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Hasegawa Fw190A-8/R2


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Good to see Doc...

This engine set is just so brilliant that I'm considering getting a couple more of them. An indication of the fit and fidelity of the parts...

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Once the first bank was assembled with the assistance of the brass template, this is the complete intake manifold mated to the front row. It fits perfectly and to the correct depth into the backs of all the cylinder heads.

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  • 1 month later...

Eduard provide resin pushrods for the cylinders, but advises you to to use 0.4mm wire for the breather pipes that run between heads and also join each cylinder. For those of you not blessed with the Metric system, this is 26 guage Craft wire or equivalent. I picked up a spool of black for the oil pipes, and will use silver for ignition leads and fuel pipes, as the P/E feet provided has a flat cross section and just doesn't like right.

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The recommended length of wire between covers is 6.1mm...

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However, my measurements make it closer to 5.66mm or thereabouts...

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Which means that I'm halving the distance to just short of 6mm on each wire, and pre-drilling the receiving ends shown here on each cylinder with a Micro bit to provide some stability.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks for the photo Martin.

1 hour ago, Kais said:

Gives a dimension to two decimals and says "or there abouts".
RESPECT.

 

Well, after all it's only a cheap plastic Caliper from Daiso. The point for those following is that you need to lop off about half a mil according to Eduard's measurements.

The wire I've chosen will be great for ignition leads, but is a tad 'bendy' for these straight pipes. And having 52 year-old eyes isn't helping much either.

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  • 2 months later...

Ball-breaker...

It's currently been shelved, with no work done since March. I have some time off in the next fortnight, with plans to continue with it this weekend. So stay tuned...

S

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  • 1 year later...

Enforced isolation makes for idle hands...

The rear of the BMW motor is a little gem of a moulding, bursting with details such as the Kommando-Gerät, fuel pump and Bosch generator. As is Eduard's wont, it sits at the end of a massive block of resin that must be removed. After a rough cut by coping saw, followed by a lot of sanding to achieve a level surface at the rear, we're left with a lovely little equipment suite that hopefully won't be hidden away too much once installed.

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The rear moulding attaches to a small brass ring from the P/E fret, and then on to the rear of the intake manifold shown above. This is most likely because Eduard have correctly anticipated that the sanding process naturally creates a slight convex mating surface, which when applied to to a similar interface would create a gap around the exterior. This brass ring fits that gap nicely, however it features four small tabs that must be bent to fit into slots in the resin piece. Be aware that these tabs are handed... Bend them the wrong way (as I did initially) and they won't fit!

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I get the distinct feeling that if I indulged in P/E work more often, I would have realised which way they bent without even thinking. I must get out of my comfort zone more often.

S

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Good to see you back on the 190.

6 hours ago, Wumm said:

This is most likely because Eduard have correctly anticipated that the sanding process naturally creates a slight convex mating surface, which when applied to to a similar interface would create a gap around the exterior.

It's a first to me that a producer takes users errors into account, great foresight ;).

Cheers Rob

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  • 2 months later...

No not as yet Harv...

I've painted the motor rear bright silver, and begun to Maskol off the sections that won't end up being black, but apart from that not much progress unfortunately. 

S

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  • 4 weeks later...

Ha!

I am immune to your feeble attempts to motivate me by using shiny examples of German technical whizz-bangery!

Got a little done today... Some experiments with adding some weathering and depth to the cylinder heads. The base silver is Tamiya TS-30 spray lacquer, the brightness goes away quite a bit when overcoated with clear. Because it's only been undercoated with primer but not sanded, the surface is a little pitted and rough, and it holds dissimilar pigments well. I'm using Artist's watercolour pencils for weathering, adding heavy blobs in the areas required; allowing it to dry, and then using a different brush dipped in water to wick away the colour until only the remnants in the ridges and crevices remain.

