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Playing in the Sandbox Group Build Sept 1, 2024 - Jn 1, 2025

"Special" Tamiya P-51


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1 minute ago, 1to1scale said:

that would be a really hard one to cast in a one piece mold, you might need to lay it flat in a clamshell mold, see below.

Silicone_mold_resin_cast_figure.jpg

Yea, I noticed the resin trapped air and wouldn't flow down.  Guess I need to learn how to make a 2 part mold.

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3rd attempt was better, but FAR from where it needs to be.  I'm battling how to set up my mold, this is my 2nd mold I've built.  I'm struggling how to get the resin in, and I'm struggling with the blade being flexible instead of solid.  It is most definitely very frustrating. 

20190502_180313.jpg

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Thanks guys.  I may take a break from the props for now and continue on the fuselage to get closer to closing it up.  I'm busy getting a new type rating in May so the building rate will really slow down but this is my one and only project till it's all wrapped up.  I also need to figure out what type of hard points were on the wing for the drop tanks.  They're certainly not original Mustang ones.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Worked on the belly air system today.  An all white plane makes color decisions relatively easy, but I'm realizing that anything missed will stand out BIG time.  My goal is to have the fuselage closed by the end of June.  I'd love to have this thing wrapped up for a show in September but I highly doubt it right now.  As long as shes ready for San Marcos I'll be happy. 

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It looks like you did your mold vertical, from tip of the blade to root of the blade.

For a long and thin part like this one, I believe it is probably more efficient to do the mold « horizontal », with a big casting block along the leading or trailing edge. Thus any trapped bubbles have less way to do to escape from the viscous resin.

I have also read that having your mix cup high above the mold, to thin down the fillet of resin flowing down into the mold, has the effect of removing some of the bubbles trapped in the mixing process.

Hubert

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Looks like it's coming right along :). I'm considering building that a/c too as it really appeals to me. I have the decals ordered so I'll have to do some research on it. I don't know if you know it but there is a book named "Wet Wings and Drop Tanks" concerning this bird. I just ordered a copy on Amazon. Whenever you get the prop blades sorted out I might want to get a set from you if you don't mind doing that. Keep up the good work!!! :)

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On 5/13/2019 at 5:26 PM, HubertB said:

It looks like you did your mold vertical, from tip of the blade to root of the blade.

For a long and thin part like this one, I believe it is probably more efficient to do the mold « horizontal », with a big casting block along the leading or trailing edge. Thus any trapped bubbles have less way to do to escape from the viscous resin.

I have also read that having your mix cup high above the mold, to thin down the fillet of resin flowing down into the mold, has the effect of removing some of the bubbles trapped in the mixing process.

Hubert

Yes I agree,

Try casting lengthwise, with the thin edge down, and a long tapered mould stub attached to the thick side to better allow the sanding process after casting.

IMG_20190517_095820.thumb.jpg.976d79b303303103b4dc6afc8c6675d0.jpg

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1 hour ago, Wumm said:

Yes I agree,

Try casting lengthwise, with the thin edge down, and a long tapered mould stub attached to the thick side to better allow the sanding process after casting.

IMG_20190517_095820.thumb.jpg.976d79b303303103b4dc6afc8c6675d0.jpg

This is priceless! I couldn't quite picture how to accomplish this but the drawing helps immensely.   I've shaped all 4 blades now so I can experiment a little and not be terrified if something goes wrong.

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You're welcome Tony,

Once the mould is made, you can use a wedge to spread the slit apart while you pour the resin; and then remove wedge before is starts to set up, which will return the silicon to the correct shape for your part.

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