DocRob

Nice build and an unusual flashy scheme, well done. Cheers Rob

Wow, great work, I will store these pictures for my 1/48 G.V. This will be less detailed, but it should look about right. Your IP is a masterpiece with all the different materials actually looking like they are made out of it. Cheers Rob

Thanks a lot, to be honest, the Tamiya Corsair makes it easy to shine, it's a great kit out of the box. The Brassin additions caused a lot of extra work. Were they necessary, no, but they are better than the kit parts and my plan was, to have the resin engine under removable cowlings. That didn't work out, so now the cowlings are permanently closed. I left the Corsair in Berlin as a gift for a friend, when I left. I wanted to achieve a maximum result and involved lots of extra work into the build, because there were many things to learn for me and my limited abilities by the time. Seeing your great work, I think there are different definitions of 'serious' in modelling. The Corsair was my first kit since I was maybe twenty and now modelling has a part in my live, but I have a lot of other hobbies. De nada, I did all I could by the time and learned a lot through the built. Weathering to me is more having the right idea about the type and grade of weathering beforehand and then work out the imagined picture, considering the scene of action, climate, and most important materials of the original. Normally, I have an already made up picture in my head, when I start a build, completely detailed and I try to follow that, not always succesful , to the finish. The way you painted your Corsair is admirable, with the translucent layers of paint. It's not easy to achieve, but gives great depth to the paintjob. Bring it on Phil, it's such a great kit. It needs it's time, but it's worth it, because it's so enjoyable. Hacking at my Mikro Mir Fokker at the moment, makes me sometimes want, to drag one of my Tamiya's out of the shelf . Cheers Rob

I built the Tamiya kit when it came out, using a lot of AM, like Brassin engine and cockpit and Maketar masks for the stars and walkways. I have only bad pics, because I was not seriously a builder then (and not an LSM member) and just took some quick ones. In all it was a very enjoyable build. Cheers Rob Cheers Rob

Nice work all around, gratulations. Can't wait to see the finished scene. It's a nostalgia ride for me, because the Birdcage Boyington flew was my first serious attempt at modelling after a draught of some centuries. Cheers Rob

Gracias Hombres, but it's not much LS in between, only the British rigging points Cheers Rob

Today some little in between Lozengies arrived with loads of AM for different WWI projects along with some not shown Albion Alloys brass stuff. The Eduard set has two resin engines included. I waited a long time to receive these goodies, maybe caused by the snow chaos in Madrid, two weeks ago. I may build the tiny Fokker E.V along my ongoing build and use it as a testbed for the wing camo technique in multi colour streaking. Cheers Rob

Nice progress with the 190, Pity as always, that much of the nice cockpit work will be lost to the eye in that dark RLM66 cave under the canopy. It seems, that you let the worst obstacles of the build behind you. Wish you luck with the repair of the cowling. Cheers Rob

I haven't read that, have I ?

The gun ring looks so real, great work. I second your thoughts about annealing mostly. I use it only for non structural elements, which have complicated to bend forms. With brass and copper there are roughly spoken two grades of annealing. First level is to get rid of the inner tension and needs temperatures between 250-300 degrees C. Most people let the brass glow reddish and reach higher temperatures above 450 degrees C, which make the material soft in addition to the first effect. Cheers Rob

I've never seen a kit of this type, it's quite interesting though. Your chassis and axle are looking great. Cheers Rob

Good question, simple answer, it was a brain fart by me , it's the ZM, I have. Cheers Rob

My pleasure Carl , in surfing we call the one who is taking one for the team 'current dummy', which is the first guy out, paddling his lungs out and showing the others, where not to go . Actually, even if I had known about these sets, I would have chosen manufacturing the struts by myself, because that was one of the things, I wanted to learn through this build. But there is the idea of doing a second one in a yellow black diamond scheme in the back of my head,... Cheers Rob

Very interesting, how special interest kits get attention from people, who are willing to fix their shortcomings. This set will be handy for everyone with an interest into building one, especially the wing struts, with the already made up tripod. Great find Carl, thanks for mentioning. Cheers Rob

It's not the first time the Hiro kits got my attention. As an engineer in my former live, with interests in metals, I'm attracted and sometimes browsed through their offers, but too many different interests for me in the last time, to start with cars earnestly. But who knows, what you show here, is mouthwatering. I love the detailing of the kit, which is not possible only with plastic. Keep on your great work. Cheers Rob

Cool project, never followed a Hiro build closely, but they seem to be decent kits with great detail. Cheers Rob

Thanks Rowdy, I like to create depth through multi layer technique, like on the seat. It's quite simple, just add up layer per layer, very thin with a bit of translucency. Meanwhile I closed the fuselage and yes, all the rubber bands, clamps and tape were necessary to get the panels aligned with the help of considerable force. The fuselage will be left for drying until tomorrow. Then I switched to the wing, were I rescribed all the panel lines, because the existing ones were inconsistent. The wing was puttied, where it had some sink marks and sanded to shape. I pre drilled the holes for the struts with a 0,5mm bit and the holes for the aileron cables 0,3mm. Now I can start thinking about the way, how to achieve the four coloured streaking on the wing. Cheers Rob

Thank you Carl, blushing again . The partly suboptimal kit needs some solutions for it's weaker parts and as the Fokker itself is so appealing to me, it's well worth the struggle. Cheers Rob

Thanks Jeff, I'm blushing . Closing the fuselage will be a milestone for me, after that, I hope the build will be mas rapido. Cheers Rob

With lots of test fitting, cutting and adjusting, the fuselage halves were completed and seat and ammo boxes were added. The instrument bezels are from an Eduard set and some of the details too. The fuel pump is scratched, as well as the throttle rods. Some cables were added, made from lead wire and the steering cables were made from fishing line. The fuselage halves still fit together, after a lot of adjusting. To glue the fuselage together, will be the next task. Cheers Rob

Thanks Kai, I hope everything is still amazing, when brought together . Cheers Rob

Nice and dirty, love it. Cheers Rob

Sorry to hear about the rigging point disaster. Do you generally anneal the PE? I only do it when there are free form bendings necessary, as with rolled parts or seat belts. I can imagine, that heat treatment weakens the parts, as it softens the material by reducing inner tension. With brass, it's easy to heat to much, as there are two phases of annealing. With 250-300 C you lose the inner tension of the material, above it goes simply soft (450-600 C). If your PE is really darkened after heating, you might have been in the second level, which means too hot. With these tiny parts, where I believe, the bending lines are even weaker, because pre etched, I can imagine, that the material becomes too soft and breaks easily. Concerning the non broken, but detached parts, aren't the holes in the middle for attaching the struts through? I imagine, this would hold the rigging points in place. I hope you will find a proper solution for this problem as late in the build. Cheers Rob

@ Hubert, just for clarification, are you referring to AK's acrylic black primer or the dedicated Extreme Metal black base? After much praise, I tried Mr. Levelling and had the results you described, with the acrylic base and some AK acrylic colours as well as some Lifecolour's. I made my peace with the stuff, using it to thin Tamiya acrylics, where it works perfectly good. AK' Extreme Metal flat base is another breed and they recommend it as a base for their high polished shades like chrome and polished aluminum and that's where I used it without problems. Cheers Rob

Nothing too exotic in my stash size wise. The biggest boxes should be HK's Uhu and B-25 only outranked by an Italeri Vosper boat, all boxes fitted to the brim with precious AM. Cheers Rob