Peterpools Posted July 10, 2021 Share Posted July 10, 2021 Mike Any pics? Keep ‘em comin Peter 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolf Buddee Posted July 18, 2021 Author Share Posted July 18, 2021 Evening all or good morning to those of you where my today is already your tomorrow. I’ve gotten a little bit further on the Fokker. I decided to work on the Spandau MGs and assembled them using Master barrels and cooling jackets. I really like their stuff. The assemblies were sprayed with Tamiya’s Fine White primer lacquer paint decanted from their spray can. The MGs were then sprayed with Gunze Mr. Metal Dark Iron. The ammo feed chutes and empty cartridge chutes were painted with Alclad II Dark Aluminum. The ammo belts were done with Mr. Metal Polished Brass and the fabric belt was covered with a thin strip of Aviattic’s bleached linen decal. Everything was given a black wash and then the MGs were burnished with MIGs gunmetal powder. I dry brushed the guns with Mr. Metal Stainless to highlight the cocking mechanisms on the breeches of the MGs. I also got the wing, cabane, landing gear, and engine cowling painted. I originally mixed Tamiya’s acrylic paint according to the WnW’s instructions for the Dr.1 painting guide provided in their Albatross DV Red Baron kit set. However, I didn’t like the way the paint sprayed or covered so I went back to my fail safe Tamiya lacquers. I used TS-8 Italian Red and TS-11 Maroon to get the colour I wanted and was much happier with the result. After applying the strut data decals everything was sprayed with Tamiya’s semi-gloss clear. I also started in on the wings and they were, again, primer coated with white and the sprayed with Tamiya Racing White which is a creamy white. It lays down extremely smooth and very glossy in preparation for Aviattic’s linen effect decals specifically for the Dr.1. Starting on the bottom surfaces of the wings the decals laid down beautifully. I worked the water out from underneath the decals, first with a large paint brush, and then a damp Q-tip to ensure I wouldn’t have any issues with slivering. Areas where the decals had to conform over the outer wing strut attachment brackets were covered with Solvaset decal softener and worked with heat from a hair dryer. Where some slivering did occur I poked the decal with the tip of a new #11 blade and reapplied the Solvaset. Problem solved. So far so good……… Cheers, Wolf 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harv Posted July 18, 2021 Share Posted July 18, 2021 And pics ???....harv 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peterpools Posted July 18, 2021 Share Posted July 18, 2021 Wolf superb work on the Spandau’s Cooling jackets and ammo chutes jumped right out at me - they look awesome . Paint work and lower wing decals are simply flawless. Keep ‘em comin Peter 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HubertB Posted July 18, 2021 Share Posted July 18, 2021 On 7/8/2021 at 5:51 AM, Martinnfb said: Amazing attention to detail my friend. Just mind boggling. I hate you cheers M. What Martin said ! Hubert 2 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaireckstadt Posted July 18, 2021 Share Posted July 18, 2021 Thanks for the next amazing part of the building and painting instructions! Lovely and simply perfect work and documentation! 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bomber_County Posted July 18, 2021 Share Posted July 18, 2021 Wolf, just catching up with everyone’s progress, it’s always a pleasure to watch your projects, amazingly clean and precise work, as the guys said dead jealous…. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolf Buddee Posted July 19, 2021 Author Share Posted July 19, 2021 Thanks Peter, Hubert, Kai, and Phil! On 7/17/2021 at 7:47 PM, harv said: And pics ???....harv The pics are right there above your post Harv. Not sure how you missed ‘em? Anyways, a few more decals added and some paint work done on the fuselage in preparation for Aviattic’s streaked linen decals for the fuselage. The metal panels for the upper fuselage spanning the middle wing were painted with Aeromaster’s RLM 83 Dark Green. So we’re the panels on the fuselage below the upper ones. The upper wing was painted in red with a mix of Tamiya’s TS-8 Italian Red and TS-11 Maroon. The areas that had previously been a white background for the upper wing crosses were masked off and sprayed a lighter version of the red. This was done to simulate the translucency of the red once the white background had been repainted. The same was done on the fuselage sides where the white background had been for the fuselage crosses. In the photos, the red portion of the upper fuselage in front of the tail planes looks to be a different colour red as well, but I believe it’s my lighting as it’s not as noticeable with the naked eye. By now my paint scheme is and pilot of the aircraft is becoming rather obvious. Since I bought these decals Aviattic has released a dedicated set for this aircraft but I’m not going to spend the money on a second set of decals. Mine will look a little bit different in the end but I’m Ok with that. Hopefully I’ll have more to show soon as much of what comes next is streaked linen decal application. Cheers, Wolf 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martinnfb Posted July 19, 2021 Share Posted July 19, 2021 Judging by the colours it has to be Henry Dunant .... ( moment of awkward silence) ..., have no idea, but I like the colours. Very clean work my friend , very clean. