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Really nice Phantom Danny. For the rear exhaust area, I did one leaving everything as from the kit and the second, I cut apart the stabilizers like you have. This is my F+4E where I cut them apart: And here's my F-4D where I installed them as is. I do recall on the D the fit was much better. As for the GT burner cans, their quality is really hit or miss. Some stuff is quite nice and others are disappointing. Carl

She occasionally goes in to check on me and make sure I'm not trapped under a pile of models. As I've mentioned previously, the biggest threat is my two boys coming down and picking kits to build. I once saw a collection that had 5,000 kits in it and pics of a 10,000 one. Thankfully my LHS bought the latter one and are slowly putting it up for sale.

Isn't it? Nevermind the HpH kits in there too.

Looks good to me Harv. I like Rob's description of it. Carl

The Corsair is still my absolute favourite prop fighter. Plus I suspect JohnB would have enough to equip all of Task Force 77.

I had a third one but sold it. So I was at least trying to spread them around.

Rog, I'm always learning stuff from other folks. That's why I'm more than happy to share what I've learned. With Mr Color, if you're curious about the coverage, hopefully this helps give you an idea of the coverage. I just finished my Bandai 1/144 Millennium Falcon using Mr Color for the main hull colour. This was a new bottle of paint and the only one I used. It's at least 3/4 full still so you don't need much.

More like I've got free time these days while I'm still recovering from my triple bypass.

Thanks John! I really hated doing road wheels until I figured out to use a circle template. I have one in stainless steel made by Hasegawa. The circles it has go up in diameter by 0.5mm so it's easy enough to find the right size.

Plus a B-17F and a B-24J...and three 1/72 Millennium Falcons. I need to try building one of those Fisher kits one day.

Thanks Phil! The hardest part of the build is painting the road wheels. So with that done, the rest should be ok. It's got the Magic Tracks so minimal cleanup which is nice.

Thanks Rob! I don't think it's eligible for the D-Day GB. I'm building it as a late version and the markings I have in mind are Spring 1945.

It's Year of the Rat according to the Lunar Calender but in my case I think Year of the Lancaster is more appropriate. I won the WNW Lanc from Ernie in the Christmas raffle here on LSM and I ended up winning the HK one in the anniversary GB raffle on LSP! My wife wants to know where I'm going to put them once they're done.

Looks like you got the important AM bits for the BF110. I looked over the Revell instructions and they still goofed up on the tailwheel assembly so watch out when you get to that bit.

I think the D is coming out in March. Hobby Search have it listed for then. Anyone got some nice Tiger Meet markings for the two seater? Carl

So very organized there Dale and Wumm. My stash has grown quite a bit in the last while. So it's gotten a bit cluttered. Looking into my part of the basement: The view from the other corner: The gory closeups: The cars and WNW corner: Armour and ZM: Zoids and Star Wars: Planes! The reference library: There's a bunch of RC cars across the top of most of the shelves as well.

Lacquer paint is definitely smellier than acrylic. Personally, I don't think they're as bad as enamels. They dry faster than acrylic paints do so no long drying times. Generally, they spray much nicer too as they have finer pigments. Tamiya only started releasing lacquer paints last year. So they don't have a huge range of colours but they keep adding to it constantly. Compared to their acrylics, they are thinner in viscosity so need less thinning (if any). For clean up, use lacquer thinner as water won't work. Hope that helps. But ask if you have more questions.

Day 2 was cleaning up all the attachment points and seams on the road wheels. Then it was time for some paint. I usually paint the rubber portion first and then use a circle template as a mask for the rim portion. Unfortunately my circle template didn't go big enough. Thankfully I had an Eduard paint mask set in the stash so was able to use that. I did one pair of road wheels in Dunkelgelb but I think I used too light a version. The circles on the edge of my bench are the Eduard paint masks. These were then installed onto the lower hull. And that's where I am as of today. Carl

Ok, I've pretty much finished off everything on my bench of late that was close to being finished: - Millennium Falcon - Y-Wing fighter - Toyota Celica WRC rally car So here's what I'm hoping will be a quick build with minimal AM. I think the only AM I have is from Dragon itself. I got started by following the instructions (!). Blasphemy, I know. I installed all the suspension arms, making sure I used the correct ones for the steel wheels at the rear. Then I started prep on all the road wheels. And that was the end of day 1.

Not in their acrylic paints. I believe they do in their recently released lacquer line.

FS stands for Federal Standard and is a reference for most of the colours used by the US military after WWII or thereabouts. The Tamiya colours listed on Smitty's link are Tamiya spray paints. They're really nice but lacquer based so I don't think they fit the bill.

Rog, I checked IPMS Stockholm and they don't list any straight matcha for Tamiya paints. https://www.ipmsstockholm.se/home/urbans-color-reference-charts-part-i/urbans-colour-reference-charts-united-states/ Since you're using acrylics, try Gunze Mr Hobby. They have FS colours straight from the bottle so no mixing needed. https://www.bnamodelworld.com/hobby-model-paints-thinners-paints-gsi-creos-gunze-mr-hobby If anything, they spray nicer than Tamiya acrylics. They do have a slightly longer drying time though. Carl

Well, it seems us Porco Rosso fans are getting our wish: https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235066026-132-savoia-s21-porco-rosso-resin-kit-by-hph-box-artpartstest-model-release-in-2020/ Time to start saving my pennies. Oh wait, we don't have pennies anymore. Carl

There are a few places you can leave stuff out. The engines could probably be reduced to just a block and heads for mounting the exhausts. If the bomb bay and nose gun bay are closed up, that's more you could skip. My next one will be reduced to as simple as possible.

Great news to hear you're sticking with the Mossie. I've built one, got one in the stash with a started Tse Tse scratch build conversion and I keep thinking of getting a third one. What stops me on number three is the price and just how complex the kit is. Nevermind the space for when it's done.