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Wingnut Wings DH2


Grunhertz
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Brave man, I was thinking of getting me the reissue, but decided against it after looking at the rigging chart. I have a FE.2b in my stash with a lot of goodies, that has to be enough.

I will follow with great interest, how you tackle that flying fishnet :D.

Cheers Rob

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8 hours ago, Bill_S said:

Thanks Bill I now have 2 build logs to follow. The only thing that's really bothering me about the rigging is turnbuckles, simply because of how much its going to cost I worked out there are over 100 points to buckle at bobs prices that's well over £40 for eyelets and tube. I'm wondering if there is a cheaper solution. I looked at gaspatch and when I picked myself up off the floor that was a non starter too. 

Right now I'm thinking about just using tube cut to the right length. Albion alloys do a set of 100 for £12 which is better but I do worry that it may not look right. Anybody have any other cost effective solutions out there? 

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You might consider just simulating them with built up white glue. With no disrespect to the talented modelers who go through the trouble of turnbuckles, its just not for me, life is too short.

Here is a test run I did on the top of a bathroom cup to see if it could be done.

33115933118_df5245a63b_b.jpgRigging Test by The 3rd Placer, on Flickr

As I wrote, good enough for me.

Ryan

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I looked at the instructions for this kit last night. I think you need to determine the diff between RAF wires and regular rigging. RAF wires are flat as shown in the instructions and don't have 'turnbuckles' as regular rigging does. The kit has both types of rigging , I would separate the rigging into the 2 categories and think about it in those terms.  Prym is good for the flat rigging , gaining the flat profile when stretched.

Also there may not be turnbuckles on both ends of a line , I couldn't see well enough in the instructions pics to see if there are tb's at both ends , but it does not make sense to have 2 on one line.

The ww1 site is the best for this type of info, explaining the parts and then detailing how to make them. Eyelets are easily made , as are tubing lengths. Gaspatchs site also explains the diff's and with pics too. I use their stuff as well as p/e for my work.

The only way to save the $ is to do it yourself, you'll then know why the parts are expensive ,  the time to make them is what your paying for.

On the forum where they like to argue in a circular fashion about nothing , you can search 'The Biff Piece' and see the RAF flat rigging rendered with p/e parts and Prym.

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Although WnW’s tight-fitting tolerances certainly contribute to the strength of the kit, I would have thought that taut monofilament would be a determining factor to making the whole finished bird stronger. Of course that means losing the accuracy of the flat RAF wire, but we are in a trade-off dilemna with these ...

Btw, I have found some flat monofilament, but it is not small enough for the DH-2 rigging. It would look just about right for the Swordfish, though ...

Hubert

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Thanks guys. Yes I know why the AM stuff is so expensive because its a PITA to make and I've seen the difference in the types of wire on the destructions. I looked at the brengun ones but they seem to be out of stock every where. I did like the method on the Ww1 site and I'm considering that too 

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I think at first glance it looks daunting, but once you break it into logical steps it's manageable. If you look at Brian's build log (link posted above), structural rigging between the wings, structural on the booms, then control rigging. Work from the inside. The Fokker E.III looked intimidating at first, but in reality it wasn't too bad.

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10 hours ago, Bill_S said:

I think at first glance it looks daunting, but once you break it into logical steps it's manageable. If you look at Brian's build log (link posted above), structural rigging between the wings, structural on the booms, then control rigging. Work from the inside. The Fokker E.III looked intimidating at first, but in reality it wasn't too bad.

That is right Bill. I think a lot of people look at kits like this and it puts them off. It shouldn't 

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