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4 minutes ago, BlrwestSiR said:

Nice! The 90hp bump is 30 more than my engine makes stock. Guess I won't be winning any drag races against you. Lol. 

 

Carl

Actually I'm no hoon ... so it won't be sideways round any corners soon ...

BUT the thing drives so much less restricted ... the sound is to die for - expecially cold starts in the morning! ... and I'm averaging 1L/100Kms less in fuel consumption.

I can't wait to get the videos edited for the Tube ...

Rog :)

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That's awesome Rog, the exhaust looks like Corsa? I have Corsa on my Corvette, and I put a high perf cold air intake on my Tahoe as well as Borla Exhaust........... like you say, the sound is fabulous, and performance is a LOT better ! My fuel consumption got better actually... as long as I keep my foot out of it.. :rolleyes:  I'm very happy for you.... the new set looks gorgeous, and the finish on the tips is really smooth..... I keep the inside of my tips on my Corvette with the use of a Power Ball, some good chrome polish and a wipe with a micro fiber cloth, they shine all the time....

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22 hours ago, Jeff said:

That's awesome Rog, the exhaust looks like Corsa? I have Corsa on my Corvette, and I put a high perf cold air intake on my Tahoe as well as Borla Exhaust........... like you say, the sound is fabulous, and performance is a LOT better ! My fuel consumption got better actually... as long as I keep my foot out of it.. :rolleyes:  I'm very happy for you.... the new set looks gorgeous, and the finish on the tips is really smooth..... I keep the inside of my tips on my Corvette with the use of a Power Ball, some good chrome polish and a wipe with a micro fiber cloth, they shine all the time....

Corvette ... swoon!

Is that the set up that was designed to win Le-Mans?? 

The exhaust - headers (1 & 3/4 primary's in a 3' collector) and hi-flow cats included was AUD $1599 from a local called Empire Performance ...  Designed by the guy who does the dyno tuning specifically to fit the Holden Commodore - it's a modular stainless steel unit. The VCM OTR intake complete with blanking panels was $575 ... It has a K&N panel filter ... OTR systems were specially designed here for the Holden Commodore (exported there as a Chev SS) by a number of companies ... My Auto Tech didn't like them because engines that he'd rebuilt had filth all through the intake manifold. He suggested the pod filter set up (again K&N) which was designed for the previous model (Exported there as a Pontiac G8). I searched forever and couldn't find one in stock and was eventually advised by K&N Australia that we wouldn't be getting any more into the country.

Mitch, from WA Performance - who has been working on Holden/GM products for over 30 years - and who was used by Empire to do the post mod tune said that the first OTR models didn't pinch the filter tight enough or the casing expanded in the heat and let too much unfiltered air through and that was the likely reason for my Auto Techs aversion to them. He said the second Iteration of the VCM was much better all round but suggested I clean the filter panel every 2-3000 Km's anyway ... so with that in mind, I bought a spare - so I can wash, dry and re-oil at my leisure :)

I'll have to keep your tip handy for cleaning my ... tips!! 

Rog :)

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I just got this for the ‘66 Mustang project.  It’s the last of the big ticket items I needed.

pmpACQDfj

 

It’s a 9” 3:50 gear with limited slip and modular iron bearing carrier.  I’ll be working on the Mustang on the 24th since my son is coming home for a few days and wants to work on it with me.  I also have a different rear disc setup to install as well. 

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58 minutes ago, Artful69 said:

Corvette ... swoon!

Is that the set up that was designed to win Le-Mans?? 

The exhaust - headers (1 & 3/4 primary's in a 3' collector) and hi-flow cats included was AUD $1599 from a local called Empire Performance ...  Designed by the guy who does the dyno tuning specifically to fit the Holden Commodore - it's a modular stainless steel unit. The VCM OTR intake complete with blanking panels was $575 ... It has a K&N panel filter ... OTR systems were specially designed here for the Holden Commodore (exported there as a Chev SS) by a number of companies ... My Auto Tech didn't like them because engines that he'd rebuilt had filth all through the intake manifold. He suggested the pod filter set up (again K&N) which was designed for the previous model (Exported there as a Pontiac G8). I searched forever and couldn't find one in stock and was eventually advised by K&N Australia that we wouldn't be getting any more into the country.

