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DocRob

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  1. DocRob
    I use the same method like you Kai, but a little more refined, with the help of a relatively exact kitchen scale. Cheers Rob
  2. DocRob
    Thanks Gaz, but building was a breeze here, it's all about painting and weathering at the same time . If I can create the illusion of metallic heaviness for you, it makes me quite happy, mission accomplished . CheersRob
  3. DocRob
    Thanks Kpnuts, I appended the intro of the building thread again as an explanation. Cheers Rob Copy of intro: Welcome to the future, a knight, maybe it's history, noooo, its sci-fi. These Ammoknights are a sidekick to the Maschinenkrieger or Ma.K or ZbV 3000 universe and I spare you the banal story behind, because it's irrelevant for the project I have no idea, if there is any interest in a WIP of that kind. First of all it's not about building, because all building was done in a day and was a very simple affair. The fit of the kit parts is very good and to make painting and weathering easier, all subassemblies can be snapped together without gluing, quite comfortable. The only extra work went into the seamlines of the arms and legs, where I used Tamiya extra thin glue in a left tiny gap, between the halves, then being pushed together with some force, so that some glue dries on the surface and can later be sanded away, result, no gaps at all. What this WIP will be about is painting and weathering, where I will incorporate some new adventures. My plan is to brush paint the Ammoknight with a layering technique of different type of colours, let's see, how this works out. The little scene will include the opened Ammoknight powersuit and Sasha the welding girl, patching the worn and beaten knight up after battle. If you have guessed, that this will involve metal, rust, grime, flaked paint and some sex appeal, you're right. Like on most of my builds, I have a very detailed picture in my head, showing the finalized project and like always, I'm curious about, if I'm able to deliver. The scene will look like this
  4. DocRob
    Thank you Amigos, this experiment, will lead to others, as everything works to plan, but now, I can avoid figure painting anymore and that's another beast. Cheers Rob
  5. DocRob
    Thanks Kai, I'm blushing . It's relatively easy to score beside the trotten pathes, where nobody can argue about your shade of RLM66. One of my motors in modelling is replicate what I imagine and with these type of kits, I can develop my own techniques for achieving that. Trying to give different materials their correct appearance is tempting me a lot, also how surrounding effects have their impact on the materials. It's like painting a picture in my head and then, trying to put it in reality, at least in scale. BTW: The bastard stole my beer . Cheers Rob
  6. DocRob
    No worries Mihailo, I was just describing, what I saw on the first pics, I had ever seen of the type, therefore my question. I'm no expert. Your floats look great and the deck details on the later pictures of your prints look perfect. Cheers Rob
  7. DocRob
    Hi Mihailo, when I see your floats, it seems that the deck is flat lengthways Except in your very first picture), where the two pics in the German Wikipeda entry show a lowering deck for the W.4 floats to the aft side. The W.12 is a great kit, it needs some modifications, specially around the engine, but it was a pure pleasure build. Cheers Rob
  8. DocRob
    After some frustrations connected to - guess what - decals, I made some progress. The decals where stiff as a board and tend to break easy. It took several coats of different solutions to get them onto slightly curved objects. I skipped the plan to add stencils, even these for the fog dispensers and considered illegible handlettering, instead, but nixed that too. After I took out a new kit from the stash, I finally found some motivation, to work on the Ammoknight again. The hands were treated with steel pigments and oil fluid, the tank was painted and received steel and rust pigment dotted on. I added some exhaust stains, a few oil drops here and there and some dots of rust. I added the loosened fog pots to the cables and detail painted the cables here. As a last step, I put some iron pigments on my finger and rubbed it cautiously over the power suit, emphasizing some metal surfacing through abrasion. The suit should be more or less ready now. Cheers Rob
  9. DocRob
