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Meng 1/24 Ford GT40


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Thanks Rob

I'm not sure why I am having issues with the Tamiya lacquers, could be they are closer to Model color requiring thing and I'm just not there. The Pure Blue and Blacks are thick and I've been thinning them 1 drop of paint to 1.5 drops of Self Leveling Thinner. Maybe I'll need to thin them even  more. I use either a .2 or .4 H&S Infinity Plus air brushes and have no problems air brushing the paint, but they just don't seem to be as smooth as I normally paint. Both MRP and Gravity Paints I shoot straight from the bottle with no issues at all.   

I did have a similar issue with Mr Color and needed to thin those paint 1 drop of paint to 2 drops of Self Leveling Thinner, so that might be the solution. I'll do some more testing and see what happens.

Keep 'em comin

Peter

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11 hours ago, Peterpools said:

I'm not sure why I am having issues with the Tamiya lacquers, could be they are closer to Model color requiring thing and I'm just not there. The Pure Blue and Blacks are thick and I've been thinning them 1 drop of paint to 1.5 drops of Self Leveling Thinner. Maybe I'll need to thin them even  more. I use either a .2 or .4 H&S Infinity Plus air brushes and have no problems air brushing the paint, but they just don't seem to be as smooth as I normally paint. Both MRP and Gravity Paints I shoot straight from the bottle with no issues at all.   

I did have a similar issue with Mr Color and needed to thin those paint 1 drop of paint to 2 drops of Self Leveling Thinner, so that might be the solution. I'll do some more testing and see what happens.

I think you need to thin them more Peter. I use a minimum of two parts Leveling Thinner to one part of LP, but go up to three to one, most times. The results are extremely fine. As a first coat, specially on decals, I mist only a bit of color/thinner mix on, let it dry in the airflow and then start serious spraying. I do that to reduce chances of bad influences of the LP's / thinner to base layers, pure plastic or decals. Works fine to me.

Cheers Rob

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This is certainly something out of the usual aircraft builds! I'm sure it will be a great looking model. I think the last car model I built was a "32 Ford jalopy way back in the 60's. :)

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Hi Rob

Yup, agreed and will be testing the Tamiya Lacquers again tonight and will thin them out at 1 drop paint to 2 drops thinner and maybe even more. Just can't be the only person on the planet who isn't doing cartwheels over them.

Keep 'em comin

Peter

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HI John

Absolutely loving the build and what a great change of pace ... no filler or sanding required. I might have tried a car kit back them as well and if I did, it surely didn't come out well.

Keep 'em comin

Peter

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1 hour ago, Peterpools said:

HI John

Absolutely loving the build and what a great change of pace ... no filler or sanding required. I might have tried a car kit back them as well and if I did, it surely didn't come out well.

Keep 'em comin

Peter

LOL Peter! If I remember correctly I painted the body of that car something like candy apple purple using a rattle can. At the time I thought it looked great! LOL:)

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11 hours ago, DocRob said:

I think you need to thin them more Peter. I use a minimum of two parts Leveling Thinner to one part of LP, but go up to three to one, most times. The results are extremely fine. As a first coat, specially on decals, I mist only a bit of color/thinner mix on, let it dry in the airflow and then start serious spraying. I do that to reduce chances of bad influences of the LP's / thinner to base layers, pure plastic or decals. Works fine to me.

Cheers Rob

Hi Rob

Just finished a short painting session shooting Tamiya LP-1  Gloss Black Lacquer increasing the dilution to at least 1;2 paint to thinner work perfectly and all the issues I was experiencing before, are now history. Much appreciated the help

Keep 'em comin

Peter 

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Kev

One awesome machine and what memories. I bought one for myself and my brother as a Lightening Deal from SB: $25 each.

I'll be working on my next update as I'm close to finishing the complete three interior areas and time to start working the the body paint.

Keep 'em comin

Peter

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Finishing the Interior.

Still plugging away and learning as I go. The front clip is done. The cockpit is also now complete with the additions of the harnesses and dash. Speaking of harnesses and seatbelts, the ones provided in the kit were tossed in the trash after about a half hour of pure frustration. I just can’t understand why Meng chose to use the felt like material with glue on one side, makes assembling a nightmare. I decided to double up some Tamiya take, cut on my Infinity Cutting Matt (one awesome tool I use nearly every day) and made new belts. I wish I had some textured ribbon but of course I didn’t, so this was the next best choice. They are in, painted and done, painted with Model Air Nato Black for a slight difference of black used for the seats.

The non-operating interior door panels hide the floor sill/fuel tanks but what it is, it is: done and finished.

The rear cockpit bulkhead/firewall is finished as well and has to be installed after the 427 engine otherwise the front end of the engine will not fit.

Here I made another classic mistake and without thinking, glued the intake manifold and cylinder the heads to the engine block and then installed the assembly onto the block. Of course, it didn’t dawn on me for hours, that I forgot to install the headers as I haven’t even painted them yet. Now after painting them with Alclad dark aluminum, getting them glued into place was a bit testy. I struggled for quite some time but managed to installed the headers, the exhausts, carb and the balance of the engine parts. All the remaining parts of the rear suspension was painted and installed and figuring out how this all went together wasn’t the easiest of jobs as the instructions were a huge letdown. Getting the engine installed squarely to the chassis was another fun filled adventure but that’s now done as well.

One tip for Meng: a bit more thought on the exhaust would have been welcomed. The exhausts are added as a separate part and the seam at the rear just past the mounting bracket is poor at best. What Meng should have done is mold the ends of the exhaust pipes as a separate part and added last and no seam. I had some fancy and fun filled seam removal to do and then repaint – not the best results but learning how to think ahead.

Next up:

It’s time to face the music and get to work on the three major parts of the body shell: front clip, rear clip and the bottom of the car.

Thanks for checking in

Peter

Note to self: before photographing - dust and clean the model

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Peter, the chassis is looking great.

Sometimes I wonder if manufacturers should call their manuals "destructions" rather than instructions they way they lay out the order that parts are supposed to go together. 

Carl

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Thanks Mike, much appreciated

So far the build has been a blast and as I become more "acquainted" with model cars again, I'm starting to get into the flow. I test fitted the body parts late last night, fit is very good and today starts the body work.

Keep 'em comin

Peter

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Hi Carl

Right with you - Meng has a nice kit but the let down is the instructions and assembly sequences - just not a lot of thought and now that I starting to get use to how the parts mate together, there absolutely is a better way to build the kit.

BTW, I watched Ford vs Ferrari last night on FX and was completely blown away ... what a great movie and inspiration ... just way too many commercials.

Keep 'em comin

Peter

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The chassis and interior are looking very vivid and extremely nice. Bummer with the seat belts, but yours are looking fine as well. Generally, it seems to be a decent kit, but lacks some refinement in parts. I found that with all my Meng builds so far, their T-90 and the Komet, which is a bt astonishing, as they are no newcomer company anymore.
I'm eager to see your bodywork on the Ford. It's so different from plane and armor builds and therefore a lot of fun for a change.

Cheers Rob

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