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peterpools Posted July 19, 2021 Share Posted July 19, 2021 Wolf Brilliant work as always. All that counts is the model meets your vision and you’re pleased with the build. If it should fall short, no worries, I’ll gladly pay for the shipping and the Dr1 can reside front and center in my display case.🥇 Keep ‘em comin Peter 2 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaireckstadt Posted July 19, 2021 Share Posted July 19, 2021 Same applies to me Wolf: if you don’t like it in the end you can send it to me and it will get a nice place on one of my shelves… To be honest: great paintjob so far. The red looks spot on and your attention to detail painting is stunning. Didn‘t know that Aviattic is offering decals for streaked linen. They are awesome. In the end this will be a stunning looking colorful bird! Looking forward to seeing the next update! 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peterpools Posted July 19, 2021 Share Posted July 19, 2021 Kai Aviattic seems to be the go to company for WWI and maybe biplanes as well. Need to fly over and take a gander. Keep 'em comin Peter 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DocRob Posted July 19, 2021 Share Posted July 19, 2021 Great job on painting, decaling and detailing Wolf. I've used Tamiya X-2 gloss white as a base for Aviattic decals and that worked very well too. There was no need for further gloss coating and I used Tamiya Smoke for enhancing the depth. I just started to use Tamiya lacquers and they spray even better. I will give them a try, with my next WWI plane. Lacquer racing white is available in a jar, no need for decanting. When I used Master brass barrels for the 08/15's, I burnished the brass and got a very convincing finish, with a non thickness, instead of paint and primer layers. The only downturn is, that you have to spray the plastic or resin parts in an equal color, which is often not too easy to mix. Your build is exceptional and a great tutorial to follow. Cheers Rob 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harv Posted July 19, 2021 Share Posted July 19, 2021 Hmmmm, when I first viewed your post, the pics weren't there. Really good work my friend !..... harv 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolf Buddee Posted July 20, 2021 Author Share Posted July 20, 2021 13 hours ago, DocRob said: Great job on painting, decaling and detailing Wolf. I've used Tamiya X-2 gloss white as a base for Aviattic decals and that worked very well too. There was no need for further gloss coating and I used Tamiya Smoke for enhancing the depth. I just started to use Tamiya lacquers and they spray even better. I will give them a try, with my next WWI plane. Lacquer racing white is available in a jar, no need for decanting. When I used Master brass barrels for the 08/15's, I burnished the brass and got a very convincing finish, with a non thickness, instead of paint and primer layers. The only downturn is, that you have to spray the plastic or resin parts in an equal color, which is often not too easy to mix. Your build is exceptional and a great tutorial to follow. Cheers Rob Hi Rob, I have some of the blackening agent as well but have never found it to do the job 100% so primer and paint works best for me. The trick, of course, is to apply the primer and paint in thin coats to avoid any heavy paint build up. Cheers, Wolf 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolf Buddee Posted July 20, 2021 Author Share Posted July 20, 2021 11 hours ago, harv said: Hmmmm, when I first viewed your post, the pics weren't there. Really good work my friend !..... harv Hey Harv, Just havin’ some fun with you! You probably started replying before I had finished posting. Nonetheless your checking in and leaving a comment is always appreciated. Give Bev a big hug from me. If she doesn’t like it tell her it was your idea! Cheers, Wolf 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DocRob Posted July 20, 2021 Share Posted July 20, 2021 5 hours ago, Wolf Buddee said: Hi Rob, I have some of the blackening agent as well but have never found it to do the job 100% so primer and paint works best for