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DocRob

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  1. DocRob
    Have you checked the Ammo of Mig stuff? BNA (this is your ZIP code?) has three different sizes available. I don't know, if the stuff is round cross sectioned, but I would guess so. Cheers Rob
  2. DocRob
    I would try to get some Uschi stuff. They have three different diameters and I checked the 'standard' line with an optivisor and it looks round shaped. Uschi´s high stretch elastic rigging - Uschi van der Rosten Carpet Decals (uschivdr.com) Cheers Rob
  3. DocRob
    Nice seeing you tackle the Ansaldo. I thought a lot of times about buying one, but kept it for later when I'm grown up model wise. Cheers Rob
  4. DocRob
    For Tamiya Acrylics I work with Mr. Levelling Thinner in my airbrush, a dream combo. I have reduced clogging and finer spray and a longer drying time of course. Thanks to Ernies persistence, I tried this combination, after I had no luck at all using the levelling thinner with colours of other brands, like AK and Lifecolour, which dosen't mix well in the best case or went lump in the worst. Cheers Rob
  5. DocRob
    Great idea Harv, it's nice to have an image of you guys. While looking for a picture, I realized, how rarely I got photographed, usually I'm the guy behind the camera. Cheers Rob
  6. DocRob
    I use a mix of Tamiya Flat and Pledge as dullcoat. You have to be careful about the amount of Tamiya Flat though, to prevent fogging. The great builder FichtenFoo experimented with that mix and I had the same results like him. Another side note. If you use that mix, be careful with panelliners like the Tamiya ones on the varnish coat. They are too aggressive and will ruin the surface. Clear Coats with Future Floor Acrylic | FichtenFoo Cheers Rob
  7. DocRob
    Ahh, the wheels, just joking, they will be added, when the base is ready. There are some other bits too to be added . Cheers Rob
  8. DocRob
    Some more progress with the Niva. I added the windows, front grille, many tiny PE parts for body fittings, added the headlights and painted the backlights. The gluing of the windows proved to be not to easy. it's printed acetate which has to be cut out. Yesterday, I applied some CA on some of the cut out acetate and had no reaction. Today while gluing in the windowpanes, I seem to notice a little clouding, lets see how this will work out. I have to do a lot of touch ups, before I assemble the body to the chassis. It's not the easiest kit to build and I made some mistakes during the process. You have to find these miscues yourselves, this time, because most are simple errors, which nothing to learn off . Please remember, this car is really small, it's 1/35 scale and looks better to the blurred non macroed natural eye . Cheers Rob
  9. DocRob
    Thanks Gus, you are right, red tones are the most sensitive car paints. They fade rapidly in the sunlight, with only some exceptions. I saw some rather old Toyotas, where the red paint still looked, yeah, red. In daylight, there is no pinkish shade in the Tamiya red, it looks more, as if you added some drops of red brown and one drop of blue into the mix. I like that shade a lot for the Lada and liked it even more for the red parts of my recent 1/48 Siemens Schuckert WWI plane build, where it has just the right deepness, without being to prominent and flashy. Cheers Rob
  10. DocRob
    Your Ferret looks astonishing small compared with these Vallejo bottles, given the scale, the grade of detail is jaw dropping though. The interior looks lived in realistic and I like all the tiny bits and pieces on the body. A great build of a seemingly not too easy kit. Cheers Rob
  11. DocRob
    Looking great Phil, I hope a lot of these details remained to be seen through the bubble top. I agree with Harv, the plastic looks a bit clunky, but you did a great job here. Cheers Rob
  12. DocRob
    Thank you Gaz, I will keep your idea in mind for other builds. I have to admit, that I'm completely lost with car builds, at least with that glistening showroom look. I have one or two car kits in my stash, to train exactly this look. Then it will be time to use some polish. With the Lada, it wouldn't look right and I would have had to spent more time with surface preparation before priming. I was astonished to see that many cast marks after the aluminum layer. They skipped my eye before. Cheers Rob
  13. DocRob
    Thanks Jeff, maybe the look is caused, because the Ladas were imported individual by road from Siberia, through ice and snow, to show their trustworthiness. The Tamiya red is pretty close to the actual Lada red, that's why I used it. Thanks Carl, haven't thought about this, but you're right, these Xtreme Metals look extremely, err, metallic. Cheers Rob