Mitch, from WA Performance - who has been working on Holden/GM products for over 30 years - and who was used by Empire to do the post mod tune said that the first OTR models didn't pinch the filter tight enough or the casing expanded in the heat and let too much unfiltered air through and that was the likely reason for my Auto Techs aversion to them. He said the second Iteration of the VCM was much better all round but suggested I clean the filter panel every 2-3000 Km's anyway ... so with that in mind, I bought a spare - so I can wash, dry and re-oil at my leisure :)

I'll have to keep your tip handy for cleaning my ... tips!! 

Rog :)

VERY, VERY cool, $1599 is a good price, for all you got and the extra performance..... that is so cool... would be great to hear it to..

This is what I use for the inside of my pipes, and a GOOD chrome polish

https://www.amazon.ca/Mothers-05140-PowerBall-Polishing-Tool/dp/B0007RDVD4/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=mothers+powerball&qid=1608395478&sr=8-5

 with an extension.. works a charm...

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  • 2 months later...

I recently ordered a locally patented product for my ute ... The "Ute Barrier" from South Aust ....

It's a cool adjustable device for dividing up the tub of the ute into compartments so that stuff doesn't roll around everywhere ... It might be a cool Idea for bigger pick up trucks in the USA also?? ... 

It arrived today - although It might be a few days before I get time to install it ... when I do I'll post some pics ... but I have a priority on setting up the modelling bench for a serious assembly line first.

LxlsFdh.jpg

ado6WBp.jpg

Rog :)

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On 9/13/2020 at 6:57 PM, Clunkmeister said:

Spent a bit of time at the shop yesterday, installing some Da fixated compressor brackets.  I’ve been mocking these up in card, the cutting and welding Steel sheet. A few minor modifications later and we have these....

 

2268BA7F-BC71-4C00-B947-A834973E2E58.jpeg

5F123FE0-FC23-43D4-84A2-3A3D032C1D8A.jpeg

306B28E6-21C0-4A11-821B-3BFF8503A3AE.jpeg

D22A33F1-154F-4032-B650-EDE5C0C2CCD0.jpeg

Holy cow, just saw this thread for the first time.  Sweet car Ernie!  

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Wow, my simple center section and brake conversion exploded in my face....

i built the car with a 4 link rear that included a bracket that bolted to the top of the axle housing utilizing the top three bolts that hold in the center section.  New center is much thicker than stock, bracket would not fit.  So I had to build up welded in brackets on the housing. 
1Ydoo1.jpg

Here it is all back in the car. Lots of re-engineering brake lines, parking brake cables and suspension.  But I have about an hours work or less to get it off the stands and back on the ground. 
eb6gz3.jpg

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8 minutes ago, Martinnfb said:

Element has lots of potential :)

ct-engineering-supercharger-kit_LRG.jpg

They do indeed. I was thinking head swap to a DOHC one from a 1st gen TSX. Would bump the redline up to 8k and an extra 40hp.

Don't know if the supercharger is an easier option. Or do both :lol:

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Saw the Element the other day. Couldn't test drive it as the battery was shot and wouldn't even hold a charge. The owner agreed to let me get it towed to the dealer I use for a safety inspection this Friday.  So if there's no other issues beside the dead battery which he's agreed to cover then we're going to go for it. 

image.thumb.jpg.9e2eb88b5573ea8d631c3603df754ada.jpg

 

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This galloping POS will finally come off the hot rod SOD and get brought back in for completion.

35 Ford 3 window coupe that’s been beating around my place for 25 years or so.  It had a 2” chop put in the roof years back, which definitely helps get rid of the bubbletop look. Plus the canvass top opening has been filled as well.

