Peterpools Posted May 29, 2021 Share Posted May 29, 2021 Nice weathering on the exhausts - looks mighty good. Hard to believe Quickboost would send out such a bad casting and of course, nice to see Hannants followed up with excellent customer service Keep 'em comin Peter 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmayhew Posted May 29, 2021 Author Share Posted May 29, 2021 wings and stuff... as i said i glued bottom on first, then added the top pieces the gun cover parts are moulded as rectangular inserts but there is no panel line on the real thing... i had thought taping round where i don't want scuffed was clever and whilst the idea was laudable, you can (as i did) end up just shifting / creating another problem this is mr dissolved putty laid on with a small flat brush, thinned with some Mr Levelling Thinner; sands quite nicely as you would expect a note about the wheel wells - the CMK inserts do not fit well - they were just too small to fill the round wheel well hole which was sooo frustrating as these birds would have had canvas covers as you can just see above i ended up going without them they are painted (at present) the US equiv of Sky - i have taken a stab and used MRP RLM76 my conundrum is whether the wells should actually be Interior Green - I am beginning to think that they should be they will be a pain to paint and weather correctly again, but it shouldn't be impossible i could even go with some cheeky hair spray chipping as well 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmayhew Posted May 29, 2021 Author Share Posted May 29, 2021 the landing gear blister thingies were glued on only *after* i was satisfied with the wing root and leading edge inside of the blister i was dreading this area but luckily it did not turn out too bad here you can see the wheel wells...hmmm anyway moving on early P-40s like this one did not have bomb racks; some research and i was told that the bottom was just flush, so more filling and sanding that's all for now i am off to the pub 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martinnfb Posted May 29, 2021 Share Posted May 29, 2021 Clean and precise work, me likey 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony in NZ Posted May 29, 2021 Share Posted May 29, 2021 Awesome work there, truly one of the most detailed explanations of assembly of the Hasegawa kit. Shame about the canvas covers as I have those too....hmmm Great inspiration Cheers Anthony 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GazzaS Posted May 29, 2021 Share Posted May 29, 2021 Nice.... nice! 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harv Posted May 30, 2021 Share Posted May 30, 2021 Wow Nick, very impressed with what you have done here. The pit is amazing....harv 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaireckstadt Posted May 30, 2021 Share Posted May 30, 2021 Really nice work! And lots of it! 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmayhew Posted May 30, 2021 Author Share Posted May 30, 2021 12 hours ago, Anthony in NZ said: Awesome work there, truly one of the most detailed explanations of assembly of the Hasegawa kit. Shame about the canvas covers as I have those too....hmmm Great inspiration Cheers Anthony thank you in retrospect i should maybe have persevered? another reason i was hesitant was that the hassy kit links the wheel well construction with a wing spar which aligns the dihedral going slightly 'off piste' with my construction method meant i was quite keen still to be able to take advantage of it next time - and that will be a long time in the future! - seeing as i didn't have any problems in that area, i might have another go at using the covers i actually tried to trim them and fit them in *on top* of the normal wheel well, but just ended up cutting them to sh*t because i was going about half-arsed lol anyhoo... 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmayhew Posted May 30, 2021 Author Share Posted May 30, 2021 not sure if i mentioned this before but i found it a bit of an eye opener to cut bits of sanding sponge off and use forceps / tweezer thingies to get in and sand quite 'forensically' if i had used this approach earlier in the build i would have either got better results or at the very least achieved the same in less time / with less effort i found that i had not attached the front canopy correctly - the fit was fine on dry fit, this was entirely user error - so i had a small area requiring filler again probably not showing anyone anything new, but i found putting masking tape either side of the slit i was trying to fill, then brushing on some Mr Surfacer 500, allowing to dry, then sand the area on top of the masking tape off (rough grade fine for this), remove sanding paper and then use technique as shown above provided a fairly quick and very pleasing result 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmayhew Posted May 30, 2021 Author Share Posted May 30, 2021 propeller blades hassy have some really f*cking annoying raised lines to signal where the yellow tips should be silver sprayed on rear edge for chipping quick bit of masking then yellow goes on - none of this 'must lay done a grey blah blah' (it's MRP - you can spray anything over