Special Hobby Tempest Mk.V

[Jeff]

Yes, the comparison is great, as I was wondering why a correction set was in order................. I get it now...... sweet build Rick, I have been lurking along watching this......

[rkranias]

Attaching the wing was difficult as the fit not the best.  I used claps and tape to keep wing root gap at minimum and proper wing dihedral.

Clamps and tape do the job.

 

[rkranias]

I wanted to give surface area for epoxy to secure the nose.

I built up the firewall with thick plasticard.

The inside if the replacement nose was shaved to accept the depth of the new firewall.

Epoxy mixed using a small applicator.

Applying the epoxy with small applicator I realize I need a method to add epoxy volume.

Go big or go home with a 14ga 1.5" (3.8cm) industrial syringe.

I'm able to lay a nice thinck bead of epoxy along the firewall and nose joint.

After the epoxy cured I applied some primer on all the joints then smoothed out and re-scribed all the offense areas.

[rkranias]

Staring at the kit supplied gunsights I knew they needed replaced.  Since this is a very lat war Tempest I wanted the Ace Maker Gyro gunsight.



I had Roy's BR32011 Spitfire Upgrade Part II which has the Ace Maker gunsight.  The Barr & Stroud Mk.II is marked for one of my big Spitfires. So procuring the Ace Maker gunsight will be perfect.

Comparison between the kit supplied Ace Maker and Roy's is significant

.

When removing the mount from the casting block I urge extreme care and patience.  Micro saw is a must.  RB micro saw is perfect.  The gunsight mount is quite fragile.

Paint with MRP 77 NATO Black, supplied decals and add some wiring.  The reflector shade is from the SH kit.

Need me some glass for the reflector shade.  I cut a 4mm x 3.5mm piece of clear styrene and score at the 1.5mm measure.  Score only, do not cut.

Carefully fold at the score line and...

and place in the reflector shade.  I attached with thin CA.

Shave with lens attached.  Color me happy.

Mount on top of IP.

Windscreen mounted.  Time for some masking.

 

[BlrwestSiR]

Great work on the gunsight as well as fitting the nose cowl. 

Carl

[harv]

Awesome work Rick !!........harv

[Jeff]

Yowza !

[JonathanReed]

Awesome!!  So glad to be back and seeing your work Rick!  Been missing all of this..

[rkranias]

On 8/10/2019 at 8:28 PM, BlrwestSiR said:

Great work on the gunsight as well as fitting the nose cowl. 

Carl

Thanks Carl!

On 8/10/2019 at 8:50 PM, harv said:

Awesome work Rick !!........harv

Hey Harv!

22 hours ago, Jeff said:

Yowza !

Thanks Jeff.

22 hours ago, JonathanReed said:

Awesome!!  So glad to be back and seeing your work Rick!  Been missing all of this..

Thanks Jonathan.

[rkranias]

One of my favorites...masking.

Cockpit, radiator opening and wheel wells get the tape, liquid mask and sponge treatment. 

Will prime with Gunze 1500 Black.

[rkranias]

All national markings, ID bands will be painted.  Using Maketar masks the 4 color roundel application begin.

A base of MRP135 Insignia White is applied for roundels, fin flash and ID bands.  I'm applying markings using this method as I want to keep paint build up to minimum.

MRP122 RAF Marking Yellow is applied.  This late war aircraft, flown by New Zealand ace Evan Mackie, will have C1 roundels in all 6 positions.

After yellow cures masks are carefully positioned.

MRP183 Oxford Blue is applied.  I spend much time deliberating on the correct "blue" for late war RAF a/c.  I took the FICE approach and I'm pleased with my decision.

The blue has cured and more masks carefully placed.  I applied liquid mask on all tape seams to insure no bleeding.

MRP123 RAF Marking Red completes the national insignias.  Masks removed.  No bleeds, no lifting.  Win, win.

The DSPIAE cutter is nothing short of pure precision.  The learning curve on this instrument is very short.  Once I learned the razor adjustment I've have zero issues.

I am cutting roundel blanks out of mylar to protect the national markings during the camouflage painting.  Careful measure and a test cut, it's good.  The locator is a must as this component will allow you to make cuts with very little waste of masking material.

Precision cuts with very little waste the the locator tool.

Blank masks cover the roundels and fin flash.  Then black primer lightly covers the white over spray.  MRP118 RAF Sky used fuselage ID band.  MRP122 RAF Marking Yellow applied to leading edge of wings.  While I'm at it I gave the prop tips some yellow love.

