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DocRob

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  1. DocRob
    I have different types of metal pigments, but the best, because they are the finest and so far polishable are these from Uschi van der Rosten, but there are only three types, steel iron and chrome. For your case, i would use steel or maybe iron. The Scale75 metal colours are relatively new, but I used them for detail painting on several builds since then, lately on the innards of the Ammoknight and on the Fokker D.VIII, but only by brush. Cheers Rob
  2. DocRob
    There is another brand out there, which covers another important aspect in metal tracks to me, time and effort saving. I have some sets from Easy Metal Tracks for my Panzer IV derivates and they assemble easy, without glue, just bending some tiny latches on the inside of each track link. They are in the price range of Friul and others and are maybe hard to source. For me there is no real substitute for metal tracks, as they sag perfect, and I like to blacken them chemically, to get a perfect base layer. The cement free assembly helps, because there are no CA residues to hinder the blackening. Easy Metal Links (DE) (scalemates.com) Cheers Rob
  3. DocRob
    Nice and subtle job on painting and decaling, which lead to a very nice model. Your A-20 looks great, John. Cheers Rob
  4. DocRob
    I sometimes use light grey on very fine parts, which should be matte metallic. When you lean back and look at your last pic, it looks almost grey. Some carefully rubbed on steel pigments may enhance the metallic appearance. Most brushable metallic paints have a too coarse grain for my liking and do absolutely not look like the real thing. The only exception I sometimes make are the Scale75 metallic sets, which behave a bit better than others I tried. METAL and ALCHEMY STEEL paint set - Scale75 Between history and legend METAL and ALCHEMY GOLDEN paint set - Scale75 Between history and legend Cheers Rob
  5. DocRob
    Working with lathes on metal does include a lot of learning and understanding of the different metals and their characteristics. Metallurgy is a wide field and you absolutely need the knowledge, to get decent results, guess how I know . Cheers Rob
  6. DocRob
    I couldn't have said it better than Hubert, thanks for that. Another aspect in working with metals by machines is, most kinds of metal need cooling or lubricating while working on. You can't do that with the Proxxon. When I was young, I worked in light engineering for years, using all types of machines for a wide array of metals and these were definitely another breed. The tiny Proxon is only sufficent for small wooden parts. It has a relatively low torque and you can fit long parts through it's spindle only up to a diameter of 10 mm. You are able to work with bigger diameters, but I doubt, the torque will be enough. It's a machine specialized for working on the masts and yards, which have a surprisingly variety of conical areas or indentions and this is, where this machine will shine, working with a chisel or sanding paper. I got the pair relatively cheap and they will be used for my shipbuilding projects with the additional benefit of working relatively quite and not covering too much space on the bench. Cheers Rob
  7. DocRob
    Gracias Amigos, this fresh cut wood has to dry for some time. In the next winter it will give our house a nice aroma when the fireplace is in use. Cheers Rob
  8. DocRob
    What is better than tools, right guys, machiiines. Today, I received my Proxxon Lathe and disc sander, which will be very helpful for my wooden ship projects. The sander is equipped with adhesive sanding discs, which are easy to interchange. the adjustable table and the tiny gap, will make it ideal for sanding planks and other small parts and the best, it's relatively quiet. The lathe will be helpful shaping the masts with different diameters and sanding the yards conical. To add to the woodworking experience, I recieved almost two tons of firewood today. Finest Brezo and Haya wood, which are different types of beechwood. My back can tell you something about the two tons . Cheers Rob
  9. DocRob
    I thought about this too, seems to be an interesting one. Cheers Rob
  10. DocRob
    Noice Jeroen, where I would have closed the hatch, you made a mini kit out of it . Cheers Rob
  11. DocRob
    Good to know, otherways, it would lead to panicked outcries like: 'I said flaps down, not up...' . Than god for international standards. Cheers Rob
  12. DocRob
    I'm sure you will Gaz, your whitewash looks great and will be enhanced by the use of oils. For the washable white, I'm not so sure, I haven't tried the stuff and it will be tested thoroughly before use. If it fails, it will be hairspray too . Cheers Rob
  13. DocRob
    I just found a new product from HGW. It's a masking set, unfortunately for the Tamiya kit, for masking the body panels. If they fit, that could be a serious time saver for a NMF bird. P-51D MUSTANG - SURFACE PANELS MASK - 1/32 - MIR/32008 (hgwmodels.cz) Cheers Rob
