DocRob

Looking good Phil. I never thought about buffing AK's Extreme Metals and have the feeling that wouldn't change the look a lot. I would be interested in your experiences. Cheers Rob

Very dynamic display, I like it a lot, with the flag adding a lot of contrast. It's always good, to see something different in modelling, chapeau. BTW, welcome to LSM, you will notice, that you found the right place of laid back plastic nuts, at least, I hope so. Cheers Rob

Go gold, 'b' is not bad either, but chrome rims on a Stratos? I hope 'c' is only a joke and makes the Lancia look like the piece of soap, the original donator looks like . Cheers Rob

Call yourself lucky, discussing about a kit subject with your wife. I've given up on that, after my last try of showing her my Lozenge camouflaged Siemen Schuckert D.III twins. She said, the Tarnstoff reminds her of the anti graffiti design on the seats of the Berlin subway. Hell yes, the effect is the same, it's camouflaging, but how can you compare . The only way, I can get to her, is discussing technical aspect. As an engineer, she has a wide interest into engines, gears, ..., like, what was that about the Oberursel Umlaufmotor... Can't wait to see your Santa ride grow, is there still something left from the original plastic ? Cheers Rob

Thanks a lot for the detailed explanation. The resulting pics look great, but show the reason, why I was hesitating to buy a camera for snorkeling. On my island, the water normally is very transparent, when the sun is shining and there are only small waves, but the blueish greenish refraction effect of the water is strongly visible, even in shallow water of two or three meter depth on photos. The only real solution is artificial light, which makes the equipment heavy and expensive and/or the use of software to reduce the effect. It seems, I have to rely on my brain HD to take underwater pictures and ponder about, how amazingly well the human eye adopts to difficult lighting conditions, where technique still partly fails. Most of the fishes you see while snorkeling, are relatively small, colourful and you have to try to get really close. sometimes you spot some bigger rays or a turtle. Octopus, Sepia, and Morenas are common and sometimes you spot large flock of fishes, sometimes with hunting Barilotes (small type of tuna) darting through. There is quite a mix of close up, motion capturing, which a camera had to fulfil. The depth range is between surface and 10 meters. Cheers Rob

I hope for you that your second you is not made by Mikro Mir. If so you would mess up your working situation eternally, without installing a lot of AM and do lots of grinding, which could accumulate to more work, than you had before, while working . Cheers Rob and a Happy New Year

I'm not Fran, but it will be a Revell kit . Cheers Rob

Thanks for posting Fran, my favorite is also the SR-71 and I hope they get it right. The other (re-) releases are not very tempting to me . Cheers Rob

Very interesting and nice pics as well. I'm pondering about what camera to use for snorkeling here on my island. I will not go professional or with a heave lighting equipment. What type of camera do you use for your photos? Cheers Rob

Wow, the bike looks very real, nice work on the details and painting. I wish, there were more interesting high quality bike kits in large scales on the market. I could go for one of my old KTM 950 SM, which looks a bit more badass. Cheers Rob

Thanks Gaz, but the only night fighter in my stash is the ZM HE-219, where I have some metal antlers and a Fly Arado-234 in midbuild, with a Master set for the antennas. Cheers Rob

Something about compability of the Lukgraph Le Rhone engine. I went the extra mile and tested all cowlings in my stash, for whom a Le Rhone engine would be suitable, maybe somebody is interested. Mikro Mir Fokker D.V/E.VIII kit cowling fits (look at the plastic and it's one of the better parts) Aviattic Fokker D.V/E.VIII fits (note the shape differences to the above kit part, the Aviattic cowling shows four full cylinders, were the Mikro Mir one shows two full and two halfed cylinders) Wingnut Wings Le Rhone Camel fits tightly, not sure if it would turn, because I didn't assembled the firewall attachment Roden Fokker DR.1 cowl fits tightly as well, no idea if it is able to turn. And this is how the primed engine looks, ready to receive metal colours. Cheers Rob

A clear 10 on the wow-scale. Everything looks great, the paintjob, the detailing, the interior, chapeau, you nailed it. I have to get me a F-104 once, I was tempted several times, but haven't bought one. Such a consequent no-frill design, with only minimal additions to the engine, to form a plane out of it. Cheers Rob

Until now, only the V is soldered. The connection is made with Albion Alloys four way Connecto connectors, which are bent the way the three struts have to align and the fourth is for mounting the wing on. The long struts will be soldered later, while attaching the wing. It may be necessary to shorten them a little, but this is too vague to be done now. Cheers Rob

That looks sweet, the Jeep in the scene might have looked a bit too cramped, there is enough for the eye to find in the dio. Cheers Rob

Indeed Gaz, the material is very forgiving and the process seem to allow differently casted shapes, which reduces the parts count. As I'm new to printed parts, I tested primer and glues on residues. Tamiya rattle can primer doesn't do harm, but you definitely need CA for gluing, Plastic cement doesn't work. Cheers Rob

Your Pfalz is looking great. It's one of the most elegant planes of it's era . I finished mine as well this year, and would build another, if I could get a hold on one. Cheers Rob

Great output and a place to put them, nice. Cheers Rob

Here you can see, how the engines build up. On the left side is the CSM offer, on the right Lukgraph, which includes steel wire for the pushrods. Both kits don't have the spark plug wiring included. The Lukgraph parts after a simple cleanup session. The 3D-printed material is not as brittle as resin, it doesn't break that easy (These are my first printed parts) Cheers Rob

I compared my engine options, without showing the kit one. It's a little bit better detailed, than other plastic parts of the kit, but I only plan to use it in parts as a dummy for the right attachment. Lukgraph Le Rhone type J engine, 3D printed, with great detail and relatively easy clean up and construction. Copper State Models Oberursel UR.II engine in resin and PE, also very nice, but needs a little bit more work Comparison of the engine cases I think I will use the Lukgraph engine and use the CSM in my Roden DR.I. There are some differences between the two, but I read somewhere, that some captured Le Rhone engines were used in German Fokker E.V / D.VIII. Cheers Rob

Nice variety for a German only builder and quite some masterpieces among them. Looks like you had a great 2020 model wise. Cheers Rob

Great output and nicely done, congrats. Cheers Rob

Nice, I made on myself, when I was young. It was the first complex construction, everybody in my company had to build, while getting the education as an engineer. The final quality verdict was, how low you could go with the air pressure and the machine was still working (We used air instead of steam for the tests). It was great fun. Cheers Rob

I like the FT, well done Harv. Cheers Rob

Better a good one than hundreds of mediocre builds . The PZL looks great. Cheers Rob