DocRob

Hi Phil, I built the TA-152 recently and presented her here, combined with a very personal view about the kit, building and painting it. Like Wumm I think it's the 152 to get, but the kit is not without flaws and shortcomings. https://forum.largescalemodeller.com/topic/5434-ta-152-zoukei-moura-finally-done/ Some more stuff for digging deeper should be in here. https://forum.largescalemodeller.com/topic/5340-ta-152-zoukei-moura-132-my-first-zm/ I'm out of the Würger Party because of that build, but there are waiting two F8's for me, but that's for later. Cheers Rob

Beautiful Corsair, Frank. Nice job on painting and weathering. Those US Navy birds are a great canvas for deploying new techniques, magnifique. Cheers Rob

Nice work on the pit Peter, it looks absolutely great. You are right, there is nothing like building a Tamiya Corsair to get the Mojo stirred again. No need for grinding in the cockpit area, but I did anyway with my Birdcage, using the even better Brassin cockpit, but actually this was only a vanity thing, the provided one is absolutely great for a non-resin one. Sometime ago I did a little walkaround right here, with some pics I made in Pensacola of the mentioned plane. https://forum.largescalemodeller.com/topic/4925-f4u-1a-national-naval-aviation-museum-pensacola-fl/?tab=comments#comment-63136 Next build should be a F4-Phantom to stay in the F4 pattern . Cheers Rob

Noice , and shortening the wheel struts looks right to me. The paintjob looks good and well blended, perfect rendition of a unique bird. Cheers Rob

Beautiful, one of the examples where the technique of applying foil perfectly matches the streamlined subject. Putting foil on a plane seems to be 'en vogue' in the moment. Having used Bare Metal Foil only for some detail work, I might got tempted to jump the wagon and try a little project. Back to your Ryan, which is a stunner and the contrast between metal and the yellow wings opens the eyes Cheers Rob

Thank you Mike, I read (and downloaded) your great log, and will use it as a guideline in places. I might go with the Aviattic decals, but in the case of the W.12 this will be an expensive enterprise. As it is double winged, I think it will take two sheets of naval hex (I like the faded one too) plus one sheet in a darker shade, because the tail section of the W.12 seems to be covered in a darker toned linen. Maybe that could be achieved with preparing the kit surface a little darker. Cheers Rob

Nice, I like the 'bordering' effect in the green blotches of the camo, if it's to much it looks like you don't know how to use the airbrush, but here it adds and gives some depth. Chees Rob

Stunner, I have to agree with Harv, leave her that way, love the look. Cheers Rob

Followed your build with lots of interest. What a beauty you got in the end, a clear winner. Cheers Rob

You nailed the Brandenburg and put her into a great fitting setting. The way the W.29 is weathered looks like a lot of seaspray and weather influences and supports the authentic look of the dio. I have the W.12 in my stash along with some goodies and the same Copper State figures and have planned something similar for mine. I will download your WIP as a well appreciated guide. Do you think the Aviattics are a must, because I'm undecided and interested to hear your opinion. Cheers Rob

But without rockets Ernie, no way that the bespoken person would take that almost unarmed gullwing under his knowing hands . Cheers Rob

CMK has some 5' HVAR's in their program. They come in a set of three and without racks. So Ernie, you don't have to dump the 1D for getting the rockets. https://www.cmkkits.com/en/detail-sets-accessories/hvar-rocket-5-inch-3-pcs-1-32/ Cheers Rob

Hi Gaz, thanks a ton for your detailed report about the ME-ng 410. I knew about the spinners and props and bought some from Quickboost, which look ok to me. I share your astonishment, about flash and weak engineering in parts of the kit. It seems to be a Meng thing, they tend to overdo sometimes and hinder swift buildability by strange solutions. I liked all their kits I built, but they all had their issues. The wheels seemed to be a little big to me too, only by browsing through the sprues, but I haven't measured. A little fear arose by viewing the multi part canopy, but you seemed to have tackled that well as far as I can see. thanks for warning me about the links, they do look very delicate, I think I will use a razor-saw to remove them from the sprue. Cheers Rob

Thanx Carl for showing us the right direction with the HVAR's. My Mossie gets a bigger chance of being rocket equipped now . I'm about to buy a 1D, but for other reasons then to salvage the missiles , so I think I will purchase a dedicated B-25 set from PM. Ernie, there is only the small picture in the upper left corner of the PM-manual showing the one column arrangement in the PBJ, but nothing about the seats. I'm not deep enough into the PBJ project to decide about the seat problem. Cheers Rob

Hi Gaz, looking mighty good so far. I like the design of the 410. How do you like the kit, where there any major problems in the build? I have the exact same version in my shelf with some AM for the cockpit, prop and spinners. Yeah Martin, nice pics, truly motivating. Cheers Rob

Hi Ernie, great question. I got these from Aires for my Tamiya Mossie, but am not sure if I use them. Three different heads are included in the set. Like you I will convert my B-25 to PBJ and so I'm interested in opinions about the rockets and the starting racks as well. I'm sure you know about the Profi Modeller conversion set for the PBJ. It contains parts necessary for converting the cockpit area, the radar pod and some decals., but no rockets are included. The decals don't look too promising, so for me it will be masks. Sorry for the bad -on the fly- photo quality. If you start your PBJ, I will be following for sure. Cheers Rob

Nice recovery, In the end it will be "only" you to see that canopy area with that level of critizism. All the others will see, like Drifter said, the best BIG Mossie out there. Cheers Rob

Hi Rich, splendid work here again. With your love for corroded metals, I don't want to see your real car . Keep it coming, your ugly frog is a clinic in scratch building and heavy weathering. Whatever may happen to metal, you show it in your builds . Cheers Rob

Chapeau, everything blends in perfectly. It was a pleasure to follow and store some ideas for my 1/24 Typhoon. Cheers Rob

Hi Phil, I used Vallejo on different occasions and in different Colours (black, white and red-brown) and have to say that I'm not very impressed with the way they behave. The finish looks smooth, but adherence is not overall trustworthy, specially with mixed materials like PE or resin. After lots of tries I abandoned the idea of using acrylic primers on my builds. Priming to me is one of the most important steps in painting models and if the primer fails to adhere, the whole paintjob will be in trouble. Working with sticky masks, using different chemicals for painting, weathering, chipping and coating cries for a solid primed model and I don't want to have the thought in the back of my head, that with a late mask to peel of, I might ruin the whole work done. for me the primer of choice is Tamiya rattle can stuff. Yeah, it's expensive, but it adheres well, sprays fine (with some training) and you don't have to clean the airbrush I can only repeat myself here, a primer that doesn't stink is no good for the job, just my two cents . Cheers Rob

I started to use burnishing fluid from Uschi, but since it's a small bottle and I also use that bluish liquid for blackening white metal tracks for tanks, I found that stuff in a store for tiffany lamps for some Euros per liter. That will last for years . Cheers Rob

Wow Peter, great skills and craftmanship. I will follow your outstanding build closely. Cheers Rob

Hi Drifter, you don't have to paint the barrels necessarily. If you use burnishing fluid on the cleaned and grease free brass barrels you get a blackening effect, which is controllable and matte in finish. The other good thing about that process is, that you don't add the thickness of Colour to the surface and the details maintain. Cheers Rob

Hi Martin, it seems you chose a great subject for extensive fading and weathering and yeah, the engine could use some maintenance. Nice pics, I will store them for my, oops, did I say 1/48, SBD with lots of AM. Cheers Rob

Use PE or just thin it . Yeah James, that adds some realistic touch, nice (and clean) work. Cheers Rob