Dennis.E

Brilliant!!!

Arrrrr; the humble aroma of haggis on the open barbie....!

Hi Gus, ...Many happy returns for your Birthday Sir - I trust you had a great day! I'm looking foward to see what you do with this kit Gus - keep up the fantastic work!

I remember taking a close look at this (B-17) air frame in Hendon, North London, and considering the thin aluminium skin of the B-17. I am myself a Military Veteran, but it makes my skin crawl how conditions must have been at two miles (plus) high, sucking your air through a rubber tasting mask terrified that any skin exposed to the sub zero air would freeze solid in seconds, constantly scanning the sky for the inevitable hail of cannon shells that would have caused insurmountable damage to the air frame, and unthinkable damage to the aircrew....somehow to call the lads who manned these planes over Europe with the 8th Air force brave just doesn't quite adequately say it....

Gus;- your wife and mine need to have a wee chat....I can only dream of having dearest front up with one of these beauties! Good luck with the new project!

Outstanding Gus! I feel honored to have helped out in a small way - sorry the salt fading didn't pan out for the best though. You really have done that particular Tamiya kit the justice it deserves Gus, which begs the question...what's next? Cheers Dennis.

Many thanks for that Gus - I am looking forward to you completing this project!

Good Afternoon Gus, You have really hit the nail on the proverbial head here! Tell me Gus, you mentioned Uschi weathering powders; where would I get these? Would Hannants have them? This project is going to look great next to your Mig Gus.

Very nice work - excellent treatment of those horrible seams!

Micha - I would like to put forward a long held theory of mine that the best aircraft modelers either come from a background of building, painting and weathering tanks and/or military hardware, or intersperse the odd tank/military project with their current aircraft projects. I say this because the weathering of tanks teaches one so much with regard to technique, application, color modulation and manipulation, washes and pastel application (including the use of the humble pencil - a technique I have also used in the past)that can be utilized upon aircraft, and take an ordinary model to the next level. Your project is quite beautiful Sir - well done!

Quite exquisite work on the landing gear Sir - if I had the money I think I would plump for one of these kits!

With your Trumpy Flogger still fresh in the memory Gus I am really looking forward to seeing what you have achieved here Sir...

I would tread carefully here Rick...color is highly subjective, even with actual mix ratios ( Which themselves could proove troublesome as both Nakajima and Misibushi both amended their color ratios as the war waged on through 1943/44 into 45). Once applied color becomes subject to atmospheric and diurnal variations, especially down here in the Pacific regions. Add to that ground and aircrew scampering all over the airframe, the corrosive effect of coral dust and salt water spray and cruel levels of humidity...I would apply whatever you are happy with Sir and let anybody try and negate what you have applied...

Recently I had the chance to read Robin Olds' book - It's a tome I would highly recommend to any fan of the Phantom! I'll be following this build with interest Iceman!!

Hey Gus!....You are being left behind Sir! How's it all going?

Lovely work!

Beautiful work!

Hello Danny, Fantastic project and great tutorial Sir! I wouldn't loose too much sleep over the application or lack thereof of the anti corrosion inhibitor (pink stuff) applied to the airframe interior of this aircraft...who is to say it wasn't applied prior to the application of an exterior paint layer in much the same way as many more modern fighter aircraft...down here in Pacific regions Diurnal variations are significant, which together with engine oil, lubricants and coral dust would have reacted with top coats of paint to reveal primer/inhibitor coats (that would be my argument anyway!) Cheers, Dennis

Congratulations on a highly successful and stimulating peice of work Jan! I have heard many implications concerning the building of this kit and it's inherent fit issues - how did you get on Jan? I ask because I would like one of these kits myself.

Fantastic peice of work Sir - is that an Airforce base I see in the background?

A very stimulating and inspirational peice of work Sir - Bravo!

Guten Tag Rob, Your English is fine Sir - and your Corsair is quite beautiful. Fantastic observational skills and color modulation upon the airframe.

Onwards and upwards Sir!(And I understand your desire for successful resolution Gus - I think that's a disease all men of intelligence carry with them...)

Good Morning Bevan, What a fantastic project! It really does look fantastic - congrats!

Good Evening Gus, For the larger areas of the air frame I use acrylic; enamel for smaller areas. I apply my water cut with detergent as you have done Gus - no worries there, and apply the salt. Now you must allow the salt to dry thoroughly; I know this 'feels' wrong - almost counter-intuitive, but you must allow the salt to dry. Now spray your paint/thinner mix on using a light pressure using the airbrush. Allow that to dry completely. Now gently rinse the salt away under the tap Gus - no significant pressure, just let the water do it's thing. I use warm to hot water as the physical impact of heat energy tends to act faster and more effectively in removing the salt. DO NOT RUB AT THE SURFACE...WITH ANYTHING. What will happen if you do (go on..., ask me how I know this...)is you will remove your effect, and any material underneath, right back to the plastic. This is when a military background comes in very handy, as you will have the sufficient coarse language in stock to turn the surrounding air a distinct shade of purple and get the wife running into the kitchen thinking you have just cut your finger off! (Again Gus...ask me how I know this...) What I would do now is allow everything to dry, then spray a coat of clear on, and start again. Only use enamels for small areas Gus, allow everything to dry the whole way through the process, and after gentle rinsing under warm to hot water do not rub at anything. Congratulate yourself at an awesome finish then leave the model to dry before applying another clear coat to seal your work in. If there is anything you need clarification on Gus please sing out - I have learned these lessons the hard way, but the technique does work, and work well. The best of luck Sir!