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DocRob

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  1. DocRob
    The free hand camo looks great Phil. Will you weather heavily? If so, I would give some of the skirts some dents and bruises and may take one or two off. Cheers Rob
  2. DocRob
    Some more ICM plastic arrived today. The 1/32 Gloster Gladiator MK. I. Browsing through the box shows nicely detailed plastic, which is broken down into not too many parts. Compared to my recent IBG PZL. 11 build, that will be a fast build, I guess. There is less detail and no PE included. Unfortunately there are no seat belts supplied either, so I will have to raid other kits, maybe my Tamiya Mosquito, where I have bought some HGW spare belts. I somehow like these interwar designs and the Gladiator will be an easy build, beside from flat wire rigging. I will build her in a silver dope finish, which looks better than the spinach and barf camo. Cheers Rob
  3. DocRob
    First oil color is on. I mixed the Polish gray according to my reference Hataka color (upper dot on the carton), using Abteilung oils, in this case black and faded German gray and Abteilung's fast drying thinner (second dot) as a base layer. For application, I used mainly a saw brush and started with a medium thinned (milk consistence) gray mix, to cover the whole underside of the wing. After a short (not completely) drying time I applied a darker and way thinner mix only on the corrugated metal in the direction of the airflow, working wet in wet. Another short drying period was followed by a very dry mix of very light color (dot number four), applied with a very flat angled brush from wingtip to wingtip, for highlighting the spars. Last, I used a darker shade of the heavy thinned mix, randomly dotted onto the corrugated sheets. Finally I used the dry saw brush, to blend a bit in the direction of the airflow and dotted some dry paint onto the metal planked edges. I like the result, which is a super thin layer, not obscuring any detail. Hard to see on the pics, though. Cheers Rob
  4. DocRob
    Since a year, I'm using oils more often and not only for some thinner spread dots for weathering. It started with replicating wood texture and leather surfaces and the next step was to paint complete figures with oils. I started to enjoy the fine layering and blending effects and the thought was born to paint a complete kit with oils. I have no real plan, how to do it and will start and see how everything works. Cheers Rob
  5. DocRob
    Better late than never , thank you Mark. Cheers Rob
  6. DocRob
    Thanks Carl, the shield was made, because I don't wanted to use adhesive tape on the fragile backside of the engine and fixed it into place with some strips of tape to the crankcase. I know about the Tamiya primer, but the Mr. Surfacer does the job very good. Cheers Rob
  7. DocRob
    Prime time - err - primer time. Since I can't get my prime Tamiya rattle can primer anymore to my island, I changed to Mr. Surfacer, thinned wit two thirds of leveling thinner and sprayed with one bar air pressure, which works great and looks almost like the Tamiya stuff. The ratio and pressure was a tip of a LHS-keeper here in Spain, and I love the results. Maybe tomorrow, I will start with oil brush painting, which makes me a bit nervous, as I never tried it before. Cheers Rob
  8. DocRob
    I take, by LERX you mean the front wingies, Carl? Nice lerx-ing if I was right , keep on the nice work. Cheers Rob
  9. DocRob
    Some more pics from the plastic are on Modelling News. The level of detail seems to be fabulous, but I'm out, anyway. I don't have the place to build, paint and display the Lancaster, but I like the idea, that the wings are removable. In the unlikely case, that Border issues a 'nose only' kit, I will bite and would like to build it up only half shelled by fuselage parts. The Modelling News: Preview: More photos, this time of kit parts of Border Model's new Lancaster B.MK.I/III in 32nd scale
  10. DocRob
    @KevinM, @GazzaS, @Peterpools, Thank you Señhores. I'm not finally decided about the body panels, but tend to leave them open in the end. There is too much fine detail to see and I feel, that the open panels don't distract that much from the elegant shape of the plane, a reason, why I normally leave the fuselages closed. Cheers Rob
  11. DocRob
    The cockpit looks great, nice paintjob Mark. Cheers Rob
  12. DocRob
    Today I added the wheel struts, which are reinforced with a PE strip, to get the angle right, easy, after the CA settled, I glued the plastic struts into their holes in the fuselage and let the weight of the kit taught the PE strips. I installed the wing guns, which were fixed into a bent PE bracket and pre-painted. Before gluing in the guns, I removed their barrels and drilled a 0,5 mm hole instead to mount the burnished brass barrels after painting. Next was gluing the wing parts together, no problems here, but you have to be careful, not to destroy surface details with gluey fingerprints, as they are not easy to replicate with the corrugated structure. For a while, this will be the last view into the fuselage. I plan to show the panels in open position finally, but will glue them in place temporally with a tiny amount of white glue (They fit like a glove). The machine guns will be added later, along with some detail painting. This is only a mock up pic, with the wings only dry fitted onto the fuselage. I plan to paint fuselage and wings separately and join them after decaling. Cheers Rob
