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DocRob

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  1. DocRob
    Hi Paul, I built the kit some years ago in the Iraqi Enigma version. Its a simple and easy to build kit, typical Tamiya, but I enhanced it somewhat. I used Friul tracks and some resin wheels with burnt away rubber. I added resin parts for the extra armor and a voyager PE set and Voyager lenses. An area which has to be reworked on the kit is the plumbing for the fuel tanks. Easily done with some copper wire. Cheers Rob
  2. DocRob
    You mastered the TA-152 nicely and the little scene looks great. I have no idea, how you managed to get the cowlings closeable and looking right, when closed. I tried the same and failed, despite working on different solutions, even with bended PE hinges. Since then, I haven't touched a ZM kit, but have some in my stash and hope for the better. Cheers Rob
  3. DocRob
    Thanks Jeff, I do like the outcome too, as the powersuit seems to gain weight, with every step, made to look it more metallic. Cheers Rob
  4. DocRob
    Thank you Kev, I'm very pleased you like the build. I always enjoy and fear the realization of ideas, I preformed in my head for a project, involving lots of new techniques. The essence of this friction mostly results in lots of fun, when the fear part reduces, while step by step, the concept grows to reality. Cheers Rob
  5. DocRob
    You can't beat Kabuki, all others may mean trouble, with too much or too less adhesion, border lifts, shrinking,... Nice looking gullwing, Martin . Cheers Rob
  6. DocRob
    This is an epic build Frank. I love your attention to detail and how you are closing in step by step. Cheers Rob
  7. DocRob
    Kabuki is the type of masking material, mostly yellow and somewhat paperesque. I think what you mean by Tamiya masking, is made of the very same material. Cheers Rob
  8. DocRob
    Hi Frank, I saw this kit some time ago on the HPH page. Too big for me, but after mastering the Cat, what can really hinder you? Cheers Rob
  9. DocRob
    That's a great result and what a difference to the state the boat was in at the beginning. You build and painted an eyecatcher, hard to photograph though, given the dimensions long and sleek. Cheers Rob
  10. DocRob
    Your engine looks brilliant Frank, time to build an opened up 109 around in a maintenance scene . The scale seems to be perfect for representing these ionic engines. Keep up your nice work. Cheers Rob
  11. DocRob
    Unbelivable, I admire your dedication with the bird. In the end it will be worth it, but my patience would have worn off by now. There are good kits out there and bad kits too, but this is a mixed breed, it's too bad for a big market company and insofar inexcusable . But you have gone so far with the Mirage, I'm absolutely sure, it will be a stunner. Cheers Rob
  12. DocRob
    This will be great Phil. Maybe it's a good idea to cut the masks for panels now, without paint on the fuselage and wings. Stick on some Kabuki tape and cut them carefully or use a fingernail or another fitting tool on the kabuki and cut it when removed from the plastic. Cheers rob
  13. DocRob
    I knew, I could keep your attention only thus far with the power suit, Gentlemen, it's all about Sashsa and that's exactly, why I paint her last. Got you . Cheers Rob
  14. DocRob
    Thanks Phil, I'm happy that you like the power suit thing. I'm thinking about, what to do with the second one. Maybe sunken in a lake, let's see. Cheers Rob
  15. DocRob
    Thanks Peter, this type of weathering can't be adopted to every object in any given scale, I fear, unless you will build a scrapyard dio, or something similar. It fits for the 1/20 scale and for the organic formed Ammoknight. Cheers Rob
  16. DocRob
    It's always hard to judge from pics, but I like the slush effect on the wheels. On the body, I would add some earth pigments or even fine sand into the wet stuff, to break it up visually. Cheers Rob
  17. DocRob
    I use the same method like you Kai, but a little more refined, with the help of a relatively exact kitchen scale. Cheers Rob
  18. DocRob
    Thanks Gaz, but building was a breeze here, it's all about painting and weathering at the same time . If I can create the illusion of metallic heaviness for you, it makes me quite happy, mission accomplished . CheersRob
  19. DocRob