anything!) hairspray then goes on, then various colours all mottled on (not on the yellow) to give the blades some depth one of the things i try to do now is not just have 'slabs of colour' - so literally any old colours to hand can work, it doesn't need 'over thinking' then water and stubby brush for some chipping results were so so because i sprayed direct from can and think the hs went on a bit thick but still reasonably pleasing the chipping through the yellow is hard to pick at anything other than close up but as you can see from above is indeed there the front side - here you can see what i mean about depth and variation...the bigger the scale, the more you need this approach in my view or you just end up with that 'big toy' look same sort of approach for the spinner i don't think the panel line around the prop hole is correct but i have no interest in investigating further on this one! some sanding and polishing as my part was scratched to sh*t in the box (my bad on that) half way through the various mottles... looks a bit dodgy here but to naked eye finished article looks similar to prop blades, just slightly different all pics are iphone btw and for some reason when i drag and drop to LSM on my Mac it says they are exported in low quality etc so sorry about that 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmayhew Posted May 30, 2021 Author Share Posted May 30, 2021 final update for today i think the horizontal stabs went in and were VERY tight i found that putting both wings in about half way and then pushing them together worked - with a bit of grunt they snapped in very nicely but putting in one wing first and then trying the other and i found that no amount of force would make the second go in just a small amount of Mr Surfacer 500 for underneath where the gap was slightly larger...and then some light sanding and all good 500 not needed on top - i probably could have got away with just sanding tbh catch you all later time for some gardening! 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peterpools Posted May 30, 2021 Share Posted May 30, 2021 NIck Very nice work and terrific progress on the P-40. Loads of small and not so small build problems/issues, with the P-40 having more then it's share. Keep 'em comin Peter 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmayhew Posted June 1, 2021 Author Share Posted June 1, 2021 finishing (I think) the prop blades I have the Barracuda decals but i only ever use decals when there is no alternative luckily there is - HGW wet transfers from my P-47! no idea if the text is correct for a P-40 - probably not - but 1) at least it is for a Hamilton prop and 2) even in 1/32 you cannot read the text unless under magnification tools used shown below, plus a small bowl of water for those who haven't used these things before, fear not - it's dead simple... fyi paint surface is smooth, not because of gloss coat or 'the F word' but because I sanded the surfaces of the primer coat, and MRP goes on super smooth. dip in water just like a decal, then slide the transfer off the backing paper and put in place on top of either some Mr Mark Softer, Micro Sol or similar. use cotton bud / paper towel to press down and push out all the fluid from underneath ensuring a good 'connection'. below shows transfer in place still on the carrier film. i usually wait 6-8 hrs or overnight (hey it's like I'm using enamel paints lol) then use a toothpick to scuff an edge and remove the film depending upon the strength of setting solution, you may get a faint 'ghost' where the film was, but i found this disappears either by wiping the area with a damp paper towel / cotton bud, and if not then certainly by the time you apply final finish - MRP matt varnish in this case. the finished article is literally as if a tiny person painted the data on - there is no ridge or film - none of the dreaded silvering bs you roll the dice with decals etc etc. the finish is pretty bullet proof so you can apply oils, enamel washes etc over the top i have also seen guys sand bits away to simulate wear, but have not done this myself yet i used HGW wet transfers on my P-47 as well - there is no hiding place on a NMF for decal carrier film - and they performed flawlessly anyway, hope the tutorial helps a few people 'break their wet transfer cherry' cheers Nick 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peterpools Posted June 1, 2021 Share Posted June 1, 2021 Nick Prop work looks great - thanks for the tutorial, as it will surely come in handy. Keep 'em comin Peter 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spitfire Posted June 2, 2021 Share Posted June 2, 2021 Looking good, I have just used the HGW wet transfers on my PCM Tempest and they are easy to use and work great, vastly superior to decals, for me as I am useless with decals. Cheers Dennis 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DocRob Posted June 2, 2021 Share Posted June 2, 2021 Great tutorial, and you are lucky, that the HGW's worked so good for you. I had lots of problems with these last week, which almost ruined my actual Hellcat build. I did everything according to the manual (or like you described) and had lots of wet transfer lifts, while removing the carrier