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DocRob

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  1. DocRob
    I really like what I see, soldered metal, great, a WIP would be great. Cheers Rob
  2. DocRob
    Thanks for the link, which I have not seen before. Mine will be strictly MK.I, as I will go for a silver dope finish and like the wooden IP. Cheers Rob
  3. DocRob
    Great work Peter. can remember the flap/wing assembly was a bit fiddly, with all the options, but as you said, following the manual is essential. The pictures show, everything is aligning cleanly, good job. Cheers Rob
  4. DocRob
    Thank you Phil, I didn't know before either, but this result is what I hoped for and expected. Cheers Rob
  5. DocRob
    The first layer of Polish brown is applied. Opposite to the corrugated wings, I used slightly thicker color and worked it into the surface step by step with dabbing moves, followed by streaking brushes, very lightly along the fuselage. I used a mix of Abteilung basic earth and olive green for the mix, which will be varied for other layers, which will be applied after drying. The result looks a bit streaky, but this will become finer and finer with every pass of the brush. The application method needs some patience. Cheers Rob
  6. DocRob
    De nada Gaz, it's always easier too adopt a new technique, when others shared their experiences. I have often profited from you all, this way. Cheers Rob
  7. DocRob
    Nice detail work and great explanation about what you did. These open hull tanks are full of detail and not easy to build and paint. Cheers Rob
  8. DocRob
    Thank you Peter, oil painting works as expected, it has it's positive aspects, like very fine layering, perfect ability to blend colors, like you mentioned, painting and primary weathering in one stage, ... But it has limitations as well. Masking would not be recommended as the very heavy thinned oil color will go under the masks and if masking material sticks onto oil painted surfaces without destroying them is also a question. I guess, oil painting is limited to monochrome (maybe two color) subjects, which shouldn't look new. I can imagine using oils for ships, specially for the hull, where you can accentuate the different panels, easy made with a flat brush. Tanks are also a possibility and If everything works out with the PZL, there is a ready build 1/16 Chinese Tanquette waiting for an interesting monochrome paint job, including the commander. In the moment, MR. Surfacer and levelling thinner works good for me and if I've found a combo like this, I use it exclusively, as I know all the pros and cons. I try to learn new techniques with every build, some builds, I only started because of new techniques to conquer. This is made easier, if you have some trusty elements in a build and primer is so important. Cheers Rob
  9. DocRob
    If you ask me now, I would say immediately, but then I look at my stash and find so many temptations. Honestly I can't tell. For now, I have the excuse, that I wait for my Brassin MG's. I'm also not sure about the camo and tend to a North African scheme. Cheers Rob
  10. DocRob
    The free hand camo looks great Phil. Will you weather heavily? If so, I would give some of the skirts some dents and bruises and may take one or two off. Cheers Rob
  11. DocRob
    Some more ICM plastic arrived today. The 1/32 Gloster Gladiator MK. I. Browsing through the box shows nicely detailed plastic, which is broken down into not too many parts. Compared to my recent IBG PZL. 11 build, that will be a fast build, I guess. There is less detail and no PE included. Unfortunately there are no seat belts supplied either, so I will have to raid other kits, maybe my Tamiya Mosquito, where I have bought some HGW spare belts. I somehow like these interwar designs and the Gladiator will be an easy build, beside from flat wire rigging. I will build her in a silver dope finish, which looks better than the spinach and barf camo. Cheers Rob
  12. DocRob
    First oil color is on. I mixed the Polish gray according to my reference Hataka color (upper dot on the carton), using Abteilung oils, in this case black and faded German gray and Abteilung's fast drying thinner (second dot) as a base layer. For application, I used mainly a saw brush and started with a medium thinned (milk consistence) gray mix, to cover the whole underside of the wing. After a short (not completely) drying time I applied a darker and way thinner mix only on the corrugated metal in the direction of the airflow, working wet in wet. Another short drying period was followed by a very dry mix of very light color (dot number four), applied with a very flat angled brush from wingtip to wingtip, for highlighting the spars. Last, I used a darker shade of the heavy thinned mix, randomly dotted onto the corrugated sheets. Finally I used the dry saw brush, to blend a bit in the direction of the airflow and dotted some dry paint onto the metal planked edges. I like the result, which is a super thin layer, not obscuring any detail. Hard to see on the pics, though. Cheers Rob
