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Playing in the Sandbox Group Build Sept 1, 2024 - Jn 1, 2025

Dragon Bf 110 C-7


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So it's a new year, therefore a new build. Another twin to clutter up the bench with :D

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First step was to go through the errors & omissions list that Brett Green published on Hyperscale regarding the kit's instructions. Then I started on the engines.  These went together really well.

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Next up is the MLG and gear bays. 

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The ribs that go into the nacelles were a bit of a head scratcher until I checked the instructions from the Dragon D/E kit. In the C-7 kit, they only show the placement of the ribs for one nacelle. The D/E kit shows both so here it is for your reference.

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Onto to the cockpit and more instruction errors. They want you to glue the radio operator's seat support to the belly gun rack(E19 and E22). 

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When you look at the parts, it's obvious they're not meant to go together. E19 goes under the floor and E22 mounts above it. 

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With that sorted, I did the radio rack and installed it.

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Then the guns and spare ammo magazines. 

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This kit has been really going together well. You just have to wonder about the instructions and the complete lack of colour call outs for detail painting. 

Carl

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18 hours ago, Grunhertz said:

Revell are about to release this kit I wonder if the instruction will be better I know the colour call outs won't be however 

I know a lot of people are hoping that Revell fix the instructions as even the later Dragon releases still have errors. 

14 hours ago, Bomber_County said:

Carl, you have insatiable appetite for twins and more projects......:unworthy:

if their 110 is similar to the 51, I might just be tempted.....

The fit so far is definitely better than their P-51 which I built a few years ago. So depending on what price it comes out at in the Revell box, I'd say it's worth getting. 

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On 1/5/2019 at 11:37 PM, Bill_S said:

Lovely work, Carl. It's a far cry from the old Revell kit!

Thanks Bill! I never built the old Revell kit. I did do the Monogram 1/48 G-4 kit when it first came out. 

On 1/6/2019 at 9:30 PM, Peterpools said:

Carl

Another Twin - awesome choice and will be following with great interest. Nice start on the front office and the IP ; looks great

Keep 'em comin

Peter

Thanks Peter! I haven't started the IP yet, that's the radio rack. I'm dreading the IP but no choice, just going to have to bite the bullet and git'er done! 

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I started work on the seat belts. 

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These are belts made by Wako. One of the things I like about them is that they designed the fret holding the buckles in such a way that you can easily thread the belts onto them without removing the buckle from the fret.

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You can see this in the way the spacing is around the buckles. 

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With the first pair put together. 

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Carl, there are VERY serious errors on these extremely vague instructions.

Brett Green on HS published an errata list for the instructions on this kit. In my opinion, it is ABSOLUTELY necessary for a pain free completion of this kit.  Do a search online and if you can’t find it, I should have it somewhere.

the nacelle parts are handed, and are almost indistinguishable from each other. And the instruction call outs are wrong in spots. 

Seriously, Do not proceed further without that sheet.  It’s about a page and a half, and walks you through the sequences, start to finish.

Ok, I looked quickly and found it. Read this. It’ll save your sanity.

http://www.hyperscale.com/2008/features/bf110c732erratabg_1.htm

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Thanks Ernie, I've got the errata sheet bookmarked and as well, have made the necessary notes  on my instructions.  It's definitely required reading for the build. Here's the link in case anyone needs it. Just scroll down past the review.

http://www.hyperscale.com/2008/reviews/kits/dragon3203reviewbg_1.htm

What's interesting is there's several mistakes that he doesn't mention. One of them is the one I mentioned above about the radio seat mount and the belly gun mount. There's another about attaching cowl intake walls to the oil coolers. I'll have to look those part numbers up in the morning. 

Carl

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Carl, I just can’t get past the 02 interior. I know it’s correct, but it mst have been distracting for the crew, all bright and shiny, and if you got shot, red blood spatters all over that shiny light grey. Seriously, I can see why they went to 66. a smart move, actually.

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I hear you on that one Ernie. I kept checking to make sure I'd painted it the right colour. But like you said, I got it correct. 

I went out to the movies so didn't do too much. I did get a start on the IP though. The original Eduard PE set had separate instruments for the IP instead of their current single panel approach. With the nice raised detail on the stock panel, I thought this was a great approach. I carefully ground out the instrument faces and then started gluing in the PE instruments.

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This has a much more 3D effect I think. There's some touch-ups to do and it'll almost be done. 

 

 

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Great progress with the cockpit and IP. Never heard about those seat belts, but they do look good. I like the early war RLM 02 interior colour, because it has more contrast and enhances details better than the dull late war RLM 66 caves.

Cheers Rob

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Carl 

Terrific progress on ths seatbelts ( best way of doing them without the carpet monster getting his fair share) the now your start on the IP.

i’ve been following your discussion with Ernie regarding the kit instructions and what a disgrace! How many people have bought the kit, been frustrated to the point of boxing it up and shevling it? I’m sure a good number. I'm firmly convinced most modelers just build for relaxation & fun, follow the instructions ( maybe) and don’t belong to forums or do google searches. 

Just a shame a good kit can have so many instructional issues.

Keep ‘em comin

Peter

 

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16 hours ago, Drifter said:

That looks awesome. 

Thanks Gerhard! Definitely one of my better efforts at painting an IP.

15 hours ago, DocRob said:

Great progress with the cockpit and IP. Never heard about those seat belts, but they do look good. I like the early war RLM 02 interior colour, because it has more contrast and enhances details better than the dull late war RLM 66 caves.

Cheers Rob

Rob, Wako are from Japan. They're cheaper than the comparable products from HGW or Eduard as they come 2 to a set. The best part is theyre designed so you can thread the belts through the buckles while they're still attached to the fret. This makes for much less feeding of the carpet monster. They do require a bit more care as the buckles are laser cut plastic so can fragile. 

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12 hours ago, Peterpools said:

Carl 

Terrific progress on ths seatbelts ( best way of doing them without the carpet monster getting his fair share) the now your start on the IP.

i’ve been following your discussion with Ernie regarding the kit instructions and what a disgrace! How many people have bought the kit, been frustrated to the point of boxing it up and shevling it? I’m sure a good number. I'm firmly convinced most modelers just build for relaxation & fun, follow the instructions ( maybe) and don’t belong to forums or do google searches. 

Just a shame a good kit can have so many instructional issues.

Keep ‘em comin

Peter

 

Thanks Peter! 

The bigger shame /disappointment is that the follow on releases still have the same errors. Dragon never bothered to fix them. They could've even just done an insert sheet showing the corrections. Tamiya has done that in the past so it can't be that hard. 

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