PCM Focke Wulf FW 190 A-1/A-2/A-3

[Kaireckstadt]

49 minutes ago, GazzaS said:

Well....  the idea is subtlety.  I can either use some Archer raised line decals...  or just plain decal paper.  I've even toyed with the idea of using some WNW rib tape decals, but I think they may be too wide.  They've be covered with paint, but be big enough to show with weathering.  I did it with paint once, but wasn't satisfied with the result.

Good ideas, Gaz! And what about small Tamiya-Tape stripes? Or is it too thick? 
Cheers Kai

[GazzaS]

16 minutes ago, Kaireckstadt said:

Good ideas, Gaz! And what about small Tamiya-Tape stripes? Or is it too thick? 
Cheers Kai

 Yes, too thick.  And too textured.  I don't like depending on tape for permanent things.

[GazzaS]

Well....  after many hours of surface work, I'm ready to proceed.

Finally covered with a layer of MRP fine gray primer which I then wet sanded with 6,000 grit.

To align everything up top, things down below were lined up less perfectly and you can see how some of the lines aren't perfectly straight.  But the joints are smooth....  well...relatively.  With a kit like this, you hafta take your wins when they come.

This is some of my best rescribing work to date.  But it still ain't factory beautiful.

The main seam along the wingroot has been left filled for now.  I just cannot get my fingers into place to scribe neatly no matter what kind of straight-edge I employ.

I've done OK with the horizontal stabilizers and elevators.  I'm still debating how to place a tail-light.

I masked the canopy parts this morning and added a back-plate to the rear of the windscreens.  I also reduced the locating parts on the wonderfully modifiable Synthetic Ordinance Works landing gear legs.

So, this will be an entire new thing for me.  I am going to try to attach the landing gear covers through the same bolt holes as used on the real machine.  Except I'll be using copper wire instead of bolts.  The ABS plastic of the LG cuts and drills beautifully.  I've used black CA to join all of the parts as well as masking the stainless steel oleos.

Happy Modelling!

 

Gaz

 

 

[harv]

Sure is gonna be a winner!!!.....harv 

[GazzaS]

1 minute ago, harv said:

Sure is gonna be a winner!!!.....harv 

 Thank you, my friend!

[DocRob]

Great work with the surfaces and scribing, this will ensure a smooth paintjob for sure. The approach with the landing gear covers is interesting and will be convincing.

Cheers Rob

[Kaireckstadt]

6 hours ago, GazzaS said:

Well....  after many hours of surface work, I'm ready to proceed.

Finally covered with a layer of MRP fine gray primer which I then wet sanded with 6,000 grit.

To align everything up top, things down below were lined up less perfectly and you can see how some of the lines aren't perfectly straight.  But the joints are smooth....  well...relatively.  With a kit like this, you hafta take your wins when they come.

This is some of my best rescribing work to date.  But it still ain't factory beautiful.

The main seam along the wingroot has been left filled for now.  I just cannot get my fingers into place to scribe neatly no matter what kind of straight-edge I employ.

I've done OK with the horizontal stabilizers and elevators.  I'm still debating how to place a tail-light.

I masked the canopy parts this morning and added a back-plate to the rear of the windscreens.  I also reduced the locating parts on the wonderfully modifiable Synthetic Ordinance Works landing gear legs.

So, this will be an entire new thing for me.  I am going to try to attach the landing gear covers through the same bolt holes as used on the real machine.  Except I'll be using copper wire instead of bolts.  The ABS plastic of the LG cuts and drills beautifully.  I've used black CA to join all of the parts as well as masking the stainless steel oleos.

Happy Modelling!

 

Gaz

 

 

That looks great Gaz! Interesting Idea with the Main-Gear Door fixing. 
Keep on with the brilliant work.

One Question: Seems, that the small inner L/G-Doors were closed after it was extended? Didn’t know about that til now! 

[GazzaS]

18 minutes ago, DocRob said:

Great work with the surfaces and scribing, this will ensure a smooth paintjob for sure. The approach with the landing gear covers is interesting and will be convincing.

Cheers Rob

Thank you, Rob!  I hope the LG come out as I hope.

[GazzaS]

17 minutes ago, Kaireckstadt said:

That looks great Gaz! Interesting Idea with the Main-Gear Door fixing. 
Keep on with the brilliant work.

One Question: Seems, that the small inner L/G-Doors were closed after it was extended? Didn’t know about that til now! 

Thank you, Kstadt.  This photo is my inspiration at the moment:

 

Unfortunately, those small doors are a bone of contention right now.  On the A-1, they should be open when the gear are down.  On the rest of the versions, they should be closed as you see on the build.  So, I'm left with the option of doing an A-2 or an A-3.... or cutting the closed doors off.  None of which I really want to do.  I may just leave them the way they are, build it as an A-1...  and play dumb if anyone calls me out.

