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BlrwestSiR

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Everything posted by BlrwestSiR

  1. Cees, I have spare outer wings so send me a PM and I can send to you know if no one else is closer.
  2. Looks like Rog cleaned out another hobby shop!!! Leave some kits for us mortals please! Carl
  3. Even though I'm trying to keep this build on the simpler side, I ended up cutting down the pilot's platform after all. I filled in the resulting hole with sheet styrene. I then made new sides for the platform for it to be at the correct height.
  4. Next up I assembled the tail planes. I had to fix the mounting pins though as HK moulded them onto the same side along with the location pins. I simply cut them off one side and them glued the trimmed off pins onto the other side. They fit well enough together even without the locator pins.
  5. In reading that HK moulded the landing lights into both wings and needing to fill one pair in, I wondered about the correct ones. They're just a pair of circles in the underside. So I carefully drilled them out and found some lenses to drop in place. I blanked them off from the inside. A quick coat of silver, drop the lenses in place and done.
  6. Thanks Kai! Glad to hear it worked out on your build.
  7. Thanks Peter! Definitely some of the errors should have been caught in QA. And sometimes the odd assembly sequences can be head scratchers. But thanks to some of the other members on here who've built this kit already it makes it easier.
  8. Nice start on this Cees. You were asking about leading edge slats on BM. Here's the page out of The Modern Phantom Guide. Although it's primarily on US F-4s, I believe the wings were the same on the British versions. This is the Wolfpack dropped flap set instructions. Again this is for the E/EJ hard wing but should be the same. Hope that helps and let me know if you want any more pics of the Wolfpack parts. Carl
  9. Thanks guys! I may not be working on the kit as much as I thought but I'm still having fun which is the main thing. While I was working on the MlG gear leg, I noticed the void on one side from the moulding process. I decided to fill this in so I used Apoxie Sculpt for that. I did the other legs at the same time. Here's a quick mock up of the one leg. Nothing's glued yet. And a test fit into the nacelle. The instructions have you install it prior to mounting the nacelles to the wings. I wanted to make sure it can be done the other way round and it can.
  10. I'm looking forward to this as well. I asked the shop where I've gotten Fly kits fr in the past and he's hoping to get them in soon. He may hold off a bit to try and get a better price on them which sounds perfectly fine to me. Carl
  11. Peter, Jumping around certainly had kept me moving forward on the build. It's also let me put off just how much work I want to do on the cockpit. As for the retraction locks, my understanding is that they're a postwar fit primarily used to keep the gear on static aircraft from collapsing. I checked some pics of the CWHM Lanc and couldn't see them in any of the images I have. Carl
  12. I'm not really building this kit in any sort of logical order. Sort of a "what do I feel like working on today" approach. Case in point I decided to work on the MLG legs. Here's one pair of legs stock. I had read that HK included the gear retraction locks and these need to be removed. They're the short bar between the two full length struts. I duly proceeded to remove them. At the same time I decided to redo the small struts on either side of the hinge. The one in front has had the retraction lock cut off and I've refined the hinge a bit. Here it is with replacement rods in place. Overall it's a straightforward fix. Except I have to repeat it three more times. Carl
  13. A quick update on the engines and nacelles. I collected all the required engine parts. This is for all four engines with two assembled in the background. I then painted the nacelles and assembled those. I decided to do the basic engine block as it holds the rad securely and I don't have to worry about it shifting. So a bit of overkill but day enough. You can definitely leave them out if desired as I mentioned previously. I also ordered the recent book by Richard Alexander on the Lancaster as it's been highly recommended. Carl
  14. Some good news. Thanks to Martin and the email address he provided I was able to order a replacement canopy. So hopefully that's on its way shortly and I'll be able to get back to the build. Carl
  15. Rog, looks like you cleaned out the hobby shop. Again. Carl
  16. The important question is will they include decals for Starscream from Transformers?
  17. Guess they needed something to replace the nose mounted cannon. Great looking prop. Carl
  18. Gary, your figures look great. The one you've reworked to give him a more natural pose is something I've never gotten a handle on. Carl
  19. There's an online shop out of Vancouver that has great prices on Fly and Special Hobby kits (especially since they're in $CAD) so I'll probably wait for them to get the kits in. Carl
  20. You don't. You can just glue the reduction gear housing to the inside of the backplate. There's also blanking plates for the exhaust ports, they're just not mentioned in the instructions.
  21. Thanks Phil and Peter. For the quick work on the nacelle, it really is a huge improvement. I decided to mock up an engine and see just how much would be visible through the opening. I put the basic engine block, rad and mount together. Inserted into the taped together cowl: From the front, the rad fills the entire opening. At the rear, you can see the rad as well. Looking up, it's really hard to make out anything short of using a flashlight and shining it in there. You can however, see the engine from the exhaust ports. There is an optional blanking panel I may use instead if I want to really simplify things for myself.
  22. Looks amazing. A couple questions Ernie. 1)- is the roof electric or pneumatic? 2)- what are you going to be dispensing through the gas pumps? Your famous moonshine? Carl
  23. I got the fit of the inner flap corrected sand it now sits flush. Neither one is glued in the pic. I then took a look at the nacelles and how they would fit to the wing. At this point I noticed the rad vent on the underside of the nacelle. The rear is moulded solid instead of being open. As well, the door sit on top of the nacelle and not in it. I decided to improve this a bit by cutting out the opening in the nacelle. I scribed it first. Then cut it using a razor saw. The opening was slightly undersized so I could sand it to the correct dimensions. Finally I thinned the edges of the door and fitted it in place. This took me about 20 minutes. I just have 3 more to do. One other thing though is I had planned to leave out the engines but they're now visible from below so I'm going to have at least do a partial engine inside the nacelles. So much for trying to keep it simple. Carl
  24. Thanks Gary! The seat is definitely a huge improvement. I hear you about wingtips. Mind you the Tamiya Spitfire ones have been a good fit.
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