Clear the Bench! Zoukei Moura Bf-109G14 Non-Hartmann Build

[Clunkmeister]

Gary, yesterday  I did find a cool picture of a 109 and how it looks today. 

[GazzaS]

Thank you guys for the support, comments, and questionable humour.

 Later yesterday I sprayed all of the seams and repaired flaws to help eliminate more errors.  Hopefully my HGW positive rivets arrive soon.

[GazzaS]

Muh Friends (use Nightshift voice)

  It's time to consider the canopy.  To check it for fit and to begin clean up.  There are a lot of sprue gates and ejector pin tabs.  But that just makes for higher quality parts.

I was so afraid of chipping or cracking, that I snipped them from the sprue as far away as was practical, and then sanded them down with my electric-toothbrush sander.  (the best tool tip I ever got)

Fit on the left:

Not bad.

 

Fit on the right:

Better...

 

Fit in the middle: 

Meh.  What's you favorite filler around the canopy?

 

This is the first time that any 109 model I have built has a back wall to the canopy glass as well as the cockpit lights.

You may notice that I accidentally broke and then repaired this part.

 

And...   and...   the armored windscreen is a separate part.

 

This is the fit of the early hood.  The antenna mast will be attached to your fuselage if you use this one.

The parts are thin with some flex.  Good thing I added them seat belts...  the view is nice.

 

A second shot for your viewing pleasure...

 

OK...   one more....

 

I...   and all of you Hartmann builders will be using this later canopy.  The antenna mast will be attached to it.  ...   oh...  and you have to drill a hole for the mast.

There are generous tabs representing the canopy hinges.

 

The armored head protection fits firmly into significant recesses.

I can't tell you how many 109's and 190's I've built where getting the head armor into the correct position was a chore.  Yes, I did wash my hands after work today.

There is some distortion in the armored glass.   But I ain;t gonna worry about it.

 

 

The Revi reflector sight.  I think those two pieces with the arrows by them are for the canopy lights...   I can't seem to find them in the directions.

More research is required.

 

Finally...   a super-sized gun sight.  Get our your Novus kit to polish those teenie-weenie little panes.

 

That is all for now.  There are canopy masks in the kit. 

 

 

 

 

[Bill_S]

Looking great, Gazzas! I use a heated exacto blade to remove those brittle clear parts from the sprue.

[GazzaS]

Just now, Bill_S said:

Looking great, Gazzas! I use a heated exacto blade to remove those brittle clear parts from the sprue.

Thanks for that tip, Bill.  I've never heard that one before.

[JohnB]

7 hours ago, GazzaS said:

Thanks for that tip, Bill.  I've never heard that one before.

I'll have to give that a try. Removing those pesky brittle clear parts has always been a problem. Your '109 is coming along very well Gaz!

[DocRob]

The gap in front of the windscreen, how wide is that? I guess far less than half a millimeter. Maybe sanding the hull parts a tiny little bit would you spare the filler, if the main canopy part fits afterwards.

Cheers Rob

[Martinnfb]

those two unidentified objects are probably canopy glass handles used only on the old style canopy . On the picture  below it’s visible underneath the pilot’s nose.

[CANicoll]

Gary,

 I use a very fine-tooth razor saw to remove the clear parts from the sprue - 72 teeth or better.  I get a flush cut and no stress cracks.  Cockpit is looking GOOD and I am very envious of those seatbelts.  I never can get the stitching or lettering to come out so clearly.

Chris

[GazzaS]

4 hours ago, CANicoll said:

Gary,

 I use a very fine-tooth razor saw to remove the clear parts from the sprue - 72 teeth or better.  I get a flush cut and no stress cracks.  Cockpit is looking GOOD and I am very envious of those seatbelts.  I never can get the stitching or lettering to come out so clearly.

Chris

HGW, my friend.  And a light brown wash.

[Peterpools]

Gaz

Some mighty fine work and canopies are always a delicate issue. I sue a very fine CMK razor saw blade like Chris but as you, cut far away up the fret gate and then so so carefully sand off the nibs with a 400 Infinity Sanding stick. I also keep reminding myself to handle the canopy gently, no pressure so not to crack it while sanding.

As for the filler in front of the canopy, I use Tamiya Whiter Putty and smooth it out and then let it dry thoroughly. Any follow up filler that is needed, I switch over to Mr Surfacer 1200 and take my time. Everyone looks into the cockpit and at the canopy first time they enjoy the completed model.

 

[KevinM]

18 hours ago, GazzaS said:

Meh.  What's you favorite filler around the canopy?

 

I hit the front of that windscreen with a 240 grit stick a bit and check the fit.Rob has the right idea.