me. The trick, of course, is to apply the primer and paint in thin coats to avoid any heavy paint build up. Hi Wolf, burnishing brass has it's difficulties, that's true. The parts have to be fat free and CA-free. I soak the parts only for some 20 seconds in the bath and move them with a tweezer, because of the developing gas bubbles, there could arise non blackened areas, if not moved properly. I stop the process with dipping the parts in clear water. I really like the very matte, brownish-black effect scale wise and carefully use some steel pigments from Uschi van der Rosten for a bit of highlighting. Cheers Rob 5 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolf Buddee Posted July 24, 2021 Author Share Posted July 24, 2021 Decals, decals, and more decals,…….. The Aviattic streaked linen decals have been applied to the upper fuselage and sides. The blue underside decals were applied first though. The tricky part was cutting the Aviattic decals to match the red painted areas so there was no overlap. The Aviattic decals I bought were full length for the fuselage. They have since released a dedicated set for this aircraft which includes the red areas on the fuselage and wings. Of course I bought early and had to do it the hard way. The fuselage and rudder crosses were the Meng kit decals. The kit decals are actually very nice, lay down well, and have minimal carrier film. Thumbs up to Meng! The decal instructions tell you to remove the center of the round green dot on the fuselage side decals to accommodate the air induction pipes and that was done using my Waldron punch and die set. I also removed all the moulded on Fokker cowl nuts and drilled holes to accommodate Taurus Model’s Fokker Cowl Nuts. They are resin cast, very small, and come as two parts representing the stud and the nut separately. Once assembled and painted I glued them in to their holes securing them with a drop of semi-gloss clear acrylic paint. You can see them in place on the dark green metal areas below where the middle wing will mount. I think they add a very nice extra touch of detail rather than the kit moulded lumps. Another small detail in the kit is the steel cable and brackets that secure the engine cowling to the firewall. It’s moulded very fine and I didn’t see it was there until I had applied primer. It was way too fine to attempt painting it so I used a silver stripe decal from Fantasy Printshop. The stripes on the sheet were too wide so I covered one of the strip decals with Microscale decal film and then trimmed the decal with (this is very important) a brand new #11 blade. The decal film ensured that the decal wouldn’t break up when dipped in water and the new #11 blade makes sure that the cut is very clean with no tearing. The decal was then applied to the circumference of the firewall and the retainers were painted with a sharp tipped Tamiya paint brush. This is the first time I’ve seen this detail provided on a Dr. 1 kit so Kudos to Wingnut Wings! Lots more to go but I’m gettin’ there. Cheers, Wolf 5 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peterpools Posted July 24, 2021 Share Posted July 24, 2021 Wolf Insane work for sure and isn't that always the case - the manufacturer (Aviattic) releases a dedicated set after you worked your magic with the their standard set. Perfect work on the decals. Cowl nuts - I not sure I can actually see them -and if I ever tried anything so delicate, the parts would have been lost to the carpet monster the second Iwould have attempted to remove them from the casting fret. Keep 'em comin Peter 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaireckstadt Posted July 24, 2021 Share Posted July 24, 2021 Great work (and surgery) on the decals. Great to hear that the kit is so well detailed! Your work simply looks stunning! Love it! Can‘t wait to see your next update ! 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pentel_5 Posted July 29, 2021 Share Posted July 29, 2021 I am really hooked. Amazing work!! Congratulations!! 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolf Buddee Posted July 31, 2021 Author Share Posted July 31, 2021 On 7/24/2021 at 9:37 AM, Kaireckstadt said: Great work (and surgery) on the decals. Great to hear that the kit is so well detailed! Your work simply looks stunning! Love it! Can‘t wait to see your next update ! Thank-you Kai, My next update will show that I ran into some unexpected trouble with my build. Nothing too serious but annoying just the same. Cheers, Wolf 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolf Buddee Posted July 31, 2021 Author Share Posted July 31, 2021 On 7/29/2021 at 4:13 AM, pentel_5 said: I am really hooked. Amazing work!! Congratulations!! Thank-you Sir! Cheers, Wolf 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolf Buddee Posted July 31, 2021 Author Share Posted July 31, 2021 More has