  13. DocRob
    Hola Señhores, today I received my Do-17 kit in 48 scale. It's the ICM plastic for a Z1, Z2, Z3 or Z5 and includes masks, phew, resin wheels and floating device and colored PE for the pit along some new decals for eight planes. There wer to many tasty Do-17 / Do-217 builds around to let it pass. The only letdown is the 'Kampfstift' title of the boxing. To my knowledge the Do-17 was never named like this. The typical nick was 'Fliegender Bleistift' (flying pencil). Cheers Rob
  14. DocRob
    Thanks Hubert, the smoke clears more and more. Cheers Rob
  15. DocRob
    Thank you Hubert, for passing the information of the repainting and your detailed and beautiful pictures. The layout of the ignition is completely clear now, but I wonder, what IBG molded onto the front side of their cylinders, looking like a spark plug and being connected to a screw in the crank case with the PE-wire. There is no trace of that in your picture. I cropped one picture of the Bitskrieg resin engine, which featured the same thingy on the front side near the casing for the rocker arm, but they also seem to show the spark plug placement on both sides of the cylinder. Cheers Rob I
  16. DocRob
    Your Tiger looks great, heavy but convincingly weathered, which adds to the nice camo paint job. Cheers Rob
  17. DocRob
    Thanks for the pics Martin. It almost seems as if the IBG kit has more surface details than the one in your photos. They must have got the original wrong for sure . The stressed skin effect looks great with the harsh lighting, IBG didn't care about that. Other pictures of the Krakow Museum PZL show a very glossy paintjob, but in your pictures it looks more realistic matte. Does anybody know, if they repainted the PZL or was the gloss only photoshop magic? The volcano is indeed threatening here too. After I removed ash for some hours yesterday, today I awoke in the middle of the night with itchy eyes and the feeling, I could only breath with half of my lungs and had some bad headaches . The eruption doesn't seem to stop soon and I never looked so often for the wind prognosis. Cheers Rob
  18. DocRob
    Nicely detailed sub assemblies you built there Phil, Can't wait to see the cockpit develop. Cheers Rob
  19. DocRob
    Nice, I like those cars with their needless opulence. That's maybe, because I don't have to drive them . Cheers Rob
  20. DocRob
    Superclean and super detailed work on the engine Peter, your ignition wiring looks phenomenal. I was about to write, that there is no need for a resin engine, when I saw, that Tamiya may have missed the black metal fairings around the lower parts of each cylinder. I remember these well, because I built mine with the Brassin engine and they where a pain to mask and paint. Cheers Rob
  21. DocRob
    The cockpit looks great John, albeit the seat seems to be a bit thick casted, which is relatively prominent due to the aluminum color. Cheers Rob
  22. DocRob
    @harv, @Peterpools, @GazzaS, @Kaireckstadt: Muchas gracias Amigos. @HubertB, I knew, I should have looked deeper into some source material . Now I know, that my engine lacks the ignition wiring. I will spend a lot of work on the fairings, to distract from my failures with the engine. I ordered an ICM Gloster Gladiator MK.1 kit yesterday, so I will have a second chance with the Bristol Mercury. Cheers Rob
  23. DocRob
    The last days, were full of distractions from the volcano thing, which nags always in the back of the head, as you can do nothing about it, a strange feeling. These distractions were mostly not modelling related, but I managed to close the fuselage and attach the tail. I glued the fuselage firs on the bottom side, because I noticed a small, but closable gap on the upper side. After curing, the upper side was glued without troubles with the help of some rubber bands. The rudders are a bit strange designed and you should test fit and open the holes for the rudders with a 1mm drill bit. Cheers Rob Waiting for the glue to cure. The surface detail of the kit is absolutely top notch. Like most times, not to much of the cockpit area remains in vicinity, but the silver color helps a bit.
  24. DocRob
    Thank you Peter, since today we were hit by the ashes of the volcano as the win is now from the north. Nothing compared to what the people of La Palma are going through, but here things are turning black now, literally. I was surfing in the morning and on my way back home, I snapped this shot of the ash clouds. Cheers Rob
  25. DocRob
    That's a big gun for a tiny tank. With the armor shields applied, you can clearly see the improvisation, construction wise. Must have been very cramped inside and behind the shields. I like the weathering on the lower part and gun. Cheers Rob
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