The frame is original Ford, but has been boxed and a Mustang ll front end and narrowed 9” rear installed. Unfortunately, the Mustang front end is not what I want. It’s going back to a traditional Ford solid axle front and will keep the 9” rear. That, along with some rear fender skirts will give it the early 50s custom taildragger cruiser look I want.

Powertrain is 1957 Ford 292 with a T5 gearbox. 292 has the rear T-Bird sump, PCV system, and front timing cover mount like a flathead. An electric cooling fan will be used, as there isn’t enough room with the 292 to use the engine driven fan.

This thing’s been on my mind for many, many years...

The completed car is similar to what I have in mind, y’all except that the blue car hasn’t had the top chopped like mine has.

 

9BFABD15-6E74-469B-88C8-48582EF526E8.jpeg

01D476DA-672C-498A-9633-E8FFA06CAF1F.jpeg

ADEA7472-9AE7-469C-9F54-1BE462050008.jpeg

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17 hours ago, Clunkmeister said:

This galloping POS will finally come off the hot rod SOD and get brought back in for completion.

35 Ford 3 window coupe that’s been beating around my place for 25 years or so.  It had a 2” chop put in the roof years back, which definitely helps get rid of the bubbletop look. Plus the canvass top opening has been filled as well.

The frame is original Ford, but has been boxed and a Mustang ll front end and narrowed 9” rear installed. Unfortunately, the Mustang front end is not what I want. It’s going back to a traditional Ford solid axle front and will keep the 9” rear. That, along with some rear fender skirts will give it the early 50s custom taildragger cruiser look I want.

Powertrain is 1957 Ford 292 with a T5 gearbox. 292 has the rear T-Bird sump, PCV system, and front timing cover mount like a flathead. An electric cooling fan will be used, as there isn’t enough room with the 292 to use the engine driven fan.

This thing’s been on my mind for many, many years...

The completed car is similar to what I have in mind, y’all except that the blue car hasn’t had the top chopped like mine has.

 

9BFABD15-6E74-469B-88C8-48582EF526E8.jpeg

01D476DA-672C-498A-9633-E8FFA06CAF1F.jpeg

ADEA7472-9AE7-469C-9F54-1BE462050008.jpeg

I think the ZZ Top Eliminator rod was a 33 Ford, so presumably this is the follow up model?

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1 hour ago, Landlubber Mike said:

Damn Ernie, you're forcing me to admit I have a serious man crush on you.  Such sweet rides! 

That thing needs a Dickie seat...

(Plus a Tommy gun, some white spats... And a bunch o'fives!)

arts-graphics-2005_1159879a.jpg.c7bb355363749447c435c6400c345848.jpg

S

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Ok ... While I was waiting for package number 4 to arrive, I got to work on installing the Ute Barrier. Konstantin, the guy who owns the company that produces the product (really just him and a couple of associates), is really very helpful ... I had to call him a couple of times during the process and he had no hesitation in giving me any assistance or advice.

The first step in the process was unpacking all the items and checking to make sure everything was present, but once that was done I had to roll the ute forward partially out of the garage so I had room to work ... I used a couple of spare broom handles (I have NO idea why I had them spare in the store room - but they were ideal for the task so I'm not arguing!) to prop up the ute hard lid after disconnecting the gas struts.

27glbif.jpg

Along the inside top edge of and on either side of the tub, there are 3 anchor points: one near the front, one in the middle and one near the tail gate ... These are for securing a cargo net over any load carried. From the factory these are usually bolted in with a hex bolt but there were accessory options available for loops to be fitted as a substitute for the hex bolts (as shown below) and my vehicle was bought with these already on:

MZ6e2r0.jpg

When the hard lid was fitted, the loops on the middle and rear anchor points were removed and replaced ... the rearmost anchor points have an additional bracket with an adjustable u-bolt latch point bolted on so that the hard lid can close (much the same way that a door latch works. The middle anchor point loop was replaced with stud bolt ball mount for the gas strut supports for the ute lid ...