    Hello Mihailo and welcome to this friendly and competent corner of the web. You started a very interesting project with the W.4, and I will follow your build closely, because I have a soft spot for seaplanes and flying boats, even better, if they are made of wood, metal and cloth. The top of your floats, looks like mine with the circular openings, which need handles and the metal enforcements. I have rapidly looked at only two pics of a W.4 from Wikipedia and on both, the tail end of the floats is lowering, where yours have an even deck, but it's only a first impression. I'm absolutely not an expert on WWI seaplanes, but have given my second WNW build, the Hansa Brandenburg W.12 some thoughts. I modified the floats, by adding dents into the sides, because pictures show, (E.G. WNW documentation) that they were dented, like the outer layer of tin has formed some dents, by the influence of the elements or other physical events. I also used a multi layer painting technique, because in my case, the floats were covered with a black tar like paint and I wanted to have them appear worn and exposed to salt and algae residues. This is the build log, if you are interested. Das Kamel - Hansa Brandenburg W.12 - LSM Work In Progress - Large Scale Modeller The finished W.12 Hansa Brandenburg W.12 Das Kamel, Sylt 1918 RFI - LSM Aircraft Finished Work - Large Scale Modeller Cheers Rob
  10. DocRob
    Interesting approach to reinforce the struts, Gaz. The 0,5 mm brass rod should enhance the stability a lot. To carve the plastic struts must have been a little unnerving, without breaking these fragile parts. I also like the general approach, as to work on the areas of most concern first. To me this is the dealbreaker, if I find solutions for the main issues, I can go on. Cheers Rob
  11. DocRob
    Wow, that's quite a bit of (unnecessary and only lacking design infused) extra work, but as far as you done it, it will be masterclass in the end. I'm not much into jets, but some, I like E.G. the F-104, Phantom, Mig-21, Lightning and the Mirage. I doubt, that I will build many of them and have only a 1/48 Eduard Phantom and a Mig-21 in my stash. If you need a cool jet, which is a pure pleasure build, try the AMK Mig-31. It's so well designed, especially around the often problematic intakes. All mayor seams are hidden through design magic The kit needs no filler and nearly no glue and you could put it together within a timeframe you need to overwork the intakes of the Mirage. I wish, the Italeri engineers would inspect the MIG closely and try to learn something. The benefit for us though, we can learn a lot from your build and which techniques you use, to ship around the obstacles. I'm sure, you will have pulled an eye catching soon. Cheers Rob
  12. DocRob
    The AK Extreme cleaner is my new go to solution for getting rid of any residues in the airbrush, at least, all the stuff I use. Smells like hell, but I use far less, than with other cleaners. Only some drops with the nozzle closed with the gloved hand to loosen any residues. blow out in a paper towel and in the end of the day, a thorough cleaning with the disassembled airbrush receiving some drops of the AK stuff. I always use a mask and have proper ventilation, but to me the small amount of needed cleaner is a clear benefit. Cheers Rob
  13. DocRob
    If you built the Komet closed, do test fit a lot. Mine ended on the SOD, because I ran out of patience. Cheers Rob
  14. DocRob
    The bluish oils add a great touch and make your winter camo even better than before. It's always interesting to see, how a filter or a wash, even in relatively bright color, can make the difference. For blackening, which I often do with PE, brass barrels (can't beat that) and white metal tracks. The key is cleaning the parts entirely with alcohol, before putting them in the chemicals and move the bath, to hinder bubbles settling in corners. Residues of CA will also be visible on the tracks. To stop the process with the desired effect, I put the parts onto a paper towel and rinse them with water rapidly. I use ready mixed black patina for brass and copper, which can be bought by the half liter on big A for Tiffany lamps. It's cheap, lasts for years and can be diluted with water, to have a better control over the effect. Cheers Rob
  15. DocRob
    Thanks Peter, in a way it's a tutorial for myself, from the first picture in my head to the step by step planned realization of the paintjob. Cheers Rob
  16. DocRob
    Thank you Kai and Harv, more decaling would have been interesting to look on more closely, when finished, but this build is about general appearance. The colour, with it's layering gives the model so much depth and this won about the close range eye catching stenciling. I will cautiously add some grime and maybe some dots of metal shining through, but I don't want to loose the main focus on the surface of the suit zooming in to the heart shaped patch. Cheers Rob
