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DocRob

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Everything posted by DocRob

  1. That weird thing looks fantastic with your paintjob, keep rolling. Cheers Rob
  2. Thanks Jeff, still a long way to go, I have to get the look right, used, but not overused this time. Cheers Rob
  3. Muchas gracias Kai. Meanwhile the engine received some love, but some details still needed to be added or repaired, because I dropped the engine and broke some rockers and spark plugs. For painting, I used AK's Extreme Metals, which are great to work with. First I sprayed the complete engine in steel, then added some transparent blue (hard to see on the pics but it's there) on the heads of the cylinders for heat treatment, then used stainless steel for the rockers and finally aluminum for the casings. The exhausts were finished in copper. The whole engine got a black panel wash and then the steel pushrods were added. I will dirty the engine later with oil stains according to the general appearance of the Fokker. As a last step the ignition wires will be applied. The seat was sprayed light Aluminum and the was dabbed with AK's True metal paste in aluminum and dark aluminum, using my espresso machine as a guide for the look. The pic is bad, but gives an idea. Cheers Rob
  4. The bottle? Noooo wayyy , it has to be used in a properly way. Cheers Rob
  5. Nice Harv, I have to admit, that I'm to lazy to mask the inside. I mask the outside, spray the interior colour first and then the extrior colour. I may make an exeption for let's say a 109 with the wide open canopy Cheers Rob
  6. First I thought, I would use brass tube and use it structural, to give the inward bend front fuselage sides the correct widening. Instead my proposed solution, is to use a spar made from plastic sheet and cut the plastic framing to size. The plastic is soft and bendable, so I hope, I get it right. I don't think, that you can look that deep into the fuselage, that you will be able to spot the spar behind the ammo boxes. Cheers Rob
  7. I built their Raiden some years ago, my only Hasegawa build until yet, but it went together like a breeze. It built up almost by itself with me concentrating on painting and weathering. Was almost to easy to build without PE and resin . edit: Forgot, that I built the P-47D in Eduard outfit as Dottie Mae. A good kit too, but needed some extra work on the cowl and in the pit. Cheers Rob
  8. Nice and easy project, no rivet picking and the colour for the cockpit was misread by you, it's RLM 166, that's what 'what if' does to you . Cheers Rob
  9. Muchas Gracias Señhores, it's a daring but fun project. I wonder what will remain to be seen of the inner fuselage work through the opening for the pilot. I fear the moment, when I have to add the bent and partly misshaped inner frame into the fuselage halves, but for different reasons, I decided against rebuilding the frame from brass tubes. Let's see, if that was a wise decision Cheers Rob
  10. These are the sizes I have, got them cheap in a sale a while ago exactly for the planned purpose, using them for struts and tubing in WWI planes. I used them for the first time and like them, to be exactly. I used two of my three sizes. for the wing struts it was C-09 and for the seat, I used C-05. The numbers mean, you can push the Connecto into an inner diameter like the code says. The arm of a C-09 Connecto is square, measuring 0,6x0,6 mm, therefore fits into a 0,9 mm inner diameter tube max. With the flattened tubes, I made it worked well. The 05 variant is very easily bend, the others are quite sturdy. Hope that helps Cheers Rob
  11. Today I decaled the inner fuselage parts with plywood and the faded inside of the Lozenge. This will be sealed matte tomorrow and dirtied a little. The woodwork were done with oils on Tamiya tan. The scratch on the lower fuselage panel will not be seen, I grained this part only for fun. The parts will be varnished too and get a little treatment to show some use. Cheers Rob
  12. Thanks Phil, design yes, comfy no with the aluminum backrest. I will try something new painting the seat, using two different tones of aluminium colour, with liquid mask for chipping and wearing. That counts as preparation for my first swirled aluminum cowl for another future build. Another game of find the three differences with the kit seat and the Aviattic one. The cushion is part of the Aviattic set. Cheers Rob
  13. After thinking about, how to attach the wider Aviattic seat with the given plastic, I decided to build my own seat tubing, mainly because there are no attachment points for the plastic at all. I drilled 0,5 mm holes into the 'spar' and used 0,7 mm tube for the construction, which takes 0,5 mm brass rods for the attachment. For soldering the front connections, I used Albions Connectos again. The tube construction will be removed for painting and decaling of the fabric parts of the spar. Cheers Rob