been done on the the little Fokker, The tailplanes and rudder have been attached and the control wires have been rigged. This was a fairly easy task using 2lb fishing line and Bob’s Buckles brass tubing. The undercarriage assembly has been dry fitted as well with no foreseeable problems evident. Just the bracing wires to add to keep it from being so wobbly. The next step was adding the lower and center wing. The lower wing was straight forward but the center wing presented a bit of a challenge. The rear mount assembly for the MGs needs to be glued to the underside of the cockpit coaming. Once it’s located the center wing is glued to the fuselage with the rear mount assembly supposed to fit between two locations on the fuselage framing. There is only one way the rear MG mount can be fitted and it’s quite obvious which way if goes. Mine however didn’t fit where it was supposed to when dry fitting the centre wing in place. It wasn’t even close!??????? I had to remove it from the underside of the coaming and then dry fitting it where it was supposed to go revealed more problems. With the mount assembly fit where it belongs the left MG assembly fit perfectly but not so much for the right MG. The mount assembly forced the right MG to sit too far over to the right and it made fitting the right portion of the upper cowling (that was broken off in the kit) impossible to align. To make things even more interesting the right MG’s ammunition feed chute wouldn’t locate in to it’s hole in the fuselage. That turned out to be an easy fix as the hole was partially obstructed with glue. That was cleaned out and one problem solved. The other issue was that the right MG also didn’t align properly on it’s rear mount and sat too low at the back compared to the left MG. I therefore decided that surgery was going to be necessary and dissected the kit mount assembly to make if fully adjustable and have it fit the MGs. I really should have taken a photo of the mount assembly before I cut it apart. The two vertical pieces at each end of the mount assembly were glued to the fuselage framing. Then the lower brackets were drilled out so they could slide from side to side and also allow the vertical supports that fit to the back of the MGs to be height adjustable. This new assembly was glued in to position and the MGs attached and correctly oriented. Then the rear mounts were slid in to position and glued in to their places on the rear of the MGs. The excess lengths of the vertical supports were trimmed off and their paintwork touched up. I still don’t have a clue as to what or where I went wrong with the rear mounts but it’s all fixed now if not a bit puzzling and annoying. So far, though, the only fit problem I’ve encountered. With the lower and centre wing, their inter-plane struts, and the cabane struts added it was time to rig the bracing wires for the cabane struts and the undercarriage assembly. These were made, once again using 2lb fishing line, Bob’s Buckles tubing, and Gaspatch turnbuckles. As a forewarning though, dry fit the inter-plane struts to their locations as mine were a very tight fit without any layer of paint to interfere. A bit of filing and sanding ensued they were still a snug fit but at least they now fit in to the wings! Now here is why I recommend not gluing the engine firewall to the fuselage before getting to this step. The holes where the bracing wires fit into the fuselage were drilled all the way through so I could pull and secure them from the inside. Once fed through the fuselage the lines were pulled tight and then permanently affixed with drops of extra thin CA. No muss, no fuss, and no excess CA visible anywhere with no extra tensioning required. Way too easy eh? The upper cabane strut bracing wires will be pulled tight once the top wing has been added. Before that happens the Taurus Models Fokker Cowl Nuts are placed within their pre-drilled holes and secured with a drop of acrylic semi-gloss paint. They’re too small to affix any other way without making a mess (at least for me) and the process is just too simple. The sharp eyed among you will also notice that the crash pad assembly mounted to the back of the MGs has been replaced with the correct configuration. I noticed I’d used the wrong one when I looked again at the photos of this particular plane on the WnWs website. We’re getting close to the end now………………. Cheers, Wolf 6 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martinnfb Posted July 31, 2021 Share Posted July 31, 2021 Spectacular show Wolf, half of it I won't be able to see, the other half will be inhaled once I sneeze by your display cabinet. Nevertheless breath taking detail my friend. M. PS: stop using terms like " fairly easy task", it annoys the hell out of me 1 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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