[Kaireckstadt]

1 hour ago, GazzaS said:

Thank you, Kstadt.  This photo is my inspiration at the moment:

 

Unfortunately, those small doors are a bone of contention right now.  On the A-1, they should be open when the gear are down.  On the rest of the versions, they should be closed as you see on the build.  So, I'm left with the option of doing an A-2 or an A-3.... or cutting the closed doors off.  None of which I really want to do.  I may just leave them the way they are, build it as an A-1...  and play dumb if anyone calls me out.

I wouldn’t do either Gaz! It‘s only specialists like you who know that. 

And since I think you do not plan to present it upside down nobody will even recognize...

[Jeff]

And, IF they do call you out on the doors, tell them to pound sand, it is YOUR model.....

[Peterpools]

Gaz

Nice work on he 190 - workmanship is spot on and she looks  'SMOOTH' as silk and ready for camo.

Keep 'em comin

Peter

[Martinnfb]

Fine work Gaz.

[GazzaS]

Thank you, fellas!

[GazzaS]

With Tender care, using the back edge of a knife, and my one very fine razor saw blade I was able to detach the kit gear covers without stuffing them up.  Yesterday I devoted some time to trying to find period photos.  I found a couple as well as some pics from a restored bird. 

Both sets were different which causes me to believe that either different versions were made of these covers, or that the ones on the restored bird are wrong.

Anyway...  you can see my results.  I milled them using my Dremel and the round holes, a pin vise and drill bit.  They are glossy because I gave them a coat of Tamiya extra thin to smooth out the places I can't.  The black stuff is black CA where I accidentally went through with the Dremel.

[Kaireckstadt]

8 hours ago, GazzaS said:

With Tender care, using the back edge of a knife, and my one very fine razor saw blade I was able to detach the kit gear covers without stuffing them up.  Yesterday I devoted some time to trying to find period photos.  I found a couple as well as some pics from a restored bird. 

Both sets were different which causes me to believe that either different versions were made of these covers, or that the ones on the restored bird are wrong.

Anyway...  you can see my results.  I milled them using my Dremel and the round holes, a pin vise and drill bit.  They are glossy because I gave them a coat of Tamiya extra thin to smooth out the places I can't.  The black stuff is black CA where I accidentally went through with the Dremel.

That’s what I call surgery! Very well done Gaz! 

[GazzaS]

Thank you, Kai!

 

[DocRob]

Nice Gaz, with these tiny parts, it's easy to mill the holding hands as well. the landing gear will look great with all the extra effort.

Cheers Rob

[GazzaS]

20 minutes ago, DocRob said:

Nice Gaz, with these tiny parts, it's easy to mill the holding hands as well. the landing gear will look great with all the extra effort.

Cheers Rob

Thank you, Rob!   Yeah...  I don;t use the Dremel often.  It's easy for a part to get spun away by the bit, even at 5K rpm.

[DocRob]

50 minutes ago, GazzaS said:

Thank you, Rob!   Yeah...  I don;t use the Dremel often.  It's easy for a part to get spun away by the bit, even at 5K rpm.

My first canopy polishing job with my Proxxon ended with said canopy hitting a wall in a distance of five meters and was scratched beyond usability .

Cheers Rob

[Peterpools]

Gaz

Nice detail work .. always hard to work on small delicate parts

Keep 'em comin

Peter

[GazzaS]

Thank you, Peter!

[BlrwestSiR]

Looks good Gaz. Nice surgery work on the doors. 

Carl

[GazzaS]

36 minutes ago, BlrwestSiR said:

Looks good Gaz. Nice surgery work on the doors. 

Carl

Thank you, Carl!

[Peterpools]

Gaz

Your bench disaster brought back memories of my most famous bench disaster a few years back. When building my Tamiya Mossie, I was using their lacquer thinner and had a paper tower pretty well saturated with it, sprawled out on the bench. Without thinking about it, It laid down the Mossie upside down on the bench and to my horror, my heart sank to the floor. the starboard was soaked and I thought destroyed. Wolf came to the rescue with a plan, which I followed to the tee. I let the wing dry for what I remember was amybe nearly two weeks to completely dry and then spend time applying many thing layers of filler, sanding each until the wing looked good. A coat of primer showed the day was saved. Lesson learned - no matter how bad the disaster, there is always a way out and never shy away for asking for help from the guys. Unfortunately, I still do the dumb thing over and over.  

Keep ' comin

Peter