HubertB

Ok. I’ll have another go .... Do-17 Hubert

Yes, I know. That is why I said « existing in kit form » . Still an unlikely choice (but Paul did it on commission). Hubert

Lovely kit, beautifully finished and weathered : it has that unique « well lived » look. Hubert

I can’t remember where I read that Hataka lacquers were good, and acrylics only so so ... Hubert

If it’s about what does not exist ... HP Heyford, HP Hampden, Lockheed 14, CF-100, CF-105, B-35, Saab J-35, Sikorsky S-39, Amiot 143, Boeing Clipper, Boeing Stratoliner .... About unlikely aeroplanes existing in kit form, how about the 1/24 Bugatti 100 P and Gloster VI ? Hubert

With you on this one, Rog. I much preferred the glazed-nose sans-turret versions (not that it would change my purchasing decision - as I am doing camoed things. So a totally irrelevant opinion for the guys selling it ) Hubert

Extremely well done, and an outstanding result Hubert

Anyone has anything to say about the cowlings' shape ? Hubert ()

Be aware that the R-2800 had pressurised ignition lines (to avoid arc-sparkles at altitude). Therefore, the ignition lines were metal tubes, and not braided cables. This is one instance where a smooth wire will be more useful than a braided one. Hubert PS : and I love that cockpit

I went and checked the LSP thread on this kit. It effectively went south in one day ... so sad ... ( in the meantime I went to a modelling expo south of Lisbon, in Montijo. Some nice kits, not many in 1/32 - about 6 or 7 overall -, of which at least 2 P-51s and 3 Spitfires, and all «plagued » -IMHO- by ‘Spanish-school’ type of finish, but for a nice, if a bit bland in the hall’s poor lighting, Tempest). It’s a nice subject, it’s a 1/32 twin, it spanned WWII to Vietnam, and it can even allow some civvies’ schemes. Rejoice, and get on with the wrong cowlings, whether you modify them, design-and-print new ones, or wait for the inevitable correction and detailing sets Hubert

Hey, this is good, basic, logical, detective work ! Much better than wild « gutfeel » speculations . And in this case, it goes to show that the A-26 was not such a big airframe. Oh, and a last mathematical reminder : a 1/32 kit has roughly 11.4 (11.390625 to be precise) times more « presence » than the same aircraft in 1/72. Hubert

Civilian, with lots of red, yellow, blue, white ... At worst, NMF or silver lacquer with yellow wings ... Now that is REAL taste Hubert

The result is well worth the efforts and the sentiments that triggered this build. Well done Hunert

Next should be a B-47 flying Iroquois testbed, in 1/32 of course Hubert

Yes, oven cleaner (one containing caustic soda) will remove chrome just like it will remove paint. Put the parts in a plastic bag, spray them with oven cleaner, and let it act for an hour or more. Rinse, et voilà ! And in case not everything has been removed, repeat the operation, and scrub gently with a toothbrush (not the one you use for yourself ) Hubert

Cool project. And, btw, the conversion is not only in the canopy area, but also at the bottom, where you need to modify the bomb bay. Hubert

Lancastrian ... Hubert

To complete my answer. Since you have an old, yellowed, canopy, and need to vac-form a new one in PETG, you have two options: 1) Make a female mold around the old, yellowed canopy. This is the best option for vac-forming, whether the part is transparent or opaque. But it has some constraints, like needing a hole to suck the heated PETG in the female cavity. The diameter of this hole should be about 50% fo the thickness of the material formed to avoid any dimple. One way to get it is to drill a same diameter hole in the old part, insert a piece of monofilament in it, and pour the mold material around the part and the monofilament. When the model is set, remove the monofilament, et voilà, you have a hole for succion ! 2) Make a male mold by pouring your mold material in the old canopy, than vacform, or plug-form the heated PETG around this male mold. Whichever way you go, remember that PETG loves humidity, and will store it between its molecules. Thus, when you heat it, if you go above a certain limit (170° C), bubbles will appear within the plastic , created by water vapour. To avoid this, one way is dehydrate the PETG sheet for two hours at 50° C. Another way is to heat the PETG by plunging it in boiling oil (160° C). And Peter from Airscale seem to have been successful by plunging the sheet in boiling water. HTH Hubert

Hi Dale, I’m afraid you won’t like my answer : « Make new ones ! » Old vac-form canopies were made of PVC, which yellows and becomes brittle with age. This is due to ultra-violets, and there is not much you can do about it, but for keeping your models, including when finished, in the dark ... More recent vacs are made of PETG (one commercial name is « Vivak ») which is more tolerant of UVs, and does not seem to yellow with age (so far) Hubert

Apparently, they have reworked the CAD. That’s what Neil says anyway. The nose on the 3D renderings for the new 1/48 kit certainly looks flatter than the 1/32 kit... There are other issues however, like the outboard engine nacelles, which may not have been addressed, as most comments focused on the wrong nose shape. Hubert

Beautiful decals. Natural wood effects are becoming easier every day with this kind of products. Hubert

Sorry to hear about your parents, Ernie. Having lived through the ordeal of taking care of elderly, demented, parents, I know how tough this can be. And I had also to go through the sinuous, tortuous, mean, actions of a manipulative sister who did her utmost - and succeeded - to separate my parents from their two sons, even though I was the one mandated judicially to be the legal guardian of their interests. Both my parents are dead now, my father the last one. His funeral was the last time I saw my sister. She can rot in Hell for all I care. I refused any inheritance after his death. The family has been broken by the wrongdoings of this b#&%. Just another confirmation of the old adage that you choose your friends, but not your family ... Hubert

That’s it ! You inoculated the bug to me ! Now I have ordered a P-51 kit, to turn it into a racer, with some Draw Decals on it. I have ordered the SWS Mustang IV. Why The Zoukei Mura kit? Because : 1) it is cheaper in Europe than the Tamiya one. With my experiences of the Portuguese Post, I did not want to dare some more exotic countries of origin. 2) this version has the 3 different canopies, and the two different propellers, so my choices remain open for which racer I will do ( although I am leaning strongly towards « Voodoo ») You will take all the blame. Plus I will also order the California Fire Dpt decals for my OV-10 A kit. Will you send me food vouchers when I am poor, because of your bad influence ? Keep the great work coming ! Hubert

Indeed they did. But you know me. Boooooring camoed aircraft, roundels (even if these ones had "hooks" on them ) : not my cup-o'-tea ... The one below on the other hand (pic posted under Fair Use conditions) Hubert

You can always convert the newly released D into a C-87 ... no turret-seams issues, and as a bonus, you can even develop new, correct-diameter, cowlings for an early C-87. You’re « just » left with getting the Davis wing right ... Hubert