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Revell P-51D Mustang - 2nd time around


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STARTING THE NMF

12/6/21

Apologies are in order. I was just too plain to old lazy to set up the lights and camera and when I did remember, I was already in the middle of shooting the AK aluminum on and never took a single photograph of the black base.

With the MRP Gray Primer on and looking pretty good, it was time to start learning the ins and outs of how to consistently apply Tamiya’s new LP-1 Gloss Black for me and achieve a repeatable smooth finish. My preference has always been to use a working pressure of around 15 psi and apply numerous light coats, working up to a smooth top coat. I still count drops when thinning my paint and almost always use Mr Color Self Leveling Thinner. From what I’ve read, the consensus has been to use 2 parts paint to 3 parts thinner, I gave it a try and just wasn’t thrilled with the results. Since my initial thinning ratio didn’t work well for me, I increased the thinner to paint ratio to: 1 part paint to 2 parts thinner and was quite pleased with the smooth black surface the Mustang wore.

Diving back in, it was time to tackle the start of the NMF and I laid down the first few coats of AK Aluminum over a two-day period: fuselage and wings and then kicked myself in the rear for not photographing the glossy black base but not much I could do about it now (just needed to apologize again).  

I decided to let the AK Aluminum thoroughly dry for a good two days and then I over paint the wings with Alclad II Matte Aluminum for my color difference.

My previously three Tamiya Mustangs all have a very shiny NMF and this time, I thought I would tone it down a bit more of a newly operational aircraft. See how it goes.

I’m finally getting there.    

One happy camper.

Keep ‘em comin

Peter

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Thanks Martin

The AK Aluminum Extreme Metal (AK 479) I used for the base color is enamel based according to the label and not lacquer based as Alclads are. Since I'm planning on doing the wings in Alcald Matte Aluminum (ALC 116) as a top layer, I thought it wise to let the enamel dry for a good 48 hours.

Keep 'em comin

Peter 

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Smooth and shiny Peter, with NMF it's all about preparations. Like you, I really love the Tamiya LP colors, since I tried them on different occasions over the last half year.
The gloss black goes down very smooth and shiny, perfect for metallic coatings. I thin as well with Mr. Levelling Thinner, but with a ratio of 1/3 paint and 2/3 thinner.
As the thinner and color are relatively aggressive, I mist over a first coat, which dries quickly under the airstream and hinder the mix to destroy plastic and/or decals. After that, I spray a wet coat, which perfectly levels itself.

Cheers Rob

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Great paintjob Peter! Based on a perfect preparation you did which is essential for such a livery. I also use both. The AK metalizer paints are even easier to use than the Alclad II colors in my opinion.
Can‘t wait to see the wings painted with Alclad II.

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17 hours ago, DocRob said:

Smooth and shiny Peter, with NMF it's all about preparations. Like you, I really love the Tamiya LP colors, since I tried them on different occasions over the last half year.
The gloss black goes down very smooth and shiny, perfect for metallic coatings. I thin as well with Mr. Levelling Thinner, but with a ratio of 1/3 paint and 2/3 thinner.
As the thinner and color are relatively aggressive, I mist over a first coat, which dries quickly under the airstream and hinder the mix to destroy plastic and/or decals. After that, I spray a wet coat, which perfectly levels itself.

Cheers Rob

Rob, Much appreciated.
Completely agree the new Tamiya lacquers are wonderful paints to work with and thin so very well with Mr Color Self Leveling Thinner. I’m think we are using the same thinning ratio of  one part paint to two parts thinner which seems the ideal ratio. One spin on the the thinning I want to try and am ordering the missing link: Tamiya Lacquer Thinner ((Yellow cap). I used it quite some time ago when I built Tamiya’s 32nd scale Mossie ( my favorite model/ build and the Queen of my collection) and from what I remember, Tamiya Lacquer Thinner is stronger then Mr Colors’ but doesn’t any Retarder ( which I added - Mr Retarder Mild to the mix) awesome results. Going to give this mix a try as I’m sure it will thin thin the LP1 even a bit better. See what happens and another test to be done in a few weeks.

Keep ‘em comin

Peter

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Thanks Kai
Right with you and agree about AK being a bit easier to shoot and it dries to a bit more durable finish then Alclad as I remember. Looking forward to getting into the ‘added color‘ stages as well and not to distant now; one more day to go and I’ll be working on the wings and then back to the fuselage panels and colors. AK being enamel based, I like to give it an extra day or so to completely dry. 
keep ‘em comin

Peter

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Thanks Phil, much appreciated and looking forward to you heading back to the ZM P-51 and finishing her up.

Nope, no need to buy any specific air brush cleaners after using AK Extreme Metals. All I use is good old lacquer thinner from the hardware store and that's it.  I've been using it for years with AK and Alclads and all my paints except Model Air, as it is the only paint that I've ever found that needs it own thinner.  

Keep 'em comin

Peter

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Very nice results there Peter. Nice and smooth. 

Tamiya make their own retarders. They have two, one for acrylics and one for lacquer. The lacquer one has a dark blue top. They also have a lacquer thinner with the retarder mixed in. It has an orange cap on it. I'll try to post some pics of them when I get home in a bit. 

The Tamiya lacquer thinner is definitely on the cool side. I've used it to strip paint off model parts including clear bits without it attacking the plastic. I found that it even helps polish bare plastic and have done it a couple times on canopies. 

Carl

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Here you go. Ignore the ABS cement. 

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Gunze had an article on their website on how to best use retarders and their Mr Color Leveling thinner. They say they're best with semi-gloss and gloss paints but not with flat ones. Supposedly the longer drying time doesn't makes flat paints more glossy. I found that bit interesting.

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Thanks Carl

Will be continuing checking out the various Tamiya Thinners and Retarder today but as with their LP Lacquer Paints (which are finally beIn sold here in the states), their Orange Cap Thinner and Retarder are not available here, after checking all of my normal vendors. I never understood why Tamiya USA doesn’t import the full line of Tamiya products but so far they don’t, including some of their glues and tools.

Crazy as it sounds, I’ve discovered that LP1 Gloss Back while thinned and applied correctly, does lay down super smooth but it’s no where as ‘glossy’ as their Acrylic X1 Gloss Black but LP2 Gloss White is super smooth and much more glossy then their Acrylic Gloss White. Go figure🙃

Thanks for the info and I’ll keep on looking.

Keep ‘em comin

Peter

 

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