Jump to content

BlrwestSiR

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    8,730

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by BlrwestSiR

  1. BlrwestSiR
    Yikes! That's a serious ack-ack hit! What about epoxy putty or Apoxie Sculpt? Those should be able to tackle that plus you can shape it with wet tools before it hardens and save on the sanding time.
  2. BlrwestSiR
    I can totally relate to this. Although my Carpet Monster is sick at the moment so not with me at the bench.
  3. BlrwestSiR
    Great to see the results of using the magnetic tumbler. It really makes quite the difference and probably a lot less work than doing it by hand. HLJ did a tour of the MFH factory and it's impressive to see how they cast the parts and craft the kits. It's from a few years ago but still great to see.
  4. BlrwestSiR
    Helps if I read.
  5. BlrwestSiR
    Nice subject John. Are you using the Trumpeter kit or the newer Revell one?
  6. BlrwestSiR
    That's impressive! Wouldn't have thought of that detail.
  7. BlrwestSiR
    I think I maybe wash the Beat once every other year. The roof doesn't seal that well against the windows so getting it wet means water leaks into the cabin. It sits under a cover most of the time so doesn't get dirty thankfully.
  8. BlrwestSiR
    Thanks Gus! Definitely a lot of parts in this build. Part of it is all the moving bits and the way they've made it so you don't need to mask anything if you paint it.
  9. BlrwestSiR
    That's shiny Jeff.
  10. BlrwestSiR
    Sadly so easily true. At least if you believe all the videos out there.
  11. BlrwestSiR
    @ScottsGT, avert your eyes!!!
  12. BlrwestSiR
    He does, doesn't he? The Cutlass is looking great.
  13. BlrwestSiR
    Looking at the Eduard page, the B/D and the C sets look similar except for the colour. https://www.eduard.com/index.php?lang=1&currency=2&mnid=&anid=&listtype=search&searchparam=T-28&cl=search&tpl=&fnc=executefilter&attrfilter[]=&attrfilter[17]=1%2F32 The B/D is listed as discontinued which may explain the lack of availability.
  14. BlrwestSiR
    Hip joint is next. Followed by a pile of bits to make the upper legs. One section done with the parts for the second beside it. Then all the outer armour sections. Everything is trimmed and ready for post shading and touch ups which I'll do today.
  15. BlrwestSiR
    More parts for the feet. I cut them from the sprue, trim and sand them and then do touchup painting before assembly. The parts have too many layers to do painting after assembly. Bandai include some segmented metal chains for added detail. First completed foot.
  16. BlrwestSiR
    It's leg time. Starting at the bottom with the feet. First up was this but which I don't know what you'd call the corresponding but of human anatomy. The upper foot area near the ankle.
  17. BlrwestSiR
    Those look very nice indeed Chris. I have some of the Eduard middles and the one I don't like about them is they cast the fins integral with the middle body but you then have a sizable casting lug to cut off. I ended up breaking a few of the fins off doing so. The separations on the Reskit ones make much more sense from that point. Carl
  18. BlrwestSiR
    I have a number of Dspaie's tools as well. The only one I have been slightly disappointed with us their stainless T-square. It's nicely made but is two parts that you super glue together. That took me by surprise. Hopefully it stays together. They also make paint which I have some but haven't tried yet.
  19. BlrwestSiR
    Paul, I use it over a lacquer base coat. It can be either a clear lacquer or just paint. Here's an example from my Millennium Falcon build. Before the X20A: After: Like you did, I left it alone to dry. They're pretty soft and easily tear if you try to move it. Just to be sure, it's the one with the white cap for acrylic paint. .
  20. BlrwestSiR
    Nice works there Paul. For really stubborn decals, my weapon of last resort is Tamiya X20A thinner. It works but you have to careful using it as things can go wrong very quickly. If you've got a lacquer or enamel base, then it can work miracles.
  21. BlrwestSiR
    Thanks Martin! The plain white would have been just too stark. I'm planning on doing some washes as well to further highlight some of the details that are hard to see.
  22. BlrwestSiR
    It seems I missed a couple parts of the armour that go around the forearms as well as some trim in yellow for the shoulders. These were duly painted. Then installed. Next up was the hands. Each ad previously mentioned had individual fingers and thumbs with full articulation. They were then snapped into place on the arms. Peace out! Everything 's A-OK!
  23. BlrwestSiR
    Time for some actual assembly. First up, I got the arms assembled to the point where they matched. Then I started on the armour sections. Inner side to the shoulder armour. Inspection by the carpet (lap really) monster. Then the arms with the first set of armour bits on. For the paint job, I did some post shading to add some depth and break up all the white.
  24. BlrwestSiR
    Here's some of the sprues getting painted. Bandai groups all the same coloured sprues together when number them which makes it easier to find stuff. As posted in the 'What's on your bench?" thread, here's one sprue where Bandai manages to mould moving parts in a single piece. The fingers can all bend at the individual digits. Here's the wrist mount. Removed from the sprue, you can see the articulation possible.
  25. BlrwestSiR
    Ok, here's probably my favourite mecha from the Gundam universe. It's the A.E.U.G. version of the RX-178 Gundam MkII. As part of Bandai's Perfect Grade series of kits, it's in 1/60 and has the most moving features ("gimmicks" they like to call them,) in the kit. Also the highest price tag. This one came out in 2001 and has been lurking in my stash since about that time. Here's the box. It's about as big as one of Tamiya's 1/32 jet kits so a decent size. Most sprues are moulded in colour so it could be built OOB without paint. In fact there's a subset of Gundam builders who do exactly that. For the rest of us, Mr Color makes matched paints in both acrylic and lacquer. Shortly after I picked up the kit, I started on building the kit but only got as far as the frame for the arms. Time to pick up from there. First thing was airbrushing all the parts in their respective colours. There's more but these are the ones I needed to finish the arms.
×
×
  • Create New...