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I'm using these Faber-Castell pencils , as I find that the AK colour pencils have a little grease in their make-up, and it tends to stain the base colour a little. That's fine for other applications, but I'm trying for a cleaner look on this motor as the airframe I intend to do was only in service for a month before being lost in combat.

S

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  • 3 weeks later...

Yes Phil...

At this point, the plan is to have everything that can be opened to be exposed. The Eduard motor set is meant for the newer Revell kits, but it will fit the Hasegawa example I'm using so long as it's displayed in this florid state.

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Eduard do not include the exhaust louvres, upper gun trough panel, or the bulged cheek panels that cover the air intakes (one of more inaccurate parts of the Revell kit). The firewall and cowl guns will be sourced from the Aires Dora set. Hasegawa kit parts will be used for the others, apart from the exhaust louvres; which will be scratch built.

Work continues slowly... 

Eduard gives a colour call-out of silver for the base of the cylinders, however it appears that these featured a black base in the area below the baffles. At least according to this example recovered from a crash site.

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So black has been applied by brush, in a half-half mix of Tamiya acrylic and watercolour pencil. This custom mix is not as hardy as the straight acrylic paint, and can be rubbed with a cotton bud or scratched with the end of a toothpick to expose highlights in the silver lacquer base colour underneath.

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S

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On 3/14/2018 at 7:33 AM, Wumm said:

So, I got ahold of the Aires set No.2039 Wheelbay for Hasegawa kit, expecting it to be a simple drop-in replacement for the kit supplied parts. Once again, lovely detail here; much better than the kit part, and without the hassle of filling the latter's numerous sink holes.

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However... once inserted, it becomes clear that the main resin part is short by a couple of millimeters at both ends. I make it 3.33% of the total part length, not sure if this is an acceptable shrinkage percentage but I wouldn't expect so.

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Furthermore, it's clear that the mounts for the inner wing MG151's don't line up with the gun positions moulded into the kit wing parts. So if used as-is, either the existing holes will have to be filled with new ones drilled into the wing leading edge, otherwise the gun barrels will splay noticably outwards.

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The Aires main part also requires a lot of cleanup on the reverse side, otherwise it won't fit under the top surface of the kit's wings.

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Not sure if I'll be using these parts now afterall. Hmmm...

 

 

 

I've had similar problems with Aires sets in the past. Now I steer clear of them unless I am certain of no or few problems. :huh:

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18 minutes ago, JohnB said:

I've had similar problems with Aires sets in the past. Now I steer clear of them unless I am certain of no or few problems. :huh:

That's why I stuck with the kit one...harv

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  • 4 weeks later...

Thank you Fran...

My usual Hobby pace is very slow, although this suits me well. I am enjoying the painting stage of these Motor components as I try to work out how to best add the breather tubes between cylinders.

I thought I might expand a little on the techniques I'm using here to apply shading and depth to the cylinders. A wash of diluted black pencil solution is dabbed into the baffles on the front and back, and allowed to dry. After this, the top surface ridges are buffed to remove excess paint. Then, the colour is dabbed onto the parts that require a little depth. The AK pencils are better for this; the standard watercolour pencils tend to pool in blobs, and require the addition of a little detergent to spread evenly into lines and crevices.

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Note the paint inside the 'V' section above the spark plugs on the cylinder. It's applied fairly thickly, but that's not a problem. Once dry, I take a different brush, dampen it with water and work from the centre towards the outside line. The water in the brush moistens the colour, and capillary action sucks the colour back into the wet brush. The entire surface will be wet now; continue to mop up colour until you are happy with the depth of the shading. 

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The left side is done here, leaving a distinct line and a subtle section of shadow. Now to the other side.

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The entire 'V' section is now done, and I've used the same technique with some brown added to the top of the baffle to imply a little heat burnishing, and to add some colour. 

All the while, remembering that this is the front cylinder bank, and as such will largely be hidden by the cowling and motor fan! The use of watercolours also means that any mistakes can easily be removed and re-applied, without the risk of harming the silver lacquer base coat underneath.

S

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