[Clunkmeister]

Oh man!  Martin is the research KING!

[GazzaS]

15 hours ago, JohnB said:

I'll have to give that a try. Removing those pesky brittle clear parts has always been a problem. Your '109 is coming along very well Gaz!

Thank you, John!

14 hours ago, DocRob said:

The gap in front of the windscreen, how wide is that? I guess far less than half a millimeter. Maybe sanding the hull parts a tiny little bit would you spare the filler, if the main canopy part fits afterwards.

Cheers Rob

The IP is right under the join, Rob.  Sanding the hull part will be more difficult than wresting a t-bone from a Rottweiler.

13 hours ago, Martinnfb said:

those two unidentified objects are probably canopy glass handles used only on the old style canopy . On the picture  below it’s visible underneath the pilot’s nose.

Ебена мать, Martin!  Can I say that?  Anyway...   you know what I mean...   You continue to amaze.  Thank you!

4 hours ago, KevinM said:

I hit the front of that windscreen with a 240 grit stick a bit and check the fit.Rob has the right idea.

I really hate sanding clear parts.  Really!

[JohnB]

9 hours ago, GazzaS said:

Thank you, John!

The IP is right under the join, Rob.  Sanding the hull part will be more difficult than wresting a t-bone from a Rottweiler.

Ебена мать, Martin!  Can I say that?  Anyway...   you know what I mean...   You continue to amaze.  Thank you!

I really hate sanding clear parts.  Really!

When ever I have to sand a clear part such as a canopy or windscreen I use a very fine sanding stick or sandpaper. Then I polish it out with Happich Simichrome Polish polishing paste using a strip from a old t-shirt which works well. I've had the same tube for something like 25 years. It's just about used up now though so I'll have to get a re-supply pretty soon.

[GazzaS]

It seems like a while since my last update. 

Anyway...   masked and painted the canopy parts.  The vinyl masks shrank a little, so I had to tape a few edges with masking tape.  Then I installed everything except the Galland hood.

I also detail painted the Revi 16/B gunsight and glue it in place...  then weathered it as well as the radio hatch area.

The tiny little black tab atop the sight is a tiny piece of PE fret bent at a right angle.  Can barely see it in a regular sized photo.  The Revi 16/B doesn't have a face crash pad.

 

The top view of the canopy.  The seam at the front is ugly.  But it's the best I can manage.  What I need is a self-levelling filler.  Anybody know of one that moves slowly enough to dry before exiting the lower ends?

 

I weathered the radio hatch area and gunsight with Tamiya enamels with a little aluminum chipping done with Citadel acrylics.

'

Scratch Builders...   You'll need to make some parts.

There are no upper braces for the head armor and no canopy opening lever.  I actually had to drag out my Revell G-10 Erla to get an idea of the size of the lever.

 

Thanks for looking!

 

Comments appreciated.

[nmayhew]

strange omissions

re filler, the only non-shrinking non-cracking ones i know of are home made sprue goo or 2 part epoxies, but the latter may set hard as nails and be difficult to scribe, even if they may sand well; all the glazing type / lacquer based ones will shrink a little I believe

your mileage may vary etc etc

 

[JohnB]

Looks to be coming along fine Gaz!

[Peterpools]

Gaz

Nice progress in adding the missing small details. I wonder why Revell included them and ZM chose not to. The front office weathering looks so good and very convincing.

 

[GazzaS]

Thank you everyone for your likes and kind support.

Now I need your help in another way.  I need your artistic sense.  And your sense of human movement. 

I have a small number of figures available.  Here is the first example I am trying.  The pilot has clambered out of his canopy and is pleasantly surprised by an old friend waiting by the fuselage.

 

 

[Kais]

Das ist wirklich der Hammer!
Nice composition GazzaS.
Perhaps turn the Hartmann figure slightly to his right, and if possible find him a smiling head.
Where is the  "clambering figure from"?
Where can we(I) buy the ZM G-14 in OZ?

[Peterpools]

Gaz

I like the idea of the dio/vignette but the standing figure knowing the pilot is climbing out of his airplane, should be facing the cockpit and looking up at the exiting pilot. He might also have a little more friendly look. Just my two cents worth.

[Martinnfb]

This looks like a propaganda picture setup. I would place a photographer by them. 
or/ and
if is the pilot leaving , why is he wearing parachute, that usually stays on the seat also, why is he standing on the wing. That’s the dedicated place for a mechanic who would be already assisting to tired pilot with the exit. The easiest way, without stepping on  the cooling flap is to leap over the edge of the canopy with the help of the foot step and hand hold. 
a dog would be great addition as well. 

[Martinnfb]

lots of good info here

 

[Martinnfb]

We need some motivation here