VCJTEVv.jpg

Now ... ALL of these anchor point bolts need to be removed and replaced with "stand-off's" (as shown below) in order to fit the barrier gate adjustment rails along the front to rear length of the tub:

XKiBFMm.jpg

The larger stand-offs are bolted into the front and middle anchor points while the smaller stand-off is fitted to the rear anchor point. The ute tub narrows a little at the rear so the rear anchor points are a fraction closer together (looking left to right) than those in the middle or front, hence the shorter stand-offs.

Annnnnnnnd ... it's at this point that I run into my first problem ... I undo the bolt for the rearmost anchor point and screw in the stand-off ... The rail is supposed to be bolted onto the stand-off but the gap between the stand-off and the downward adjustment and fixing nuts for the ute lid u-bolt anchor is insufficient.

OevB9ig.jpg

I spent a few hours that day trying to adjust the bracket positioning or figuring some other sort of work around all to no avail ... The "problem" was only really a lack of about 2-5mm of gap - and after chatting with Konstantin we came to the conclusion that the best option would be a trip to Bunnings for some spare bits that could be used to replace the stand off with "spacers". I might trim down the stand off at a later date but for now I lack the tools required for that job.

sRyh0IP.jpg

I was not sure of exactly what would be needed so I bought a range of stuff as seen above. As you can see from the open packet I went with using a couple of 50mm black hex bolts, using the nut to assist with spacing (there were originally 4 in the packet). For adjustment I used a packet of the flat black washers seen above ... 5 were needed ... and the result is:

3SrrQjt.jpg

Not bad :) 

With that problem out of the way its just a matter of bolting up the rest of the rail to the stand-off's ...

XdPmkzE.jpg

While on the earlier phone call with Konstantin, he advised me of the two special attachment points on the rail for the gas strut ball mount - on either side of the middle stand-off rail anchor point. He seemed to think that the best position for fitment was on the back side of the rail (between the tub liner and the rail) ... my gut instinct was that this was wrong ... but I went with the designers instructions ... needless to say that I tried it at both front and rearmost positions and neither allowed me to close the lid ...

Annnnnnd then I run into the second problem ... The barrel nut thingy that's inserted into the rail isn't secured well and starts turning so I can't undo the ball stud!! ... I tried various methods of loosening the stud ... none worked ... 

y0xljM1.jpg

UxC7vNr.jpg

Meanwhile I disconnected the gas strut on the opposite side ... went through with fitting the rail and fitted the ball mount stud on the opposite side of the rail ... annnnnnnnd ta-da!!

beMWgmo.jpg

At that point Konstantin decided to just send me a replacement rail ... since he had some spares laying around - and also another ball mount stud - which is why I took the photo above (with the steel rule) for him...

(Insert Grace Randolph "Sooooo" here) ... now I'm just waiting on the rail to arrive here ... and then I can finish the fit out. More later ...

Rog :)

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33 minutes ago, Wumm said:

Lol Rog,

There's more WIP pictures from your Ute than any of your models here!

S

Steve :lol: :lol: :lol: ...

I know ... I know ... Smart-ar$e!! :D

BUT ... I'm looking to change that within the next few days ... finally (yeah, yeah)

If you remember the discussion that we were having regarding unit numbers??

Feel free to stop by and drop some science when it starts 

Rog :)

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My 'Pavement Princess" ( My Tahoe ) is going in today for a ceramic coating, and a wrap on the front bumper for protection from rock chips.... this is a 4 day operation.....  she should look really great when done... can't wait, ... Cathy's new ride has the ceramic coating and that stuff is amazing.... expensive, but amazing....

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Got the paperwork all done on the Element yesterday morning and finally got to bring her home. 

 

PXL_20210329_210647447.thumb.jpg.51350a5ca8e5fc8d84d298d890d2b4cf.jpg

There's a recall that just started last month on them. The recall involves an inspection of the rear trailing arm mounts and those that are failing are being bought out by Honda. Which is starting to make the ones that pass be more in demand. 

 

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