DocRob

Nice metal works Gary, I wish you luck with the skirts itself. Cheers Rob

Fantastic looking Gladiator variant with really nice winter weathering. A silver doped Gladiator is probably my next build. Cheers Rob

Measure the plank area on the spars on the plans Ernie, this way you know, if there are 20 planks on the widest spar, you can easily get the ratio for any given spar. Then you know, where to taper. I applied two or three full planks as well, before starting to taper. When sanding the second layer of planking, be careful not to sand to much, I have a paper thin part, where the bulwark meets the planks, close shave. I collected the sanding dust from the second planking and mixed my own filler with thinned white glue, to have the right color. Cheers Rob

Very nice with the digital camo Ernie. I wonder, how the Mig will look weathered, the camo suggests cleanness somehow. Interesting to see the interrupted yellow lining on the Ukrainian coat of arms on the tail. Like with many Russian planes, they seem to use reusable masks for spraying them on. Cheers Rob

It is this set, great to work with colors. Cheers Rob

Nice little rivet bucket, I really like the tanks on that chassis. It came out great and I use Nato Black often for rubber parts, when I'm to lazy to search for the right tone in my Lifecolor 'black set', where there are six different shades of near black. Perfect for aircraft wheels with different appearance on the sidewalls and the profile. Cheers Rob

Your first planking looks like a perfect base layer Ernie. To help with the second planking's width of the planks (tapering), I measured the to plank length over each spar and had an approximate for the necessary tapering. For training purposes, I tried that with the first planking. I first thought, beveling and tapering will be very time consuming, but it wasn't that bad and I didn't made a science out of it, only trying to have a nice and symmetrical planked hull. There is not so much planked area to be seen, with the copper sheating, where the much harder to plank lower part of the hull is covered. Cheers Rob

Thank you Gentlemen, and yes Kevin, I like the wooden oars a lot better, like the rug in the Dudes room, which tied everything together in 'The Big Lebowsky' movie . Cheers Rob

Thanks Ernie, you should give your HMS Speedy some love. Wooden ship building is so rewarding and at least until now was a trouble free experience and generated a lot of fun, while learning a lot. I will continue with plastic models as well, but wooden ships are a nice distraction and working with wood is a pleasure in itself. One of these days, I will try a copper sheated hull as well. I found Chris' models so well designed, that building them is relatively easy, but sure you have to do the planking and rigging somehow. Since two weeks, I'm a member on MSW as well and posted my WIP there, as there is a lot of expertise for my rigging adventures. It's a great forum with lots of members to learn a lot off. Of course, I contribute my plastic, metal, resin and airbrush credentials, which are not so wide spread among ship modelers. Cheers Rob

Very nice start Peter, I will follow your build, as I never build a Spit and have only two 1/48 ones in stash. When I'm grown up, maybe I will purchase a Tamiya Spitfire. Two questions remain, is the Mk. IX IP identical and do you plan to lower the loop of the seatbelts a bit, they look a bit strange in the side view, the way, they are draped over the upper bar. Cheers Rob

Quite some bending involved with these sneaking exhausts. The whole engine section looks great, with a nice 'feel' for the materials. Cheers Rob

Nice and smooth Phil, time for some colors . Cheers Rob

No problem Martin, humor is an individual thing and I'm sometimes on the not completely political correct side either. If I'm overboard in one way or another, I value it, if someone tells me, that he's offended. It's always best to talk about sensitivities and not dismiss the humor for all the correctness. . Cheers Rob

Sorry Martin, not so funny this time, as there are thousands of refugees drowning near my island every year. Of course, you can't know that, just to let you know. Cheers Rob

Thanks Phil, but no place for a Houdini rigging , I will somehow pull through, but it may take a while. Cheers Rob

Very sorry to hear about your loss. They are a part of the family and will be missed. Can't imagine to loose my dog. I hope she had a wonderful live. Cheers Rob

Positively trashy, I might add , I like the worn look of your Mig Martin. I know the feeling, I only wear my glasses on night drives in the car. Would I wear them permanently, I would feel like half death, It's a too hard decline to get used to. Luckily my eyes are better now, than some years ago. Doing a lot of outdoor activities with wide views and not only staring on tiny plastic parts through magnifiers and onto computer screens helps a lot. I also know the feeling to not get the right ambition for some builds, without having an obvious reason, but good to see that you pulled through. It happens, but then there are builds, where it's hard to stop and that's the good news. Cheers Rob

What a wonderful looking car Mark. Pity you dropped it, but good to hear, that all is fixable. I'm with Peter, as I try to paint car bodies and motorbikes in one go, but I think you have painted all the red parts in one instance and only polishing and clear coat at different times.

Fantastic looking plane, the detailing of the engine and wheel covers please the eye Sasha. Cheers Rob

Wonderful PE work Bill, sometimes it's funny to see the contrast between highly detailed PE details and coarse molded plastic surrounding it, but primer and paint will heal that. Cheers Rob

I'm very cautious with paint fumes and mostly sanding dust too. I use my booth and a respirator mask when spraying since years. When I'm spraying hot paints, I leave the room after application and let the air clean through draft. Luckily my cave is a workshop and is the complete basement of the house, so no stink in the living areas. I'm using airbrushes since my twens, but then mostly on paper for illustrations and on motorcycle helmets. By the time, I had a small flat, where I brushed without a mask and booth. Sometimes, I could detect, where a glass stood on my desktop by the circular non residues, where it stood. Oh my, poor old lungs and by this time I was smoking on top. Cheers Rob

Very nice Gary, I'm getting goose pimples by the freezing look. I tried washes only to the same effect like you on some figures once and like you decided for a mixed approach. I have no idea, how working with washes only should work, as there is not enough coverage. Your helping hand will come - err - handy. I received mine a week ago, a similar construction, I plan to use for rigging tasks and soldering of course. Cheers Rob

I guess, you have to switch the 'View Signature' button to enable your sig, Peter. It's above the field where you entered your signature. Cheers Rob

My last idea is, that maybe something is cached there by your browser. I would try to delete cached data and restart the computer and try again. Cheers Rob

You don't see that in your signature settings screen? Then it's up to the Admins I think. @Peterpools You have to open the menu under your username in the upper right corner of the screen, chose 'Account Settings' and then on the next screen chose 'Signature' on the left sided menu, to edit yours. Cheers Rob