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BlrwestSiR

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Everything posted by BlrwestSiR

  1. And after 5 minutes of throwing stickers at it. I might dig out a few more stickers from the stash and fill in some of the blanks.
  2. Not my best RC car paint job but I'm still happy enough with it. It probably won't be this shiny after a minute of running though.
  3. Looks very nice to me. Can't wait to see some paint on it.
  4. The earlier Revell kits have nothing in common with the '90s vintage kit. You can tell by the way they split the lower wing down the middle and through the nose gear bay. Cruelly, they were at one point reboxed by Tamiya in the early '80s and I fell for it back then.
  5. We did...
  6. I guess they set the precedent for the Gimli Glider then.
  7. Seems that way. I was wondering where the things along the bottom of my screen came from. Glad it wasn't just me seeing things.
  8. This is a great sort of wake up call. Where do i line up again? Carl
  9. I've been working on the Grant a bit. It wasn't until after I'd started assembling the tracks that I found out the W210 track has rubber pads. I thought it was similar to the all metal dry pin track that the Canadian version used. Had I known that I would have painted them prior to assembly. With the tracks assembled I decided to airbrush the whole track in rubber black and then mask the rubber pads and paint the end links in steel. At this point, I was getting ready to mask the pads off when I realized I could just dry brush the end links. I figured with a subsequent wash and weathering, it wouldn't be noticed that the end links were perfectly painted. It worked out nicely and took less time that the masking would have. The finished tracks were given a wash with Gunze Sunday wash(that's what it says on the bottle). Next was to install them. Here's the first side done A close up of the track. At the same time, I painted the seat cushions for the Scammell.
  10. Fantastic! Jeroen, do you know how the kit compares to the ZM version?
  11. Neat looking tank there Rob. The masking pen sounds like a neat approach to the camo scheme. Carl
  12. My youngest is absolutely determined to get an aquarium. I've at least steered him away from a marine setup like your wife's. For the time being anyways... Any suggestions for a first timer? He's 7 so I'm thinking a simple filter on the back of the tank. I used to have a 400 liter tank with a big Tiger Oscar but that was at least 20 years ago. Not sure how much things have changed. Carl
  13. I think that's the part I hate the most too. That and having to solder electrical connections when needed.
  14. Bill, it almost feels that way. I wanted to get one about 5 years ago but ended up getting a different truck.
  15. A small update. The trailer hitch is now on. The bellows shaped thingys have a pair of PE brackets that hold them in place on the frame. Good thing I only lost two of them. I used the survivors as templates and cut out new ones from leftover brass on the fret. I then installed the brackets and the other half of the thingys.
  16. Thanks for pointing that out. I hadn't noticed it and it's fixed now. Although I'm not sure it looks like a cap any more. It all gets covered up so...
  17. Really nice work.
  18. At least you didn't say the Force is with Them.
  19. The stock chassis was soon found to have an annoying weakness. The suspension arms attached to it with several ball joints. Unfortunately the plastic tub wasn't strong enough and would break after the first jump. It took years for Tamiya to finally make a change and strengthen the chassis. In the meantime, this was one of the first AM upgrade parts to come out. Here's the weak point in question. The kit now includes a trio of steel brackets that reinforce the chassis from the inside. The pivot balls are screwed into the brackets instead of just the chassis.
  20. Shocks! For now the only real change I'm making to my Clodbuster.
  21. Here's the obligatory box contents shot. Some reference pics for size comparison. Handiest thing I had was my Miniart Grant. Here's the tub chassis. It even still has the Power mode switch opening moulded into it. This was a switch that allowed you to switch the dual motors from running in parallel for max power to series for max battery duration. Run time was around 5 min in Power mode on a state of the art 1300 mAH 7.2v battery pack which cost about $120. Eventually a friend found some 4000mAH batteries that were over $300 but we could run for 45 minutes on one of those. Bad thing was they were physically more than double the size of the stick battery and took a full day to fast charge.
  22. Ok folks, this kit is how and where Tamiya make most of their money. Sadly, it's not on our beloved models. Well, not quite. People say their 1/32 F-14 kit is old and due for an full on update. The Clodbuster has been around since 1987 and they've basically made three changes to the moulds, the colour of the plastic notwithstanding in that time: 1- changed the supercharger scoop 2- removed the Chevy Bow Tie from the front grille 3- added four reinforcement plates to the chassis. This is the truck that truly got the RC monster truck craze going, especially in the US. I remember the countless number of AM custom chassis and suspension kits that were on the market in the late '80s. While companies started up just to make parts for it. It got to the point where Tamiya was selling a spares kit that only contained the parts for the two axles as that's all folks needed from the kit. I had a couple of them at the time. I still have parts from my last Clodbuster which was red instead of blue. I'm still trying to figure out if this is Clod number 4 for me or number 5.
  23. Too much time on my hands?
  24. That's coming along nicely. Great job on the interior. The earlier Panzer III you built looks great too.
  25. Great work on the floats. Glad my suggestion worked for you. Carl
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