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Playing in the Sandbox Group Build Sept 1, 2024 - Jn 1, 2025

Mengnut Wings Fokker Dr. 1


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This is my take on the Meng 1/32nd Fokker Dr. 1

I would like to dedicate this build to all the men and women at Wingnut Wings who found themselves without gainful employment after WnWs closed their doors. This kit has WnWs written all over it but unfortunately never made it to market under their banner so I’m very thankful that Meng decided to bring it in to production.

I’ve started with the engine but unfortunately didn’t take any pics during it’s assembly. I added detail to the rocker arms, replaced the spark plugs with Taurus Models items, replaced the push rods with copper wires to give them a more scale like appearance, and added the spark plug wires using EZ Line. The engine was primered and then painted Alclad II Steel with the induction pipes done in Alclad II Copper. The engine was then given a wash of Tamiya Flat Black heavily diluted with Future to help bring out all that wonderful detail.

Cheers,

Wolf

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The engine is looking great, with the beautiful metal shades and added detail. I have only the Roden kit in stash along with some goodies. I may buy a second Lukgraph engine for the DR I, the first was used in the Mikro Mir Fokker D.VIII and it's a splendid piece of 3D printing. 
The Mingweng engine doesn't need a substitute it seems, just the updates you added.

Cheers Rob

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I’m looking forward to seeing this come together. I’ve heard the Meng plastic is much softer than Wingnut’s plastic, and that Meng didn’t do as Wingnut did and spend the extra time needed to clean up the molds and remove small imperfections. 

Personally, I haven’t bought this kit, what with all the rumors of how it came about, but their larger scale version may be a go for me.

 

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21 hours ago, Kaireckstadt said:

Great start and beautiful engine!

I only have one in my stash with a bust of Richthofen.

Which one do you have and which livery will you build? 

Thank-you Sir!

That is the same kit I have with von Richthofen’s bust. I am going to build the Baron’s plane with the upper wing surface, wheels, struts, a portion of the upper fuselage and tail in red. 127/17. I’ll be using Aviattic’s aged streaked varnish decals. I ordered them before Aviattic released specific decals for this aircraft so it may not be 100% accurate but I wasn’t going to go to the expense of buying another decal sheet. 
 

Cheers,

Wolf

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20 hours ago, Peterpools said:

Wolf

Awesome start and the engine has your touch all over it. Looking so good

Keep ‘em comin

Peter

Thanks for checking’ in Peter! Always a pleasure hearing from you.

Hopefully I’ll do this kit justice.

Cheers,

Wolf

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15 hours ago, DocRob said:

The engine is looking great, with the beautiful metal shades and added detail. I have only the Roden kit in stash along with some goodies. I may buy a second Lukgraph engine for the DR I, the first was used in the Mikro Mir Fokker D.VIII and it's a splendid piece of 3D printing. 
The Mingweng engine doesn't need a substitute it seems, just the updates you added.

Cheers Rob

Thank-you Rob,

The kit engine is beautifully moulded and definitely doesn’t need replacing. Especially when you consider most of it will be hidden behind the cowling. You won’t even get to see the back of it unless you turn the model upside down.

Cheers,

Wolf

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3 hours ago, Clunkmeister said:

I’m looking forward to seeing this come together. I’ve heard the Meng plastic is much softer than Wingnut’s plastic, and that Meng didn’t do as Wingnut did and spend the extra time needed to clean up the molds and remove small imperfections. 

Personally, I haven’t bought this kit, what with all the rumors of how it came about, but their larger scale version may be a go for me.

 

Hey Ernie, good to hear from you!

Meng’s plastic is a bit softer but not by much so it really isn’t an issue. You just have to be a little more careful when removing parts from the spruces. I use a fine razor saw with very little issues. There are a few small imperfections in the moldings. The most notable are at the bottom of the fuselage in line with the ground handling loops. Nothing a bit of sanding and a splash of Mr. Surfacer 500 can’t fix. All three Wings have a slight bow but that’s easily fixed by dunking them in hot water for a few minutes and then manually manipulating them straight. All in all there’s not that much there to detract from the kit and for it to deserve a bad wrap. What is there definitely shows it comes from the WnWs stable. However Meng’s instructions are a far cry from what Wingnut Wing’s gave us and I consider them adequate at best. There’s also the small matter of the broken cockpit coating but that again should be easily rectified.

What you get in the Meng, warts and all, 1/32nd scale kit certainly shouldn’t dissuade anyone from getting it. Consider that you’re also getting the F.1, the early and the late Dr.1 all in one box!

From what I understand, the 1/24th kit was being developed by WnWs as well so it’s not entirely a Meng offering either.

Cheers,

Wolf

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With the engine complete I started in on the cockpit and again it’s beautifully detailed. I decided to make a few small modifications though but certainly nothing too drastic. Just enough to add my own touch to the build. The accompanying photos and the notes inscribed within should show what I’ve done. The tachometer, that sits just below the ammunition container, has a kit supplied decal face while others were replaced with more accurate ones by Airscale.