  14. DocRob
    Thanks Phil, you found exactly the right words for the look I'm after, not totally rotten, but past the showroom look. It will be a little bit more refined looking, with all the tiny bits and pieces added, along with the lights. I already chromed the window frames and other tiny trimmings. Cheers Rob
  15. DocRob
    Muchas Gracias Señhor . Yesterday I sprayed the body parts with Tamiya gloss red and didn't like the result at all. With all different mixing rates with thinner and changing of the pressure, I got a little grainy result. There were also traces of the cast form still visible, that were not properly filled by the primer and red coat. I decided, to let it dry completely and today sanded with a 4000, 6000 and 8000 grid pads with moisturized surfaces. I'm not completely satisfied with the result, but the Lada is not supposed to look completely new, that's why I decided against stripping and repainting for now and against a clear coat as well. The interior and doors are only attached loosely and the next steps will be detailing with PE, chroming some details with Molotow markers and then the much dreaded adding of the window panes. Cheers Rob
  16. DocRob
    Nice, bring it on.... Cheers Rob
  17. DocRob
    Seeing your recent catch, I can understand that . Cheers Rob
  18. DocRob
    Thank you Bill, quite a trip down memory lane, kit wise. Are you planning a WIP of the Schwinn. It would be interesting to see, how this will work out. Cheers Rob
  19. DocRob
    The painting stage begins. I prepared all the parts and glued some wire into pre drilled holes on the inside of the rims and drilled holes into the axles too. That makes painting easier and helps to make the wheel assembly stronger, when time comes. All parts were primed with AK's Xtreme Metal black gloss primer, as I plan to use a coat of their Polished Aluminum for the metal parts like rims and bumpers and as a basecoat for the body, where I mask it later for the head- and taillights and maybe the middle body line will be masked, as a metal trim. I decided against Chrome, because it's too shiny for the finish, I have in mind. The body looks a little wired with the Polished Aluminum on top, but after drying and masking it will receive a coat of Tamiya red. Cheers Rob
  20. DocRob
    Definitely something else. Could you possibly add some in box pics? I would love to see, how the spokes look and how they tackled the details. Many moons ago, I nearly bought a 1/9 kit of a racing bike by protar. The Schwinn is a cool looking classic with that skinny old fashioned steel frame, I loved, how these forks worked on cobblestone. If anybody would produce a replica of my first MTB, A Trek single track, I would buy it in an instant. Cheers Rob
  21. DocRob
    The off road capability of the Niva is unmatched. It's a different concept than most other 4x4's. It's small and relatively light, so the small engine is perfectly capable. As with the Panda, the wheels are on the corners, not much hindering steep climbs. It weighs a little more than the Pandas and Jimnys, which helps in some situations, were traction is needed. The heater is the most outstanding feature of seemingly all Ladas. They work fast and relentless. Until last year, you could buy new ones in Germany. They got some extra care from the importer, starting from better corrosion protection, up to the complete expedition package. I think there are some left, but bringing them to the US might prove hard, not to think of exhaust regulations. In Germany the Niva has a relatively big fan base. It's cheap, forgiving, easy (sometimes often) to repair. Many forest workers or hunters own one. Cheers Rob
  22. DocRob
    Very nice and thoughtful detailing with your PZL. I really like the scratched fairings, which give the plane a definite early 'Tintin' comic book look of elegant between war kites. Thanks for the warnings about the fiddlyness of the kit. I will keep that in mind for mine, when time comes. Cheers Rob
  23. DocRob
    Sorry Phil, my ZM Mustang IV will be a shelf queen for a while, I have too many other projects in line. Cheers Rob
  24. DocRob
    Exactly what I thought, I have only one in my stash though, the Mustang IV. Cheers Rob
  25. DocRob
    Not exactly 'Black Friday' related, but browsed the Aviattic website today and found that there were three 1/48 Gotha G.V from AZ/Hippo left, along with Aviattic night Lozenge, Gaspatch Parabellums and Lukgraph bombs. These were sold out the last times I searched and I had buried my hope to get one. Now there are only two left and a gap has been closed for me, not being able to score a WNW Gotha G.IV. I know the build will be painful, but hey, sometimes I have to test myself. Cheers Rob
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