  14. DocRob
    When I visited Planes of Fame in Chino, California some years ago, I bought a book about the 506th Fighter Group, signed by Abner m. Aust, the last WWII ace. If I do a NMF Mustang, it will be one of the schemes in the book. Luckily the decals are included for some of the planes in different scales and they are printed by Techmod, which is a good sign. Cheers Rob This is the book These are my favorite schemes: This is the signed back cover
  15. DocRob
    Very interested to see your aluminum results in your WIP. I had to enlarge my spray booth to and used the good working fan of the old one with a transparent plastic container as the new booth. After some cutting and duct-taping, I added some flexible LED strips around, finished. The booth still works t my satisfaction after three years of use and was a real cheapo. Cheers Rob Old one not fitting the ZM TA-152 Better Finished
  16. DocRob
    Nice progress on the U boat. The wooden deck looks great as does the Flak. Do you plan to substitute the turret railings? They seem to be a bit oversized and shouldn't be to hard to replace with brass. Cheers Rob
  17. DocRob
    Exactly the right decision, to stay away from black for weathering. The way you did it, it remarkably pops and brings everything to live. For removing oil colours, I use cotton swabs only on a few occasions. I prefer a flat midsized brush, which has a good holding capacity for paint and thinner. This makes the oil effects more controllable, as you can play with the amount of thinner and the dampness of the brush. As a side effect there is less plastic trash, for which some sea turtles will be thankful. Cheers Rob
  18. DocRob
    Gracias Carl, as this paintjob requires a thorough plan, it's easy to do a step by step. Until now, everything was easy and redoable, now comes the make or brake part . Cheers Rob
  19. DocRob
    Thanks Gaz, but what you see is the chipping . The idea is, to apply the colour onto the rust and leave it partly uncovered, where the corrosion won the battle. I will use a fine brush, applying the paint in little strokes and dots and build the colour up this way, at least, that's the plan. Cheers Rob
  20. DocRob
    Thanks for the encouragement Kai. Yesterday, when I was taking the photos, I thought about a powersuit left to rot in a muddy lake, replicated by acrylic water with lots of algae and other vegetation around. Let's wait and see, there is a second Ammoknight in the box, ... Cheers Rob
  21. DocRob
    The winter wash looks perfect, you can't beat hairspray for these type of camo, although, I will at least try the washable white on a dummy part. Good to know, that Panzer Putty is such a menace with lacquers. I used it with acrylics until now and had no problems at all. Like Kai said, the residues will be mostly hidden and a nice winter camo needs a healthy dose of slush and mud . Cheers Rob
  22. DocRob
    Congrats Gaz, under the matte coat, everything clicked together, you built a beauty. Isn't it fully rewarding to have a build with so many obstacles ready to display. Like Kai said, I like the chosen plane with its unique scheme. Cheers Rob
  23. DocRob
    Great fix with the canopy. and a nice journey to follow your build, but as an 'Alter Preuße', I will be in the front row of your next build. With brass and rigging involved, which only raises even more interest. Cheers Rob
  24. DocRob
    Looking comfortingly good Phil. You are my current dummy, like we say in surfing , if the air is clear with your build, my cowardly me is starting mine. Progress is looking fine and what is to resist, with the powerful lines of a Mustang. Looking at yours, I may change my plan for building it as a British Mustang IV with camo to a NMF one. Cheers Rob
  25. DocRob
    With most kits, I apply the base colours on a coat of primer and then add the effects like rust and others onto it. The only exception in my builds is the use of the hairspray method, which I really like for heavy weathering exactly for the fact, that it is right, building up the layers like on real subjects and erase layer(s) above. With the Ammoknight, I try something different. I build the layers of paint and rust up from the lowest layer, being primer, corrosion being the second layer and the base colour being the upmost. It's an experiment and the powersuit with it's organic shape and the 1/20 scale seems to be the perfect canvas. The difficulty I see for the next step of painting is, that there is no room for mistakes, because it's essentiell, that the colouration must be coherent on the hole body and there is no taking back. I'm not sure, if I can master that, but will try. Meanwhile, there are some pictures of my stomp footed friend, who looks, like he had a great time somewhere in a lake . Cheers Rob
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