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Afternoon all,

Lots of progress on the big Stirling to update you on. Being a teacher on half term has its benefits and there's been a lot more bench-time than usual this week. The interior areas that are visible have had some more details made and added and a squirt of paint applied.
Here’s the forward fuselage and cockpit area:

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And the rear:

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It goes without saying that there is a huge amount to be added to the cockpit, but this is easily accessible and will added just before the canopy goes on to avoid any damage from the filling/sanding/scribing that’s to come. 

With the interior painted, I could join the fuselage halves together - the fit was pretty good and the interior bracing and bulkheads I'd made meant everything aligned as it should. With the joints glued and set I removed the opening for the mid-upper turret, and used plastic card to blank off the kit wing-roots which are incorrectly positioned:

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All the joints then got a coat of P38 car body filler, and were then sanded smooth. With this done, scribing could begin. I'm often asked about the tricks of scribing kits such as this, and the truth is it's very simple. Using plans as a guide and some dymo-tape, panel lines are instated with a Bare Metal Foil Co. scriber and then sanded smooth with some fine sand paper. This allows the curves of the fuselage to be done as well as the straight, flat panel joints. The whole fuselage on this only took an evening:

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These pictures show the finished fuselage - although being white my handiwork with the scribing doesn't show up at all well. Note also I've now added the wing spars:

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So now it's time to start thinking about adding the wings - they will slide nicely over the spars which interlock with the interior structure I made previously:

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The wings are just resting in the following two shots and the correct dihedral not set, but it gives an idea about the overall shape:

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As you can see, she's a big old brute. And once again, the wife isn't impressed  - but nothing new there...

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The next task will be adding the wings and making the joints good - with the classroom beckoning again tomorrow things will slow a little again but I'll update this when there's some more progress to report. 

Cheers,

Tom

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  • ThomasProbert changed the title to 1/32 Short Stirling
  • 2 weeks later...

Greetings all :)

More progress to update you on with the Super-size-Stirling!

Since the last update the wings have been glued into place and the joins with the fuselage made good. Due to some careful planning in regard to the the spars and mating surfaces, very little filler was actually required which was a bonus. 

Next up I thought it made sense to tackle the fin and stabilisers as then the model will be structurally complete and the major sanding and preparing of parts will be completed. The kit parts are pretty basic but the shapes are good:

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Each part was scribed after careful consultation of plans. I concentrated initially on the fin - it was sanded to the correct depth and then I epoxied a wooden dowel more or less along the rudder hinge-line to act as a spar and strong attachment point to the fuselage:

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After more checking of plans a hole was then drilled into the top of the fuselage for the dowel to pass through and into the top of the spar-box I'd made for the stabilisers, meaning a very solid join. This is not the case with the real aircraft I hasten to add (there are very beefy rear fuselage frames that support the fin) but none of this is visible on the model so I went for strength over accuracy:

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With the fin set and filled, I then turned my attention to the stabilisers. Stirlings are more often than not seen with the elevators in a drooped position when at rest, so I thought it best to do the same with mine. First I removed the elevators from the stabilisers:

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And then glued some thick plastic card along the hinge-line to blank off the rear of the stab and also act as a spar:

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More dowel was then run through the rear fuselage:

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And then the stabilisers we epoxied in place, with the dowel butting up against the rear spar of the stabs making a very strong join. I made a rudimentary jig on the kitchen table with pots of paint and bits and bobs (nothing too technical in this house of mine!) to ensure everything was good and true:

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The small protrusions on the rear of the fuselage was different shapes on either side, and one slightly higher on the fuselage than the other, so lots of P38 was used to correct the shapes and help align everything properly:

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When all the filling, sanding and rescribing was done - and a splash of primer applied - everything came out ok:

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Deciding to have the flaps dropped meant the gaping hole along the rear of the wing needed addressing. This is curved metal skin, upon which flap tracks run on the real thing. There are also some fuel cells visible, but my skills don't stretch that far and neither to have the inclination when so little will be seen when the flaps are in place. The solution to making this was remarkably simple - I just cut some thin plastic card to the approximate shape and glued it to the lower wing skin, allowed this to set and then gently bent it to shape and aligning it with the upper surfaces. This was then clamped whilst everything dried:

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And when dry it was trimmed to the correct shape, primed and... success!

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When it comes to making and adding the flaps themselves, the flap tracks etc. will be added then.

I have also removed the opening for the front turret:

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I am not completely convinced the shape is exactly correct yet - the nose may be a smidge too wide - but I'm going to leave this for a bit and see if any further remedial work will be needed whilst i get used to the new nose profile. 

So that brings you up to speed - something resembling a Stirling is slowly emerging from some bumps in plastic so I must be doing something right!

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As always, thanks for stopping by. Until next time,

Tom

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On 3/4/2023 at 9:15 PM, KevinM said:

Tom it is absolutely stunning what you guys can do with a vac I could even begin to fathom the process and techniques required.:unworthy:

Very kind, Kev - thank you!

The landing gear is certainly going to be the most challenging part of this build, so I thought I’d start with something relatively straightforward as a first, tentative step. 

