Bill_S Posted November 7, 2019 Share Posted November 7, 2019 When this kit was first announced, I knew I had to have one. I want to represent a plane that took part in one of the Ploesti raids. I'm unsure what markings will be on this bird, but it won't be "Wongo Wongo" - that plane was lost before it made it to the target. By the time I get to decals, my hope is that someone will release something that piques my interest... The plan: I'll be working on this plane while simultaneously trying to make a dent in my SOD, so it will take some time. As far as aftermarket, the only plans I have are an Airscale IP and HGW belts (no belts of any kind are present). I've started on the bomb bay... Fit of the parts is very good - there are a lots of pieces to trim off, though. I did a test fit in the fuselage; I'm impressed with the fit. The color callout for the bomb bay is "Neutral Gray" I'll be using MRP Ocean Gray. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_S Posted November 7, 2019 Author Share Posted November 7, 2019 This little note doesn't show up until page 16 of the instructions. The time to figure out where to put weight is now. I zeroed my scale with the container on. I'm not sure what the composition of the balls is, but I counted 187 of them. These first, most obvious place is between the cockpit floor and the roof of the nose gear bay. Next up is the space between the nose gunner/bombardier and the fuselage. The further forward you can put the weight, the less you have to use. 7 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HubertB Posted November 7, 2019 Share Posted November 7, 2019 You might consider the Aerocrafts's brass landng gear fro this one. The parts are straight replacements for the kit's. Hubert 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_S Posted November 7, 2019 Author Share Posted November 7, 2019 Thanks, Hubert! I knew someone made them, but wasn't sure who it was. They've been ordered. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DocRob Posted November 7, 2019 Share Posted November 7, 2019 Nice start Bill, I will buckle in, even though four engine birds are not my focus, because of their sheer size. 300 grams is a lot of weight to hide, but for security reasons I would add some grams, just to be sure, not that you got a tailsitter because of using brass barrels for the guns . Cheers Rob 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bomber_County Posted November 7, 2019 Share Posted November 7, 2019 Nice start Bill. Looking forward seeing more. I’m also trying to clear my SOD, this year I’ve completed six projects from it.......... 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlrwestSiR Posted November 7, 2019 Share Posted November 7, 2019 Nice start Bill. I was looking at the gear inserts and the kit ones look to be ABS rather than regular plastic. I think I'm still going to get the brass ones though. Carl 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harv Posted November 7, 2019 Share Posted November 7, 2019 Nice ! Can't wait for more Bill !.....harv 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Posted November 7, 2019 Share Posted November 7, 2019 Bill, I'm sitting in as well, as for the nose weight, what about lead wheel weights for your car? They make them with sticky tape on one side and are flat, you may find they might not take up as much space as those balls, and that way you may just possibly get MORE into the confined space under the floor?? Just a random thought, that might give you less grief? Jeff 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1to1scale Posted November 10, 2019 Share Posted November 10, 2019 Another thing you can use is 1/32 lead sheet, it can be folded and layered, cut to fit, and would go under the main floor, however, I don’t think it would be enough. I had used lead rod, but it left a lot of dead space. I agree that you might want to use more than the recommended weight. If you can fit enough in. you can look at my thread on this page. Remember, that recommended 300G is in line with the nose wheel, anything behind will decrease effectiveness by a percentage. Don’t worry about the nose wheel, even with a lot of weight, the actual pressure will be barely a few grams, it’s the main gear that will take the majority of the weight of the aircraft. While the main gear are ABS and strong, and gluing them into the clamshell kit gear with epoxy will go a long way for strength, there is always a chance you could accidentally break the gear at some point. After some deliberation, I did order the brass gear inserts, mainly because I have added a lot of internal extras to my B-24j, and this model will probably weigh 5-6 pounds when done. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_S Posted November 12, 2019 Author Share Posted November 12, 2019 On 11/10/2019 at 1:46 PM, 1to1scale said: Another thing you can use is 1/32 lead sheet, it can be folded and layered, cut to fit, and would go under the main floor, however, I don’t think it would be enough. I had used lead rod, but it left a lot of dead space. I agree that you might want to use more than the recommended weight. If you can fit enough in. you can look at my thread on this page. Remember, that recommended 300G is in line with the nose wheel, anything behind will decrease effectiveness by a percentage. Don’t worry about the nose wheel, the engine with a lot of weight, the actual pressure will be barely a few grams, it’s the main gear that will take the majority of the weight of the aircraft. While the main gear are ABS and strong, and gluing them into the clamshell kit gear with epoxy will go a long way for strength, there is always a chance you could accidentally break the gear at some point. After some deliberation, I did order the brass gear inserts, mainly because I have added a lot of internal extras to my B-24j, and this model will probably weigh 5-6 pounds when done. I'm well versed with the concept of moments - it amazes me how many people are under the false impression that adding weight has the greatest impact on the nose wheel! I've begun cutting lead sheet to fit between the cockpit floor and the nose gear well roof. About 175 grams will fill that space; I still have a way to go! 