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BlrwestSiR

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Everything posted by BlrwestSiR

  1. If one was able to stay on a 4x6 section, I could have 9 of us working
  2. Bandai do a Death Star II kit and it being about 3" across, would make for a good forced perspective display with the Enterprise. Question is, which Enterprise? The TV version, Refit, or ugh, the JJ-Prise? I think you have the 1/350 kit? That would the two first options.
  3. Awesome diorama Scott. I also thought you might incorporate a Nautilus but dismissed since you built one already. Great way to combine two sci-fi icons. The first pic with the lighting is outstanding. Really makes an impression.
  4. Nice work John. Even though it's a challenging kit, you're just ploughing through it.
  5. Peter, that's an absolutely fantastic job on the engine. This is going to be a great build along with John's to follow.
  6. Great progress Gary. Interesting in that the fuselage has that bevelled edge. I wonder if that's a result of the moulding process. To me, the fit you've achieved seems ok. The canopy looks impressive in its fit too.
  7. That's the sort of display case I'd like to have.
  8. I've started work on the cockpits. First up is the RIO. After cleaning up the resin tub and making sure it fit, I painted the base coat of XF-19 Sky Grey. I then masked off the panels to paint them black. This didn't take too long thankfully. I used Rubber Black for the panels. With the tape removed. There's some detail painting and weathering to be done next.
  9. Thanks Peter. It went easier than I thought it would. I think having the fuselage split up into two upper halves helped. The lower section was a bit more challenging with the engine tunnels. The forward fuselage is already engraved but had a pair of large raised sections that needed to be made flush. They remind me of the BDR patches on the Tamiya F-4 kits. I duly sanded both off and restored the panel lines. The NLG bay has some huge ejector pin marks on it. Problem is they go right through the moulded on detail. I chiselled the details flat and glued some styrene rod over top as a quick fix. It's not perfect but I generally don't flip my planes over.
  10. Great progress Chris. Can't believe how long the struts are. Odd how they could get it that off but your fix seemed to have worked.
  11. Tell me about it. I don't even have window for natural light.
  12. Just putting the final coat of varnish on my new workbench: 36' long and 6' wide. I think I'll be able to start my entire stash on this one and still have room. Don't I wish. It's the cutting table at work that I've been refinishing for the last couple weeks.
  13. Peter, I have a Sharpenair for my airbrush needles: https://www.mapleairbrushsupplies.com/products/sharpenair?variant=31380551043 I picked it up a few years ago and it can straighten out a bent needle tip and remove any nicks in one. It's also simple to use.
  14. That fuel line gave me fits trying to paint the fittings on it. You've made it look so easy.
  15. Must be the Toronto in me talking.
  16. They're in Canada now. Just on the wrong coast but getting closer.
  17. I still need to get the first one!
  18. The cockpit looks fantastic except for that IP like you said. I have reshaped Yahu panels using a diamond file so it can be done. For belts, HGW does some for the Fly kit so those should work too.
  19. Nicely done Spitfire Peter. The kit does need a bit more AM than the others but it still can build up nicely in skilled hands. It'll make a great companion to the Tamiya and Kotare one to come.
  20. Something for @Peterpools's next Kingfisher. Hopefully they work out nicely.
  21. That's very true. The fit has just enough play that it's easy to slowly build in errors that compound once you reach a critical stage.
  22. If you Tamiya Extra Thin Quick Set, that would be another option. It'll flash off and not melt as much.
  23. The IP looks fantastic. The UV gel over the instrument faces really works out nicely. I wasn't sure about the moulded seatbelts at first but they look great from the way you've done them. As for the seam, I'd hold the parts together and then apply a small drop of Tamiya Extra thin by the end of the join where the canopy is. Another option is a small dab of thin CA in the same spot. Any excess could be wiped off with CA removed.
  24. Cool! There's a company called Coastal Kits that sell 2D backgrounds and bases. One of them might be good as a cover for the base. https://www.ebay.ca/itm/113251835326?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=upAoq4Z9SeO&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=J7xpuL_STvq&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=MORE
  25. Peter, nice job on the decal work. That's still one thing I dread. You get a great build, nice paint job and the decals go wrong and it's all for nought. Interesting issues that you had with the Cartograf decals. Like others have said, probably a bad batch. I had that happen to a different Eaglecal sheet years ago. I mentioned it in passing at the the shop I bought them from. The owner immediately grabbed a new set and gave them to me for free and apologized. Felt bad and really didn't need them but he insisted. Hopefully you'll have this one in time for the Kotare one to arrive. That will make quite the comparison.
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