When I inherited Cees’ parts he kindly threw in some spare HK Lancaster wheels which has been most helpful. The Stirling and Lancaster shared the same hub, but the Stirling’s tyre was larger. Plans consulted, I came up with a cunning plan…

First up, I used some Evergreen block strip of the correct size to enlarge the Lancaster tyre to the correct diameter. Using strip, rather than a sheet of plastic card, means they follow the contours of the tyre well and reduce the amount of sanding needed later. Here you can see the modified wheels with the strip added:

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Next, I used some tape to protect the hubs, and layered on some P38. The rear-most tyre has already begun the sanding to shape:

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Both tyres sanded:

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And then primed:

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Not bad - although the shoulders need rounding off a little more. A job for another day. 

Until next time,

Tom

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 3/10/2023 at 5:33 PM, Bomber_County said:

Stunning Tom, P38 creates a lot of dust, how do you get away with it in the kitchen…….the build is amazing. Having grown up in 3 Group country, the Stirling is a firm favourite…..

I do it over the sink in water so dust is minimal. The wife does tend to get a bit excited if I don’t!

Well… progress has slowed a little of late due to work, but I’ve made a tentative start on the very complex landing gear.

This is a bit of an experiment, if I’m being totally honest, as I’ve knocked up some gear using spare sprue. I’ve no clue about working with metal or solder, so this may (literally) fall flat on its face, but we’ll see. 

I always keep large sprue trees as it’s so useful when it comes to scratch work. I’ve chosen some that’s a little thicker (by 0.25mm) than the HK Lancaster gear legs as my logic is if such diameter can support the heavier weight of that kit, it should be able to hold the much lighter vacform Stirling. 

So… some sprue and lots of small metal pins which will be used to reinforce each join: 

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Following plans, I cut the main parts of the structure and these were then slowly put together. CA glue secured the metal pins in pre-drilled holes, and then when each ‘leg’ was complete TET was run into each join and allowed to dry for 24hrs to make a very strong join:

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Great care was taken to ensure each part of the gear was identical:

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The joins were then reinforced further with Milliput and sanded smooth:

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Next, the main cross members were added using more sprue and again strengthened with metal pins:

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And with the wheels added, they are starting to resemble the complex structure of the real thing:

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What I’m now going to do is temporarily fix the gear to the bays and leave it standing for a week. I’m off to Italy skiing so when I return, if the model is still standing securely on its gear I can call this a victory and crack on making and adding the rest of the detail - of which there is lots! If not, and I come back and it’s laying flat on its belly, it’ll be back to the drawing board and I may have to invest in a soldering kit and a whole lot of reading…

Stay tuned!

Tom

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  • 2 months later...

Time for and over-due update on the landing gear legs. The sprue structure has proved plenty strong enough so over the last few weeks I've been slowly making, adding and building up the details on these and have now more or less got the basic structures done and test-fitted. 

Lots of plastic card and Evergreen has been added to the basic sprue structure, and gradually it's all come to life:

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And after a glorious weekend away walking in The Lakes...

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...I thought I'd have a proper test-fit of the gear as well as take some piccies using the decent camera set up. The undercarriage isn't attached yet as there's lots of detail still to be made and added to the bays - not to mention the painting of both the bays and legs - but a set of metal pins inserted into the spars as mounting points and holes of the correct size drilled into the upper-most past of the gear legs means they are a snug push-fit and support the model without glue. 

I've also made the basic twin-rear wheel set up by utilising Beaufighter tail wheels and legs, which with some mods have done the job. Not perfect replicas, but once the bays and doors are finished off not much will be seen anyway. 

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It all looks very gangly at the moment, but when the undercarriage doors are added as well as the bomb bay doors, it should look the part.

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What to tackle next? The bomb bays or engines? Decisions, decisions. Onwards and upwards, as the old saying goes...

Until next time,

Tom

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Looking good. The Stirling was the most impressive of the 3 heavies IMHO, and you have captured its stance very well.

A pity that the Air Ministry requirement (literally) clipped its wings and potential …

Hubert

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi all,

The engines have been my recent focus, and considering the Stirling shared the same ‘power-egg’ as the Beaufighter, I utilised the cowls and engines (from the Revell Beau) which has made work much easier - considering all you get in the kit are these bumps in plastic: 

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First up, I assembled the cowls themselves, tarting them up a bit with some Evergreen and plastic card:

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The engines from Revell are actually quite good out of the box, and considering everything is black and very little will be visible, I built them OOB, painted them satin black and weathered them lightly with some oils. 

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Atop the engine nacelles are big carb and supercharger intakes. The MkIII Stirling had a longer intake than the earlier MkI, and handily the Revell Beau gives a good starting point to use. These were sliced and then extended with Evergreen:

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And then blended with filler:

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Next, the finished power-eggs were mounted to the plastic card firewalls I’d made previously when constructing the wings, the intakes added to the 12 o’clock position on the cowlings, and viola:

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A lot of this work has taken place al fresco as it’s been so warm of late:

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So, here we are as of now:

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I need to have a think about the oil coolers which hang low under the nacelles, but that’s a job for another day. 
 

All the best,

Tom

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  • 1 month later...

Howdy, partners…

I’ve now completed the main bomb bay structure as well as the wing bomb cells on the Stirling. 250+ pieces of individually cut Evergreen has got the job done - quite tedious but the results are worth it. There will still be some more to add when the bomb load goes in such as racks and some piping, plus the doors of course. 

On the real aircraft the divider between the gear bays and the outermost bomb cell is actually open with the truss work exposed, but I’ve gone for strength over accuracy as beefy card is needed for the wheel bays and general wing structure to give it enough strength to support the model. 
 

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I need to finish off the main gear bays but I’ve had enough if cutting plastic strip for the time being so will focus on something else!

All the best,

Tom

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