After ID bands are masked the wing walk is painted using MRP255 Night Camouflage.

To determine the proper curve at wing root I placed aluminum foil at the wing walk area and gently burnished.  The precise line at wing root is revealed.

After careful measuring and using a French Curve I cut the masks out of mylar.

Mylar masks for wing walk applied.

[Jeff]

Engineering genius................. I NEVER would have thought of the tin foil trick................ brilliant!

[Martinnfb]

Not just a pretty face  . looking good Rick 

[GazzaS]

[rkranias]

Ocean Grey going down.  I use black base marbling technique.  It works for me.   Considered using putty worms for Ocean Grey/Dark Green demarcation.  I'm going in freehand.

MRP115 Ocean Grey.  

2 sessions needed as fatigue on trigger finger set in.

 

Blending

 

•  

[rkranias]

MRP110 Dark Green.  Hard to show up on the black base.

It really is marbled!  Look close.

[DocRob]

You went through a lot with that kit but your persistence pays. Your Tempest is looking great and there are so many things to mention. Love the gunsight, the wiring, the marbling technique and how everything of that not too easy build comes together as a new masterpiece.

Cheers Rob

[rkranias]

Mask off.  Happy to report no lifting or bleeding. 

[HubertB]

Outstanding work ! I particularly like the gunsight detailing.

Hubert

[rkranias]

This build will represent the mount of RNZAF ace (20+ kills) Wing Commander Evan Mackie late May 1945.  I chose this scheme for several reasons.  I have a few Kiwi modeling friends.  The scheme is absent of DDay stripes, small fuselage codes and absence of any ordnance will show the beautiful lines of the Tempest.

Masking serial number and fuselage codes.  Using Maketar masks and MRP NATO black the serial numbers are added.

it's always special when I spot a seam well into final finishing stages.

Fuselage codes Mackie's initials are MRP Sky.

On Deck - Gloss, stencil decals more gloss and weathering.

 

[Ryan]

Nice paintwork sir.

[Jeff]

3 hours ago, Ryan said:

Nice paintwork sir.

Boy, no kidding there....................close to perfect I'd say......................

[rkranias]

On 8/14/2019 at 8:05 AM, Ryan said:

Nice paintwork sir.

 

On 8/14/2019 at 11:36 AM, Jeff said:

Boy, no kidding there....................close to perfect I'd say......................

Thanks Ryan and Jeff.

[rkranias]

National markings, sn and codes painted.  Time to apply gloss.

I've tried many gloss varnishes and I'm frequently trying others.  Thing is I always keep coming back to Tamiya x22 gloss.  I mix 1:1 ratio with Gunze Mr. Leveling Thinner (MLT).  The results are always consistent.

I also get to use my new Creos Procon Boy PS290 .5mm airbrush with fan tip.  This is my new full coverage primer and varnish weapon.  Love the nice wide spray pattern and great coverage.  Was not sure about using a trigger airbrush.   For full coverage this is the bees knees.

Gloss applied for stencil decal work.  Look forward to cut and place about 50 of these little fellas. 

While the gloss cures I'll work on other parts and bits.

[rkranias]

While the gloss cures I'll work on the Prop.

Roy 's Prop Assembly Jig is brilliant on many levels.  The measure for 4' yellow tip is accurate.  To assist in masking the tip I extended the tip color break just beyond the blade outline.

I primed each blade with Gunze 1500 Black then applied a shot of light grey (to decrease yellow paint build up) on the tip area followed by yellow.

After paint cure I placed each prop on the jig and carefully placed tape at the 4" mark.

Each blade gets a coat of MRP77 NATO Black.

Mask removed...all good.

Interior of back plate gets a shot of Alclad116 Semi-Matt aluminum.  For me I wanted just a peek of unpainted metal at root of prop blade.  Is it accurate?  Not sure.  I'll get a nice color break from the prop hub and blade. 

Using 15 minute epoxy i set the blade in position and carefully adjust according to the jig.  I let complete cure before I move on to next blade.

The prop spinner got painted with MRP255 Black Night Camouflage.  This gives a nice contrast between the prop spinner and blades.

After near complete epoxy cure I slip on the prop spinner to double check alignment.

All four blades mounted and cured the prop hub is carefully glued in place.  The prop spinner easily fits on the back plate after all blades glued.

Test fit of complete prop assembly.  You can see the contrast black between spinner and blades.

Pardon the dust.

Look at prop root and you can see the aluminum color inside of back plate.