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Playing in the Sandbox Group Build Sept 1, 2024 - Jn 1, 2025

Ford GT II - The Fast and the Novice - Tamiya 1/24


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The Ford GT got gloss coated today, after I had the feeling, the rather thick decal stripes will not settle any better, even if I dunk the body into a decal softener bath. I think the thickness is necessary for opaqueness, but if I had known that before, I would have cut them in places where gaps are.
The Tamiya Clear LP9 seemed to lay down great, but I inspect that closely later, after drying. I first sprayed a very thin coat of the heavy thinned clear for achieving a fast drying time on the decals, because I wanted to reduce the reaction time between aggressive chemicals and decals. Then I sprayed two heavier coats after waiting for 15 minutes each time.

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Tamiya chose a clever way, to not supply PE-parts for the meshes. Instead, the used clear parts for six different openings in the body, which receive a net-decal each.
The transparent lights got colored with Tamiya clear orange and clear red. The clear orange got backed with Molotows chrome pen from the backside for better brightness.

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Cheers Rob

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1 hour ago, Kaireckstadt said:

The bodywork looks really nice as it should Rob! Awesome work!

Good trick with the clear orange and the Molotow Chrome! Will try that too on the position lights of my aircraft.

Muchas gracias Kai, interestingly the chrome is brighter on the side, were I painted with the Molotow pen. The glass side looks for not explainable reason more coarse, but only a little
On position lights, I used that technique too, sometimes. A lot of airplanes have clear covers over colored bulbs. If that's the case, I drill the clear part from the inside, where the bulb should be with a micro drill and fill the drilled hole with clear red, green or blue. The refraction in the clear plastic looks very realistic and if you paint the inner sides of the clear plastic silver, it is even brighter.

23 minutes ago, BlrwestSiR said:

Nice paint work on the body there Rob. 

Backing the clear with chrome is always a good idea. Makes them pop. 

Thanks Carl, sometimes good old silver is the better way to back the clears, especially with car classics. silver let the clear colors shine more even, where chrome is brighter.

Cheers Rob

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2 hours ago, Kaireckstadt said:

The bodywork looks really nice as it should Rob! Awesome work!

Good trick with the clear orange and the Molotow Chrome! Will try that too on the position lights of my aircraft.

 

I was thinking the same thing!Nice work Rob.I always wanted to the Porsche 910 67 Gulf Livery and the GT 40 from then "it was called racing":unworthy:

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Molotow clear pens surely have improved the lights on models.   Well done, Rob.

 

And it's certainly easier than using aluminum foil...  which works nicely when the foil sticks.

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13 hours ago, KevinM said:

I was thinking the same thing!Nice work Rob.I always wanted to the Porsche 910 67 Gulf Livery and the GT 40 from then "it was called racing":unworthy:

Thanks Kevin, The Gulf Porsche 917 is always a treat and yes the real Ford GT is far more iconic than it's new derivate, but it's a sufficient test dummy for different techniques and looks great in the display cabinet among some armor :D.

11 hours ago, GazzaS said:

Molotow clear pens surely have improved the lights on models.   Well done, Rob.

Thanks Gaz, I've used the chrome pens only a few times and I like them, when it comes to painting separated parts. For details on a body, there is always the risk of bleeding and therefore, I wouldn't use them for that.

Cheers Rob

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Amigos, I'm absolutely thrilled today, after 24h of drying time for the gloss coat, I couldn't wait any longer and polished the body with the three different coarsed Tamiya polishing compounds and bang, that's how it looked afterwards. I can tell you, that it's hard to capture it on pictures and it looks showroom mirroring to my real eye :icon_eek:. No more words, I'm flashed :D.

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Cheers Rob

 

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2 hours ago, harv said:

Shinny....harv:popcorn:

 

2 hours ago, Kaireckstadt said:

I‘m flashed too Rob! Perfect shiny surface! Stunning ! 

 

1 hour ago, HubertB said:

Blindingly good !

Gracias Hombres, after taking my sunglasses off, I hope,  will not spoil everything with spilled glue, when assembling the car :D.

Cheers Rob

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8 hours ago, GazzaS said:

Be-U-ti-FUL!

 

8 hours ago, Peterpools said:

Absolute;y and incredible finish .. gorgeous work. I suspect you're right concerning the thickness of the decal stripes and in the pics, they look superb as well.

Thank you Gentlemen, The Tamiya LP-9 Lacquer clear is great. I thinned it with almost 2/3 of thinner. It dries shiny and sprays very controllable, from protective misting with a slight grain first and then semi wet, which is enough for a gloss surface, without the risk of running noses.

Cheers Rob

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great work on the paint job.

I dondt know iff you have the tamiya wax?

Iff so use that for the finnish but afterwards where gloves when you touch the model for fingerprints.

 

Keep it up the good work

 

Mark

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3 minutes ago, mark31 said:

great work on the paint job.

I dondt know iff you have the tamiya wax?

Iff so use that for the finnish but afterwards where gloves when you touch the model for fingerprints.

Thank you Mark, I don't have the Tamiya wax, but will try to buy some. Even when the actual polished surface seems to be very durable, I use gloves to handle it.

Cheers Rob

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I started to assemble all the tiny bits and pieces to the body and there are quite a lot. You have to be very careful, to not spill glue to unwanted places, as there are lots of clear parts and of course the painted body. The front and  rear section got finished today. I really like the multi part LED projectors which painted, decaled and assembled under their clear covers, really look great.

Cheers Rob

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10 hours ago, Kaireckstadt said:

Great looking close-ups Rob. On these fotos one can really see how beautiful the shiny paintjob is. 
This kind of painting can also be used for airliners with their shiny white fuselages. 

 

7 hours ago, BlrwestSiR said:

Fantastic paint and polish job Rob. I wish some of mine came out that nicely. 

Gracias amigos, I'm really impressed by the Tamiya lacquer paints in general and even more with the blue metallic for the body, Many metallic paints are to grainy to look real, when sprayed, but the grain of Mica Blue is exceptional fine, which made this paintjob possible.
@Karl, I'm sure you can do it, i take, you build a lot more cars than me or is it only RC with transparent lexan bodies, painted from the inside? I may found my magic potion for car painting fast, with the help of you all and with the Tamiya lacquers and polishing compounds. Your input helped a lot to not leaving the right pass for the paintjob, less error more output :D.

Cheers Rob

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What is faster than the Ford GT amigos? Me building it :D. It took me only two very entertaining weeks along lots of construction working on the house. Now the new sea view terrace is almost ready and the Ford is ready to go.
The build was a bit like a good movie, where you ask yourself, how it could possibly come to the end that fast.
Construction was problem free and with your generous input the feared painting and polishing went well for my first serious car project. The only thing to have in mind is a proper process on building, painting and masking, to not corner yourself.

As this is definitely LS but no armor nor plane, I skip rfi-ing it and leave the pics of finished Ford right here. I may add some daylight pics later.

Cheers Rob

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