  17. DocRob
    I'm a bloody German as well and my English has more holes than the Mirage has shape issues Kai. I love your translation of SOD, sounds like a good title for a very bad movie, which can be a lot of fun. In your test fit the Mirage shows her real beauty and pays back for some of the burdens, if you don't look to close,... Lots of work ahead, but also a picture of how she will look in the end. Cheers Rob
  18. DocRob
    I admire your willingness and bravery to master this kit. Seeing the surfaces would scare me to the core, without an idea to get them look interesting and right in the end. Cheer Rob
  19. DocRob
    I will build mine closed up, if ZM let me. I like the shape of the Uhu and won't have that disturbed by opened hatches. The canopy may be opened, and maybe... Cheers Rob
  20. DocRob
    Decisions, decisions, Phil. Anyway, it's not a bad thing to build a P-38 for starters, it's a beautiful plane, with lots of schemes to chose. I'm in a similar situation minus the Monogram kit. I have an Academy one with all the galore and the Tamiya with some add ons like metal barrels, superchargers, masks and wheels. First I thought about cross building too, but skipped the thought. I will build the Tamiya first. Most of the parts are very good out of the box and do not need a replacement urgently. I decided, the Tamiya build should be a fun build, in between some more demanding builds. The Academy with all the resin and it's not perfect fit, will need a lot more attention and if you think about cross building, I would check if the main resin components fit the Tamiya without causing too much trouble. I doubt this will be the case. I love the Brassin cockpit, so it could maybe lead to a parallel build. My Academy is a later model and would receive a NMF for change. Interesting to see, that your stash numbers increase by the day. There is a sleeper stash in your garage. In German we say 'Du hast Leichen im Keller' like you have body's in the basement . Cheers Rob
  21. DocRob
    Not much done today with the Ammoknight, than turning it around and try to decide about decals and stencils. The conclusion, there will only be a few and near to no stencils. I love the different matte shining of rust and green and don't want to destroy the look, by using varnish. The decals will almost exclusively applied to the orange parts, which received a coat of Pledge, brushed on. This is my test armor plate with the scratched decal. Not the final result, but not too bad, but the chipped colour / rust effect gets a little affected by the varnish, like I feared. That's ok for these orange parts, but I would have bitten my a***, losing the fine finish on the hole suit. Additional, I painted some details like the gas bottles. They were sprayed in blue and yellow and then were dabbed with brushes, using slight tonal variations of the base colour. It's not so good t see on the pic, but it resembles a rough casted texture nicely and after some scratches and detail painting, they will look good Cheers Rob
  22. DocRob
    Nice work on the wheel wells Kai. I hope the struggles with the kit do not lead to a SOD-ness for the Mirage. You should sentence the Italeri people to building one each, poor sods . Cheers Rob
  23. DocRob
    Muchas Gracias Señhores, until now, everything worked to plan, but now; I'm a bit in the open. I want to add some decals, unit signs and stencils, but I'm not sure, how to integrate them into the worn look. I even thought about hand painting the emblems. I will try a decal onto some Pledge brushed on a minor part and then will soft it with a decal solvent and then it's toothpicks and tweezers. Let's see how this blends. @Gaz: I don't see to many opportunities for this technique on our normal subjects in our preferred scales, but there are some, like derelict objects or some crudely cast tanks. I will try, how this will adopt to figure painting in larger scales and on other projects, I have planned. With the Ammoknight, I had a picture in my head of the finished power suit, for which I tried to create the appropriate workflow. Cheers Rob
  24. DocRob
    And the pictures tell a great story Gaz, I really like your wintery outfit for the Stug. Cheers Rob
  25. DocRob
    I feel your pain with ultra fine repetitive works, like these chains. Without better knowing, I doubt, that an anchor chain would lay loosely on a deck like the back one. Imagine a ship rolling in heavy sea and a loose chain is snaking on the deck looking for prey foot. Cheers Rob
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