  14. Congrats Fran, that's a stylish way, to present your great yellow Lib. Cheers Rob
  15. Thanks Jeff, it's such a cool looking plane, sleek and reduced with only this parasol wing. I hope, I like it enough, to be tough enough for the task . Cheers Rob
  16. Very nice, the way you are breezing through the build, I'm near tempted to start mine. Cheers Rob
  17. First paint is flowing. I primed the inside of the fuselage and spar behind the seat gloss white for decaling with Lozenge and Plywood. Then I masked fields between the inner struts with kabuki, using a sharp blade to cut the frames free. These were sprayed in RLM66 then. Tomorrow after drying, I will decal the innards and paint some oils for the wooden floor, to simulate woodgrain. The Aviattic decals are not cookie cut, but it was a fast job, to cut them out. Cheers Rob
  18. I have the same kit in stash and saw the flimsy construction of the track links. I haven't build the kit yet, but decided to go aftermarket for the tracks. Takom has a set available, where you click together the one piece track links which are already removed from the sprue. I clicked two together easily, without breaking the parts and the connection seems stable. There are ejector marks on the inside, but that's not a problem with the MK. IV Cheers Rob
  19. That is very true, sometimes you have to show yourself, that you can do it. Progress is a bit slow, because of a lot of processual thinking. The good side on the bad plastic is, it's good to work with, not brittle and I haven't broken any part yet, even the fragile inner framing, a topic I could make no mark on, on my two WNW builds, where I broke struts and frames. Cheers Rob
  20. The shortage is maybe caused, by the closing of Wingnut Wings. Everybody scored some last minute German Lozenge clad airframes and doing the base layer for the decals in exactly this Tamiya gloss white. Just a theory . Good that you found some bottles. I bought a ten pack in summer, watching my WNW stash and Lozenge- and/or wood- and/or linen decal jobs to make. Cheers Rob
  21. Very nice, I like the mottling, it looks so uneven even, in other words, right. Cheers Rob
  22. Back to the Fokker after all these festivities. If you are really bored by the perfectness of a Tamiya kit, this is for you. Some parts, I cleaned three times and still found blemishes while test fitting. Some parts, are barely recognizable as such on the sprues, they are just blobs of plastic, but there is nothing, which can't be solved by now. The good thing about the kit, is the general appearance of the fuselage covering fabric, which looks very realistic and you got the chance to use all your skills and tools. I don'tknow why, but the build has been motivating, where I can't explain why, I wanted to be sure about the fit of the fuselage, with the engine cowling mounted and test fitted for a second time. That was also necessary as I wanted to use the Aviattic PE firewall and access panel. The supplied firewall has no attachment lip to the four fuselage panels, it has to be glued flat on them, which I didn't like. I cut some spars from 0,5mm sheet, glued two together as a guide, cut a wider one, with the diameter of the hull, then attached the PE firewall and a last 0,5mm part as a guide for the cowling. As you can see, the front was taking shape, but the fuselage sides are bended inwards on the upper side. I loosely added another spar in a place, where it hopefully will be out of sight, to bend the fuselage correctly. First I thought about soldering the inner frame from brass tube, but with the spar, this seems unnecessary, I will try and use the horrible plastic part. (The spar is not final) Finally, I think I got it manageable. I never used that many tape and time while test fitting, but I think it was an important thing to do. Better now, than with painted parts. Cheers Rob
  23. A shame to do so, hope enough of the detail will remain in sight under the bubble top. Cheers Rob
  24. The skull would fit into one of these early German movies like 'Cabinet of Dr. Caligari' or others, which means, it looks perfect and fits the timeframe with it's design and making. What a badass Gotha. Cheers Rob
  25. Just do it, that's what LSM is for and I personally like to see a great variety of different subjects. It's not only about 109's and Spit's. A little off the trotten path is, where it gets really interesting. Cheers Rob
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