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1to1scale Posted November 13, 2019 Share Posted November 13, 2019 23 hours ago, Bill_S said: I'm well versed with the concept of moments - it amazes me how many people are under the false impression that adding weight has the greatest impact on the nose wheel! I've begun cutting lead sheet to fit between the cockpit floor and the nose gear well roof. About 175 grams will fill that space; I still have a way to go I know, it’s hard finding space for weight, I had the same issue and had to build a false compartment, some can go under the front floor, some on the floor of the compartment between the nose wheel and bomb bay, and a few grams behind the IP. another less effective place to put weight, but pretty roomy is directly behind the engine faces. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martinnfb Posted November 20, 2019 Share Posted November 20, 2019 nice! 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martinnfb Posted November 20, 2019 Share Posted November 20, 2019 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martinnfb Posted November 21, 2019 Share Posted November 21, 2019 A little motivator for interior decoration 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IainMackayDall Posted November 21, 2019 Share Posted November 21, 2019 For that nose weight, its a shame the after market companies do not cast items like the radio blocks, seats in lead or use metal shim for the navigation tables etc. Could flat sections of lead go above the bomb bay roof? Would it be visible? or be too far back to make any weight difference? 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IainMackayDall Posted November 21, 2019 Share Posted November 21, 2019 I've always been curious about these Liberators of the 380th Bomb Group of the American 5th Air Force along with B-24’s on loan to the RAAF that were flown out of Corunna Downs, a secret airbase located in scrub and spinifex country, about 35 kms south west of Marble Bar in "The Pilbara" area of Western Australia. The aircraft carried out numerous bombing raids on Japanese bases and shipping. The Corunna base was officially closed on January 14, 1946, it was never mentioned during the war in press or in any radio reports. There's a B-24 being restored down in Victoria at Werribee: http://warbirdsnews.com/warbird-restorations/werribee-b-24-liberator-memorial-australia-open-house-may-5th.html 4 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_S Posted November 21, 2019 Author Share Posted November 21, 2019 8 hours ago, IainMackayDall said: For that nose weight, its a shame the after market companies do not cast items like the radio blocks, seats in lead or use metal shim for the navigation tables etc. Could flat sections of lead go above the bomb bay roof? Would it be visible? or be too far back to make any weight difference? Iain, There is lots of room above the bomb bay - but in my mind it's not far forward enough of the main gear attachment points to be very effective. To get the same effect as 1 gram placed above the nose wheel, you would need over 5 grams above the bomb bay! 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wumm Posted November 21, 2019 Share Posted November 21, 2019 This might be of some help Iain... https://www.ozatwar.com/380bg.htm S 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_S Posted November 25, 2019 Author Share Posted November 25, 2019 I received my metal landing gear innards from Aerocraft this weekend. The casting is top notch - I'm quite pleased. They'll need some cleanup at the the pour stub at the very bottom of each part. The material is too hard for my file; out comes the trusty Dremel tool. In addition there appears to be a minor bit of sanding to remove artifacts of parting lines present in the kit parts. A hit with the Flexi-File should make short order of those. 4 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrankyCrafstman Posted November 26, 2019 Share Posted November 26, 2019 Hey bill don't forget to drill out the little rings at tge bottom of the main landing gear, just be careful and keep drill centered. Check out my posts on those gear to see were I had to add a reinforcement to the leg. It's in the "J" review. Ron G 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_S Posted December 3, 2019 Author Share Posted December 3, 2019 Hollow nose tire... a perfect place to add some weight! 8 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnB Posted August 5, 2020 Share Posted August 5, 2020 I missed this thread initially. Looks like it will really be a nice build. I considered getting this kit but decided to hold off and go on and complete my 1/72 Academy Minicraft kit which has been in my stash for YEARS. Pyn-Up decals makes some really nice Tidalwave decals. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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