    Thanks Kpnuts, I appended the intro of the building thread again as an explanation. Cheers Rob Copy of intro: Welcome to the future, a knight, maybe it's history, noooo, its sci-fi. These Ammoknights are a sidekick to the Maschinenkrieger or Ma.K or ZbV 3000 universe and I spare you the banal story behind, because it's irrelevant for the project I have no idea, if there is any interest in a WIP of that kind. First of all it's not about building, because all building was done in a day and was a very simple affair. The fit of the kit parts is very good and to make painting and weathering easier, all subassemblies can be snapped together without gluing, quite comfortable. The only extra work went into the seamlines of the arms and legs, where I used Tamiya extra thin glue in a left tiny gap, between the halves, then being pushed together with some force, so that some glue dries on the surface and can later be sanded away, result, no gaps at all. What this WIP will be about is painting and weathering, where I will incorporate some new adventures. My plan is to brush paint the Ammoknight with a layering technique of different type of colours, let's see, how this works out. The little scene will include the opened Ammoknight powersuit and Sasha the welding girl, patching the worn and beaten knight up after battle. If you have guessed, that this will involve metal, rust, grime, flaked paint and some sex appeal, you're right. Like on most of my builds, I have a very detailed picture in my head, showing the finalized project and like always, I'm curious about, if I'm able to deliver. The scene will look like this
  20. DocRob
    Thank you Amigos, this experiment, will lead to others, as everything works to plan, but now, I can avoid figure painting anymore and that's another beast. Cheers Rob
  21. DocRob
    Thanks Kai, I'm blushing . It's relatively easy to score beside the trotten pathes, where nobody can argue about your shade of RLM66. One of my motors in modelling is replicate what I imagine and with these type of kits, I can develop my own techniques for achieving that. Trying to give different materials their correct appearance is tempting me a lot, also how surrounding effects have their impact on the materials. It's like painting a picture in my head and then, trying to put it in reality, at least in scale. BTW: The bastard stole my beer . Cheers Rob
  22. DocRob
    No worries Mihailo, I was just describing, what I saw on the first pics, I had ever seen of the type, therefore my question. I'm no expert. Your floats look great and the deck details on the later pictures of your prints look perfect. Cheers Rob
  23. DocRob
    Hi Mihailo, when I see your floats, it seems that the deck is flat lengthways Except in your very first picture), where the two pics in the German Wikipeda entry show a lowering deck for the W.4 floats to the aft side. The W.12 is a great kit, it needs some modifications, specially around the engine, but it was a pure pleasure build. Cheers Rob
  24. DocRob
    After some frustrations connected to - guess what - decals, I made some progress. The decals where stiff as a board and tend to break easy. It took several coats of different solutions to get them onto slightly curved objects. I skipped the plan to add stencils, even these for the fog dispensers and considered illegible handlettering, instead, but nixed that too. After I took out a new kit from the stash, I finally found some motivation, to work on the Ammoknight again. The hands were treated with steel pigments and oil fluid, the tank was painted and received steel and rust pigment dotted on. I added some exhaust stains, a few oil drops here and there and some dots of rust. I added the loosened fog pots to the cables and detail painted the cables here. As a last step, I put some iron pigments on my finger and rubbed it cautiously over the power suit, emphasizing some metal surfacing through abrasion. The suit should be more or less ready now. Cheers Rob
  25. DocRob
    Hello Mihailo and welcome to this friendly and competent corner of the web. You started a very interesting project with the W.4, and I will follow your build closely, because I have a soft spot for seaplanes and flying boats, even better, if they are made of wood, metal and cloth. The top of your floats, looks like mine with the circular openings, which need handles and the metal enforcements. I have rapidly looked at only two pics of a W.4 from Wikipedia and on both, the tail end of the floats is lowering, where yours have an even deck, but it's only a first impression. I'm absolutely not an expert on WWI seaplanes, but have given my second WNW build, the Hansa Brandenburg W.12 some thoughts. I modified the floats, by adding dents into the sides, because pictures show, (E.G. WNW documentation) that they were dented, like the outer layer of tin has formed some dents, by the influence of the elements or other physical events. I also used a multi layer painting technique, because in my case, the floats were covered with a black tar like paint and I wanted to have them appear worn and exposed to salt and algae residues. This is the build log, if you are interested. Das Kamel - Hansa Brandenburg W.12 - LSM Work In Progress - Large Scale Modeller The finished W.12 Hansa Brandenburg W.12 Das Kamel, Sylt 1918 RFI - LSM Aircraft Finished Work - Large Scale Modeller Cheers Rob
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