film very carefully. If the stay on, like on my prop too, they look great, but to my eye, the product does not have reliable results, specially the larger wet transfers, like the cat fangs and eyes were problematic. The stars and bars and small stencils worked better. I switched to decaling then. I tattooed my Mig-31 with myriads of stencils and had only little lift probs, but on two different occasions, the wet transfers were not usable or to put it positively, they are for the friends of heavy chipping . Cheers Rob 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmayhew Posted June 2, 2021 Author Share Posted June 2, 2021 Hey DocRob sorry to hear of your issues with the wet transfers i would not be afraid to contact HGW directly and explain what happened - maybe it was a dodgy batch etc? HGW concede that they have not yet mastered the process for multi coloured decals which are very involved eg some intricate nose art i recommend them only because they do seem to have taken the fear / unpredictability from the stencilling / small decals best Nick 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DocRob Posted June 2, 2021 Share Posted June 2, 2021 Thanks Nick, the biggest problems were indeed with the bigger and multi colored wet transfers, with the exception of the large US insignia, which went on problem free. On the MIG, I used them only as stencils and they performed well, with only tiny lifts, which would be normal on a big grey Soviet beast. With the Hellcat, I removed the wet transfers, which was not so easy, because they adhered very well, exactly 1 mm beside a lifted part and fitted the supplied Cartograph decals over, as best as I could. I will give them one more chance, possibly, when I build my F-4B Phantom, where they could make life much easier, as you can apply stencils grouped in places. Anyway, your P-40 build is exceptional and fun to follow. Keep up the great work. Cheers Rob 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wingco57 Posted June 3, 2021 Share Posted June 3, 2021 Great progress Nick. The P-40 used the Curtiss Electric prop, but don’t tell 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmayhew Posted June 4, 2021 Author Share Posted June 4, 2021 On 6/3/2021 at 6:03 AM, Wingco57 said: Great progress Nick. The P-40 used the Curtiss Electric prop, but don’t tell he he no worries yes of course you are right and I am a numpty lol it should look reasonable enough once the prop hub is on in other news I have received a better copy of one of the two known photos of this airframe and I have now been ‘converted’ to believe that the spinner is red, and not black as I had previously believed so I guess I have some respraying to do cheers Nick 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnB Posted June 5, 2021 Share Posted June 5, 2021 On 5/30/2021 at 4:38 AM, nmayhew said: not sure if i mentioned this before but i found it a bit of an eye opener to cut bits of sanding sponge off and use forceps / tweezer thingies to get in and sand quite 'forensically' if i had used this approach earlier in the build i would have either got better results or at the very least achieved the same in less time / with less effort i found that i had not attached the front canopy correctly - the fit was fine on dry fit, this was entirely user error - so i had a small area requiring filler again probably not showing anyone anything new, but i found putting masking tape either side of the slit i was trying to fill, then brushing on some Mr Surfacer 500, allowing to dry, then sand the area on top of the masking tape off (rough grade fine for this), remove sanding paper and then use technique as shown above provided a fairly quick and very pleasing result One method I have found that works well is water soluble Vallejo Plastic Putty. Just squeeze a bit along the seam you want to fill then wipe off the excess with a wet Q-tip. Comes in very handy and negates the need for sanding, etc. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peterpools Posted June 5, 2021 Share Posted June 5, 2021 I've use Vallejo Plastic Putty same as John for such filling and it works great Keep 'em comin Peter 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmayhew Posted June 12, 2021 Author Share Posted June 12, 2021 Not too much progress recently I’ll go with the Quickboost landing gear doors primarily because they don’t have the shitty ejector pin marks (the kit parts are actually very sharp). The small door will fit very nicely, but the larger door will be fiddly to attach - neither upgrade nor kit part has a large mating surface and I don’t think the engineering is very good here. these doors will be us sky grey eventually - as will the main parts of the oleos - but I thought I would do some hs chipping first the tail wheel doors will stay interior green 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peterpools Posted June 12, 2021 Share Posted June 12, 2021 Good call with deciding to use Quickboost Landing Gear Doors .. they look so much better and no injector pin marks. Weathering looks the part on the Tailwheel doors as well. Keep 'em comin Peter 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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