DocRob

Back to work after some linguistic excursions . I decided, that before chipping I will do an extra round of what I call emphasizing. In fact it is a process opposite to a wash, highlighting risen details with a slightly lighter shade of the base Colours. It enhances the 3D effect and I like the result on armor, but it is time consuming and test for the eye, because it's applied by brush. Man, this tank has rivets . Cheers Rob

Merci Hubert, My French is definitely worse than my modelling skills, at least I hope so . Cheers Rob

Hehe, my French is good enough not to need a translator for understanding the meaning of what you said to your wife. Mine wouldn't have been impressed either, might even give me a horse kiss (German expression for a bruise). Having some thousand Vinyls in my shelves, there is no ELO among them. pity, your words will be hidden to me for all times . Cheers Rob

Deja vu time , another fine Corsair John. Painting and wear looking great and I like the strange looking grey fin. Cheers Rob

You got me again on languages , French and Russian are not my strong side, but I will sure do something about the rest of the Char. Next will be chipping and a little dry mudding. I will choose my next subject on the country of origin to reduce the need of translators . Cheers Rob

Sweet and grimy, nice looking engine. Cheers Rob

A great looking 110 you built there, Carl. The paintjob is perfect and I really like the Colour rendition. Cheers Rob

That's convincing evidence against my soso argumentation , which was based on the English/German translation of SuvArOv you gave us. Like I said, I'm no expert with Cyrillic letters or Russian language. Good to hear that everything is fine. Cheers Rob

You should use a monochrome background while working at the frame . When I see this, mine will go further down the shelf. Having my experiences with the not so easy to build TA-152, I recommend test fitting a lot. Cheers Rob

Wow, very dynamic, the snow looks great and very convincing. Is there a difference between the 'a' and the 'o' in Suwarow, because it looks like the same letter 'o' on the picture. I'm barely able to decipher Cyrillic letters, so I'm not an expert, just wondering. By the way, the hand lettering looks khorosho. Cheers Rob

Hi Martin, you are the man to tackle that Beau, I will follow for sure. Cheers Rob

Hi Harv. ever thought about Albion slide fit tubes and soldering / glueing. A brass construction is very sturdy and might solve your problem. There was a great built of a Ju-388 by Wouter here and he had a similar problem. https://forum.largescalemodeller.com/topic/4145-ju-388-l-1/?page=3 Cheers Rob

Stunning result, love the paintjob. Cheers Rob

Just use a German layout notebook keyboard like me , Höhöhöhö, which equals to Hihihihi. Cheers Rob

Freezing cool stuff, Gaz, I like the dramatic position of the turret, combined with the uphill crawling tank. Cheers Rob

Nice one Phil. I like your Marder and the subtle weathering. The hammer is an eye catcher, like the heavily used water canister. Lets see more of your great builds in the future, I'm seeing forward to that. Little remark: I would spend a drop of glue on the right side frame of the spent case cage. Cheers Rob

With the pic of your furry predator I wonder that there is only one hair in your splendid paintjob. The good thing on my little dog is that he is more earthbound . Love your mouth watering build. Until I followed it, I never thought about building a 110, but that might change... Cheers Rob

Thank you guys, Sometimes I did, sometimes I don't . For example on my recent P-47 Dottie Mae build I used steel pigments from Uschi for the wheel struts. These pigments are among the finest (grain and quality) and after rubbing them to shine thoroughly they adhere well. A coat of Future didn't change the appearance of the pigments at all. On other occasions I applied no protective coating, specially, if I wanted to achieve a grainy surface like on heavily burnt metal. Pigments which are not perfectly rubbed onto the material will alter with protective coatings. Here is an example of non protected pigments on an old built of mine. https://forum.largescalemodeller.com/topic/5256-take-a-brake-leak-t-55-enigma-mb-220/ I'm not entirely decided on 'mudding' the Char heavily, but if I do, I will use pigment fixer to protect the result, but I have to account for a little darkening effect of the fixer. I can't really comment on durability, as I normal loose interest in a build after finishing, but the above mentioned T-55 is still ok after some years and others are as well. Cheers Rob

Thank you Danny, we can do a little 'then and now' dio with our Dotties of different times . Cheers Rob

Thank you, it's pure fun, just dabbing three different shades of acrylics onto the parts in random pattern, then three shades of rust pigments and last but not least some steel/iron pigments and black pigments for smoke. The main thing is awareness of how corrosion builds up. In my case it is more spread and intense on the tubes and only on the hottest part, the upper part of the sheet metal coverings, where also the possibility of tear is the greatest. Cheers Rob

The rearside of the beast got some attention. I fiddled the chain around the hooks, which is greatly explained in the manual. The chain was primed before and treated with iron paste from AK and with rust and iron pigments by AK and Uschi. I have to admit, I'm a pigment addict, specially when it comes to metals, they look so real if they are applied correct. Don't worry, I don't sniff them, at least not on purpose , but look for that fat bolts holding the eyelets for the chain, some of Uschis iron pigments applied with a big flat brush and whoosh, it looks metal. Sure, it's nothing else than good old drybrushing, but it is way easier and finer in the result. Cheers Rob

The fun part is starting, get the beast used an dirty. A first layer of weathering is applied. I used a brown wash from AK. After drying I used my Lifecolour rust set to get some heat inflicted corrosion onto the exhausts. These were added with black smoke pigments and some iron powder from Uschi. Cheers Rob

Salut les messieurs, the beast got Futurized before applying the decals. These were not easy to handle and got very brittle with my setting liquid. The cockade broke completely and I had no spare or want for cutting masks. I will add some Colour touchups to repair it a bit and the rest is gone by boot wear on that hinge bars. Next was two coats of brownish filter from MIG to get the camo-colours better blended. If you have ever heard the Dude say 'That rug tied the room together' in the Big Lebowsky, you can imagine the effect on a tank, its simple, but it's magic as well. The Antenna was sprayed in what I hope is the right Colour and the same went on to the mufflers as a base for corroded heat exposed pars. The tracks were sprayed with Tamiya gun metal and then coated with a heavy dose of AK's track wash. After some minutes of drying, I rubbed a little off the exposed parts. Cheers Rob

Looking great Ernie. The F5 is not one of my favorites, but it was a pure pleasure ride to accompany you while building her. I like the result, everything blends in perfectly. Sometimes it's good to build one oob, and ask yourself, why did I use that much AM on my last build. Cheers Rob

Oh, there was a T34 in that picture, must have slipped my attention ,