GazzaS

Certainly ugly... but not beyond your skills, Kai.

Thank you! Yes... it's one you sent me.

Good luck getting your new job, Mark.

Nice work on the office!

Looking good!

Thank you for the info! The Tamiya clears are just too potent... or whatever the correct phrase is for too-color-intense. Truly, the best use I found for Tamiya orange is to "stain" the frame area of the base for my Großer Kurfürst base. It is true... if you mix blue and orange, you do get brown... but again... too strong.

Not yet. I spent a little modelling time with the StuG figures after work. Will try some stuff on my paint hack when I have a little time.

Thank you Kai! Were you wanting a picture of the Tamiya yellow on plain wood, or were you asking for pictures of the real thing? I have contemplated trying to find images of real cockpits from the period. However... here is the problem. Many stained woods darken with age. In 100 hundred plus years huge difference could occur. So, even if we found an un-restored Albatros... the color of the wood would be deceiving. Thank you. Phil! Much of the building was done over time. All I really accomplished this weekend was the upper-engine work. Rob, Thank you! I will look at the AK colors. FWIW... the color I want is that yellow stripe going right down the center of your test area in the upper zone as it appears. I am just about out of Tamiya clear yellow. So, it may be perfect time to try the AK.

Thank you, Guys! I didn't get as much done this weekend as I'd liked. A few things to do, then my lovely granddaughter spent the night Saturday. So, between taking the dog to the chiropractor and cuddles... I only had a few hours today. Today's work was mostly on the engine. There were a few sink marks to fill... hard to miss as the black CA shows the way: The exhaust and the strange looking piece above it are only pinned on. Interestingly this engine has spark plugs molded on. And... the rocker cover and springs are AM... so much more detailed than the kit rocker. I also lagged the magneto pipes after thinning them substantially. I used cigarette paper as the lagging tape. I worked on other interior components as well. I tried to get that scalloped look on the ammo boxes. It didn't quite pan out. Next time I might foil the boxes first and then try something else. Because Molotow chrome pen over Alclad doesn't cut the mustard. There is another problem I have. That problem is the color orange. Idfleig (Inspektion der Fliegertruppen - "Inspectorate of Flying Troops") directed that that yellow stain was to be used on the Albatros fighters. Remember all of those Dark wood Albatros profiles in books in the 80's? Learning about the effects of orthochromatic film made a lot of models and pictures instantly 'wrong'. But it is really hard to get right. Believe it or not, I made four different attempts on my paint hack. And I'm still not sure... but I want to try. This effort is very light brown followed by other steps. The brown is so light that it is hard to distinguish from pink. Then the wood grain was marked in with colored pencils... then blended with varying success. Then sprayed with Tamiya clear yellow thinned 50/50. Finally, a brown filter gives the results shown. Tamiya yellow is very powerful. Any hint of yellow in your base paint just makes it worse. Anyway... the weekend is over. Have a great modelling week, my friends!

Sorry Phil... didn't see you down here! I've done a couple cellar builds down here, too. So, I'll try to remember to scan this far down. Those PE screens look great, and I bet all of the resin detail will look sweet painted up. Strappin' in!

Kai, the intake and nose cone areas look so much nicer now. You're really making this bird look great. Pre-scribing the details gave me an idea to share.... I'll try to make this short as it may help both of us on future models: Some friends at my club AMMS Brisbane told me how to handle the notorious dorsal spine panel line on the Bf 109. They told me the easiest thing to do was to sand each side of the joint at a slight angle to widen the line at the top before closing it up. Then... once the fuselage halves are glued together, your perfect line is still there. Here is a small , simplified illustration. It just occurred to me that this technique might help with nose cones, tail cones, and also the front cowlings of some radial engined models. I think it might have been very helpful with the cowling on that PCM 190 I just finished. Actually... it might be useful anywhere a panel line coincides with a seam. Hopefully we'll see some color, soon!

That's quite a space to not-know-about. Good thing it wasn't occupied.

hahaha. I lack the funds for a trophy wife.

I prefer the short tail myself.

Thank you for the extra effort! Good to know!

Looks good!

Thank you, Peter!

Wow, Martin! Great work!

Exceptional painting, John!

Very nice job, Kai! Really love the paintwork on this one. Great Diorama! What is the symbol with the tiger and propeller?

Nice!

Neat and tidy!

Excellent detailing!

Very nice work!