HubertB

A 1/32 Sea Hawk ? You bet I am a (reasonable ) taker ! Hubert

So it IS in fact a primer pump, only it’s pushing fuel in the carburetor by pressurizing the fuel tank, until the actual fuel pump is activated by the running of the engine ... The bottom line is the tubing at the other end of the pump should go to the tank, shouldn’t it ? Hubert

Sounds more logical an explanation than mine. It’s a big pump for pushing a few extra drops of fuel in a carburetor. Thanks for the answer. Hubert

IIRC, it is the primer pump for the engine. Was hand-operated and made of copper or brass. HTH Hubert

Was aware of it. Another « must buy » for me ! Hubert

More ! Hubert

I had not thought about making resin copies of the spats. I can see already plenty of reasons where there would be issues like undercut. Lemme give the idea more reflection . Hubert

Actually, it's one of the (or more likely just THE ) inaccuracies of the kit: the root of the prop is too squarish and needs smoothing and rounding out. This is maybe where the AM parts could be justified, as the oil radiator which is nice as is, but given molding limitations - mold release angle to be precise -, does not accurately represent the concentric fan-type orientation of the radiator fins ... I think I have sorted out doing the wheel-spats for the 1934 prototype. The spats are not that complex to reproduce, but the fairing between the spat and the LG struts is a very complex streamined shape, and I made my life more difficult by not yet gluing the strut to the fairing, to make the process reversible in case I f%@!d up and had to change plans. Time to start a WiP now this is sorted, methink. Hubert

Dang ! I did not even know there were many Sutton harnesses ! Hubert

I have no specific knowledge of this one, but would venture an educated guess that it was a Sutton harness, like on other contemporaries, including the Mosquito. Of course, i’d be happy to proved wrong Hubert

Just FYI, if you are interested, the 1/32 Dragon Rapide kit from Lukgraph will be released in Mag, and preorders are open now. Just ask Lukasz on the contact email on Lukgraph site ... Even though this means my own project for this one is totally wasted (90% of my doing), I am really excited to see this kit released Hubert

Sorry to disagree, Ernie, but Guinness is drank : a) draught from the tap(or at least in their new cans with the ball inside, like paint cans) with nitrogen gas to pressurise the keg. Certainly not at room temperatures, and even less from a glass bottle where it tastes like tar ... b) cold c) in a pint d) with repeats of a) to c) I used to market beers in my youth years (before petfood, and product tests were more interesting in this first part than in the latter one ), and we were distributing Guinness in France. My personal record for emptying a pint was 9.3 seconds, waaaayyy behind my best colleague at the Guinness brewery at 2.5 seconds Hubert PS: I hope things turn around better for you sooner rather than later, Tony. My business is not looking good ATM, but I suspect still leagues better than the airline industry.

Agreed. This is looking very good! Excellent work ! Hubert

I believe I’ll have to put your word to test, Ernie. I just can’t fathom in which drawer or box I put my Yahu IP

I don’t want to crush you hopes, John, but the issues are probably more serious than ICM’s ones ... Still, it’s an A-26, in 1/32, and it’s unlikely there will be a Tamiya one ... If you look at other threads here on LSM, you’ll get the full picture, chapter and verse ... Hubert

No. But I had bought one for my SW kits The Special Edition has 4 brass Master gun-barrels, a very nice Bitzkrieg resin pilot, and the special scheme I have now sent to Ernie. Not sure it is worth the extra price, considering you can get most of the extras separately, apart from the special decal sheet. Hubert

In fairness, Tom, a lot of these old vacs are sometimes not as accurate ( no idea for the ID/Tigger/Combat A-26, but I am thinking of the Hampden for instance ... ) as one could expect them to be. Plus there IS a difference between a good female-molding vac (like Welsh Models 1/144 liners) and the sometimes rough male-master vacs ... Where I am 200 % with you, is that vacform kits are more maligned than they really deserve. And resin AM and now 3D printing make the option far easier now than ever. Hubert

I’m with Martin. It looks boringly good ... As for NMF, there was only the prototype, the same as I will do in Paris Air show colors. I am currently working on the wheel spats. That’s the acid test of my project ... Hubert

Looking good Ernie. Your build and another one on LSP have shown that one of the major issues of the kit is the fit of the wing, and even more the fit of the wing’s MG cover. A good forewarning for me ( and all the others ) lagging behind you. One word of caution regarding your engine : all the Bristol engines had black-enamelled crankcases and pushrod-covers. Hubert.

Actually, in spite of ( or maybe because ? ) all your mishaps, the aircraft and its weathering look realistic as it is . So ghod work ! Hubert

Well, think of it this way : with 600 meters, you can do A LOT of WnW kits Hubert

I personally use an incandescent toothpick. Light it on, blow away the flame, and bring the incandescent tip under the wire. If you have many in the same area, wait until you have all of them installed. An incandescent matchstick will do the same. One last word of advice : practice the heat tensioning on some form of mule. A little too close, and the wire will snap. You can always replace it, but pulling the remnant piece of wire from its hole can be vey difficult. Ask me how I know ... Did I mention that CA is VERY resistant to tensile forces ? Hubert

Pulling the monofilament under a Sharpie tip will color it any way you want. Black will make it more visible. 0.2 will then look better. For silver, I put some Rub’n Buff on a piece of paper towel, and pull the wire through the folded paper. Hubert PS: btw, after a long search, I finally found some flat monofilament (in dayglo orange ) , although it is a bit on the heavy side. Spending time on an internet search on fishing supply sites and forums may be worth it. And if you find something, do not hesitate to share your finding. I can’t remember where I found my flat monofilament, but shared it at the time on LSP.

CA loves nylon monofilament. And it is also at its strongest resisting tensile forces (the reason why it is so difficult to pry your glued fingers apart). There is no real need for a hook at the end of the wire. Hubert

Agreed on the DSPIAE nippers. Mine are Xuron or Tamiya, and I thought they were pretty good, but not nearly good enough for IBG’s plastic ... As a tool freak, I am putting all my weight (and it’s considerable, believe me) on the brakes to avoid starting a tools’ shopping spree... Such an urge could be costly Hubert