HubertB

This is certainly no Tamiya Corsair or P-51 ... But you know what to expect. Will follow this one Hubert

I’m no expert, but would a thin veil of silver over a white background work ? Hubert

I do my best to untidy it, but frankly, I clean and order it after each working sequence (few and rather sparse, unfortunately). I have found this makes my modelling more enjoyable in the end, and it also protects whatever little work I achieve from a probing, nosy, curious cat Hubert

Fair point, Johann. Sorry about my comment. My post has been edited and the (rather daft - let’s face it) offending sentence deleted. And these models are truly outstanding ! Hubert

Some wing ribs and drawings ...The ribs were cut using the Silhouette Curio. The drawings were downloaded on the net, and - what a surprise ! - did not prove that accurate ... But I found some original Piper blueprints online. When I had sorted out the blueprints pertaining to the PA-22, out of the 486 blueprints covering the wj-hole family from PA-15 to PA-22, I could draw an accurate drawing of the tubes frame structure (so the only accurate scale drawing is mine, on the right of the pic, showing the frame) The pile of ribs on the left are rejects, where I took into account a too-thick wing skin ... Hubert

Ordered, and received very quickly, some additional HobbyZone modules. Two brilliant additions to their range: the "electronic device holder", and the instruction sheet holder, that clips on top of the upper row modules. I had to move my instruction sheet holder to the sidez, as they woudl have interfered with my bench lighting. And I glued an additional ridge at the extremity of the electronic device holder, so that I coudl use it to hold reference books. (and now, I have a bench that can accomodate even Ernies's biggest kits, or a 1/200 battlewagon ) Hubert

Brilliant build , and the sepia rendering looks stunningly real ! (and thank God, DH went on to produce beautiful airplanes, after this ugly duckling ) Hubert

+1 ! They just show what can be achieved by a gifted paper modeller, and how far their design has gone thanks to CAD, compared to the old Eastern Block models of the 70s and early 80s And if, like me, you believe that ships have to be in 1/200 to be "meaningful", then paper models are about the only option you can have (and a lot cheaper than the big Trumpeter plastic battlewagons, great as they are). Hubert

Good catch Ernie. I had the Avia once in the past, then although it's a very good looking aircraft of my ear of predilection, I decided I would not build it and sold it off. As for Fisher kits, they soon been rarer than hen's teeth, unfortu ately for Paul. And finally, the Hornet needs correcting around the nose / vanopy rails area. Did Iain not have a WiP on LSP ? Hubert

If you really looked for them (like me), you’d be really surprised by the number of 1/32 models that fill my bill, Gaz Now, considering my output, tiddlywinks may be an option for my spare time Hubert

Well, for me it’s the aboslute rerverse: guns, bombs, camos, and Nazi swastiks are an absolute repeller. Whilst I understand the marketing reasons for a C-47, I am still waiting for a HpH DC-3 .... Hubert

I am with Gaz on the ‘58 ... Btw, both exist as 1/32 paper models. I happen to have the B-58 paper model file. And this is an outstanding model. The same apparently can be said for the big Tupolev model. Hubert PS : Ernie, your bench is now more orderly, but methink you made it too small (although, whatever their initial size, benches end-up being a square-foot )

Nice subject. I confess my utter ignorance. Is it 1/32, or the abomination 1/35 ? Hubert

Looks as outstanding as your props (which I cannot praise enough) Hubert

Nice job Gaz (And I am with Ivan, all this plastic turned into 109s gives me the creeps ) Hubert

I have tried both, with a single hole or many holes. It works about the same, and that the air could be sucked through a tiny (less than 0.5 mm) hole amazed me the first time. (And made me wonder what it can be when this hole happens in the hull of a spacecraft, or a submarine). I’d say the number of holes is just commen sense judgement. If you have a big cavity, more than one hole will help suck air more quickly. And you want the process to be as fast as possible before the plastic cools down and cannot be formed. Hubert

If you use male molds (we keep in the same vein as krow, don’t we ? ) you will not have sharp corners, and your mold will in theory have to be smaller by the thickness of the plastic you are forming on top of it. If you want better definition, even panel lines, and mold a piece the same size as your original, then you need to use a female mold, i.e. 1) make your master, then 2) make a mold in a rigid matter (resin, plaster) around this master. You will need to have a suction hole in this female mold. Best is to insert a piece of monofilament - that will not adhere to the mold matter - or wire, « planted » in you master part. If its diameter is half the thickness of the plastic you are forming, or less, there will be no dimple where the suction hole is. Make sure your mold is large enough to cover the grid of your vacforming machine, so that air can only go through the small hole you have done. 3) heat and form your plastic sheet on ths female mold. If all vacs used the female mold method, then it would have a greater success than it sees nowadays : better formed parts, surface detail where it matters, i.e. on the surface of the molded part, easier to achieve conformity to the desired dimensions, and finally clear definition of where to cut the part from the backing sheet. Unfortunately, only a handful of British kit manufacturers ever used it... A final note. PETG (one common commercial brand in Europe is Vivak, by Bayer) is the only transparent material that does not yellow with age. It has one drawback however, in that it will trap ambient moisture, a bit - to a much lesser degree - like cotton. When you form it, controlling the temperature is critical. A bit too cold, and the sheet will not form. A bit too hot, and steam bubbles from trapped moisture will form inside the sheet. On typical chinese dental vac-forming machines that you find relatively cheap on ebay, the window between too cold and bubbles is something like 2 or 3 ... seconds. To get better results, it is recommended to do what plastic injecters do, i.e. dehydrate the PETG sheet. Two hours in your kitchen oven at low temerature (50 to 60 ° C) should do the trick. HTH Hubert

Sorry guys, the irony of announcing French subjects from WnW was too good to miss on this date Hubert

Damn, I have been unmasked by Kent Hubert

A Spad XII « canon », and a Caudron G3 ! And history will record it’s been announced first, here, on LSM, on April 1st 2019, by a Frenchman (the date it’s been announced being the most important piece of information) Hubert ( )

Cool project . I think, but I may be wrong, that it is the same Pegasus that were planning an IM 1/32 Ryan NYP « Spirit of St Louis ». They got entangled in a financial dispute with the Korean tool-maker, and the molds were held « hostage » by the tool-maker... To think there might be somewhere perfectly viable tools for a 1/32 IM Ryan NYP ... Hubert

I remember having had (private) discussions with Glenn about this one back in early 2012 ... I hope this could be a good omen for another of my pet projects, which we discussed at the same time Hubert

You keep besting yourself, Kent Hubert

For some reason, my heart missed one or two beats, when I misread "zeros" instead of "eights" in your post, Jeff ... O well, here is hoping Hubert

I did not leave any of my favorite Schwarzwalder Torte either Sorry, Jeff, maybe next time ... (to quote a French politician « Promises only commit those who believe in them » ) Hubert