only He-100 kit in 1/32. This alone makes it worth it, if you want to build a He-100 kit. 2) Given the lack of pics (I know of only one of the IP and port side of the cockpit) as outlined by Gary, you can go to town on detailing the cockpit to your liking … Hubert

6 dead overall. Hubert

She’s looking good, Gary. I would never have thought I’d say that one day, but maybe you can try reinforcing the details by more wash ? If you can use a washable wash, then maybe you could reverse the effect if you do not like it ? Hubert

I have read mixed reports about it. Looks like a one-man operation, with cottage-industry type of decal printing. When I checked their « YIPEE » P-38 decal sheet, it was wrong in many aspects, including wrong typo, wrong representation of the Yipee name, etc. Hubert

I see, yes. But the issue is HGW rivets, even if it’s very small are in relief protruding from the kit’s surface, not recessed as IRL. This said, the area around the HGW rivets will appear darker than the silver-colored rivets … we are talking perceptions here, just like in figure painting… Maybe a darker wash along rivets lines would help creat the effect you are after ? Hubert

I got it in February. It’s a Porsche 981 Cayman GTS. Carrera Weiss outside with Carrera Rot interior leather trim … Hubert

I’ve read the way to make the HGW rivets more visible was to scrub the (thin) coat of paint with a scrubbing sponge (the kitchen type) Hubert

"Normal state" ? Hubert

Hey, that's unfair ! If women start applying the "selective" hearing tactic of men, we are truly lost guys 😨 ! Hubert ( whose wife was the one pushing him for buying his own "girl" )

You’ve got room for a third « girl », Jeff 👍 ! Hubert

SAC use an alloy made of (French scientific name to follow) merdium, which is softer than the original plastic, unfortunately, and will bow and flex. As a general rule, you can save money in AM stuff by avoiding SAC, especially in 1/32 … Hubert

Well I think the answer to this question is a flat « NO ». Any SAC stuff is actually weaker than the plastic part it’s molded on … Hubert

Lovely work … Hubert

Me 2 Hubert

What is sure is that it’s not an overnight process. We are talking years, or decades. The articles in Seaways were about the conservation and restoration of museum pieces, some of them in closed glass boxes, which probably compounded the problem. I an with you. I used to « file vertically » my kits a few months after completion, so the long term is not really an issue for me as well Hubert

I don’t want to rain your parade, Rob, but, IIRC, lead and CA don’t make for a durable couple… CA reduces lead-containing alloys to a white powder over time. At lest that’s what I read during my ship-modelling times. And I think I remember that the use of CA is forbidden by most museums worldwide, for that reason, in any restoration of vintage ship models, where metal castings used lead. I am the first one to forget about it, but white PVA glue is most often a very suitable replacement for CA when gluing metal to plastic. Hubert

I have a question. Knowing 1/32 is 3.375 times more volume than 1/48, is the prescription in inverse proportion for the adjuvant, i.e. 3.375 more adjuvant to successfully complete a 1/48 belt ? Inquiring minds want to know Hubert