  13. DocRob
    Since a year, I'm using oils more often and not only for some thinner spread dots for weathering. It started with replicating wood texture and leather surfaces and the next step was to paint complete figures with oils. I started to enjoy the fine layering and blending effects and the thought was born to paint a complete kit with oils. I have no real plan, how to do it and will start and see how everything works. Cheers Rob
  14. DocRob
    Better late than never , thank you Mark. Cheers Rob
  15. DocRob
    Thanks Carl, the shield was made, because I don't wanted to use adhesive tape on the fragile backside of the engine and fixed it into place with some strips of tape to the crankcase. I know about the Tamiya primer, but the Mr. Surfacer does the job very good. Cheers Rob
  16. DocRob
    Prime time - err - primer time. Since I can't get my prime Tamiya rattle can primer anymore to my island, I changed to Mr. Surfacer, thinned wit two thirds of leveling thinner and sprayed with one bar air pressure, which works great and looks almost like the Tamiya stuff. The ratio and pressure was a tip of a LHS-keeper here in Spain, and I love the results. Maybe tomorrow, I will start with oil brush painting, which makes me a bit nervous, as I never tried it before. Cheers Rob
  17. DocRob
    I take, by LERX you mean the front wingies, Carl? Nice lerx-ing if I was right , keep on the nice work. Cheers Rob
  18. DocRob
    Some more pics from the plastic are on Modelling News. The level of detail seems to be fabulous, but I'm out, anyway. I don't have the place to build, paint and display the Lancaster, but I like the idea, that the wings are removable. In the unlikely case, that Border issues a 'nose only' kit, I will bite and would like to build it up only half shelled by fuselage parts. The Modelling News: Preview: More photos, this time of kit parts of Border Model's new Lancaster B.MK.I/III in 32nd scale
  19. DocRob
    @KevinM, @GazzaS, @Peterpools, Thank you Señhores. I'm not finally decided about the body panels, but tend to leave them open in the end. There is too much fine detail to see and I feel, that the open panels don't distract that much from the elegant shape of the plane, a reason, why I normally leave the fuselages closed. Cheers Rob
  20. DocRob
    The cockpit looks great, nice paintjob Mark. Cheers Rob
  21. DocRob
    Today I added the wheel struts, which are reinforced with a PE strip, to get the angle right, easy, after the CA settled, I glued the plastic struts into their holes in the fuselage and let the weight of the kit taught the PE strips. I installed the wing guns, which were fixed into a bent PE bracket and pre-painted. Before gluing in the guns, I removed their barrels and drilled a 0,5 mm hole instead to mount the burnished brass barrels after painting. Next was gluing the wing parts together, no problems here, but you have to be careful, not to destroy surface details with gluey fingerprints, as they are not easy to replicate with the corrugated structure. For a while, this will be the last view into the fuselage. I plan to show the panels in open position finally, but will glue them in place temporally with a tiny amount of white glue (They fit like a glove). The machine guns will be added later, along with some detail painting. This is only a mock up pic, with the wings only dry fitted onto the fuselage. I plan to paint fuselage and wings separately and join them after decaling. Cheers Rob
  22. DocRob
    Hola Señhores, today I received my Do-17 kit in 48 scale. It's the ICM plastic for a Z1, Z2, Z3 or Z5 and includes masks, phew, resin wheels and floating device and colored PE for the pit along some new decals for eight planes. There wer to many tasty Do-17 / Do-217 builds around to let it pass. The only letdown is the 'Kampfstift' title of the boxing. To my knowledge the Do-17 was never named like this. The typical nick was 'Fliegender Bleistift' (flying pencil). Cheers Rob
  23. DocRob
    Thanks Hubert, the smoke clears more and more. Cheers Rob
  24. DocRob
    Thank you Hubert, for passing the information of the repainting and your detailed and beautiful pictures. The layout of the ignition is completely clear now, but I wonder, what IBG molded onto the front side of their cylinders, looking like a spark plug and being connected to a screw in the crank case with the PE-wire. There is no trace of that in your picture. I cropped one picture of the Bitskrieg resin engine, which featured the same thingy on the front side near the casing for the rocker arm, but they also seem to show the spark plug placement on both sides of the cylinder. Cheers Rob I
  25. DocRob
    Your Tiger looks great, heavy but convincingly weathered, which adds to the nice camo paint job. Cheers Rob
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