Cheers,

Wolf

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On 6/21/2021 at 10:32 PM, GazzaS said:

Some nice mods, Wolf.  I don't think I've ever had the pleasure of watching a complete build by you.  Looks like it should be interesting.

Thanks Gary,

Unfortunately I tend to start more builds than I finish but this one won’t fall in to that category. I’m absolutely determined to see this one all the way through.

Cheers,

Wolf

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On 6/21/2021 at 11:12 PM, Peterpools said:

Wolf

Just love your ‘personal touches’ ... the added details are amazing.  :popcorn:

Keep ‘em comin

Peter

Much appreciated Peter,

 I’ll keep ‘em comin’ as quickly as I can.

Cheers,

Wolf

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The cockpit floor has been finished and I’ve started adding some of the control lines for the rudder, elevators, and ailerons. I’m using 2lb (or in metric, line for little fish) fishing line and Bob’s Buckles micro tubing. The tubing I find absolutely essential (for me anyways)for securing the fishing line to the column and rudder pedals. The wood grain is decal material and I used 4 small rivets from Top Studio to represent fasteners securing the plywood floor to the metal tubular frame. One detail that stood out to me was the compass is moulded within it’s gimbal at an angle so that it sits level with the aircraft on the ground! Way to go WnWs! That’s attention to detail. The compass face is from Airscale as is the brass bezel. The Airscale decal was more detailed than the kit decal.

Cheers,

Wolf

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Everything looks nice, Wolf.  The decal floor and all came out very sharply.  I'm curious about your usage of Bob's Buckles.  I love them myself, but have never used the tubing without the eyelet...   hate to be a pita...   but just how do you do it?

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21 hours ago, GazzaS said:

Everything looks nice, Wolf.  The decal floor and all came out very sharply.  I'm curious about your usage of Bob's Buckles.  I love them myself, but have never used the tubing without the eyelet...   hate to be a pita...   but just how do you do it?

Easy Peasy Gary,

Say you’re attaching a length of monofilament thread or fishing line to an elevator control horn. I use a sharp #11 blade to put a small indentation on the side of the control horn near the top. That gives me a pilot hole to keep my drill bit from wandering. I use a 0.0075 drill bit to drill the hole which is a good size for 2lb fishing line to go through. I often follow the 0.0075 bit with a 0.0095 bit to enlarge the hole to make threading the line through a bit easier. Slip one of Bob’s Buckles tubing on to a length of your line and then feed the line through the hole in the control horn. Then pass the end of the monofilament line around so that you can feed the line back in to the tube essentially forming a loop. Make sure the line goes all the way through the tube so you can grab both lengths. Then slide the tubing up to tighten the loop up to the control horn but not too tight. You want the line to be able to move at the control horn so the angle of the line is natural when securing the other end wherever it’s supposed to go. Add a small drop of extra thin CA to the horn side of the tube and capillary action will flow the CA through the tube and secure the line firmly within the tube. Cut off the excess monofilament line and Bob’s yer Uncle. Sorry, bad pun! I add the CA to the horn side of the tube as it makes trimming the unwanted end of the line as close to the tubing as possible much easier with my Tamiya decal scissors.

I hope that all makes sense.

Cheers,

Wolf

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12 hours ago, Peterpools said:

Wolf

I'm holding you to finishing this beauty .. beautiful work on the office.

Keep 'em comin

Peter

Hey Peter,

I’m holding you to holding me to finishing this one, LOL!

Cheers,

Wolf

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1 hour ago, Wolf Buddee said:

Easy Peasy Gary,

Say you’re attaching a length of monofilament thread or fishing line to an elevator control horn. I use a sharp #11 blade to put a small indentation on the side of the control horn near the top. That gives me a pilot hole to keep my drill bit from wandering. I use a 0.0075 drill bit to drill the hole which is a good size for 2lb fishing line to go through. I often follow the 0.0075 bit with a 0.0095 bit to enlarge the hole to make threading the line through a bit easier. Slip one of Bob’s Buckles tubing on to a length of your line and then feed the line through the hole in the control horn. Then pass the end of the monofilament line around so that you can feed the line back in to the tube essentially forming a loop. Make sure the line goes all the way through the tube so you can grab both lengths. Then slide the tubing up to tighten the loop up to the control horn but not too tight. You want the line to be able to move at the control horn so the angle of the line is natural when securing the other end wherever it’s supposed to go. Add a small drop of extra thin CA to the horn side of the tube and capillary action will flow the CA through the tube and secure the line firmly within the tube. Cut off the excess monofilament line and Bob’s yer Uncle. Sorry, bad pun! I add the CA to the horn side of the tube as it makes trimming the unwanted end of the line as close to the tubing as possible much easier with my Tamiya decal scissors.

I hope that all makes sense.

Cheers,

Wolf

That make's perfect sense, Wolf!  Thank you!  I'll have to find some even finer bits than I have.   The smallest I have is .0137inch or .35mm.

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