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My plan is to crank this out by November then start something really big.

The Fa330 always interested me as a unique aircraft with an equally unique mission.  This was towed by a U-Boat so the pilot could see beyond U-Boat horizon view and report any enemy activity.

Finally there is a lot of rigging and I will use either RB or GasPatch turnbuckles.  This will get me feeling comfortable for my WNW build, next on the bench.  That's right Kiwi Mike...no typo here.  :)

Fa330.01.jpg

Fa330.03.jpg

30 minutes into this build I was already regretting this.  This aircraft is mostly tubular and the parts are typical short run injection.  Loads of flash and seams.  Cleaning these tubes are going to drive me batty.  So I will cut all remaining tubular parts from .5mm, .4mm and .3mm styrene rod.  This will actually be easier than cutting from sprue and cleaning.

Building balsa wood and tissue models experience will come in handy.

Fa330.04.jpg

Resin main control pully wheel (feel free to correct me on correct definition) and control stick installed with epoxy.  I also wrapped the control stick handle with .2mm lead wire.  A brush coat of paint will give the handle a ribbed appearance.  Spar and 4 sub control pully wheels are cut from styrene.

Fa330.07.jpg

More fun with .5mm and .4mm styrene rods. The rudder gets a .4mm rod on both sides and will be sanded down and this was fabric.  Will also add grab handle I cut out at top of rudder.

Fa330.05.jpg

 

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16 hours ago, nmayhew said:

My God Rick, you must be crazy.

Is this what all those Steelers losses have driven you to?

:icon_eek:

My OCD has reached an enhanced level.  Steelers are turning into an ICU recovery floor. My hopes remain positive.  However, my wife is carefully monitoring my activities with sharp pointy things.

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Skids added.  This required more .5mm styrene rods.  The Fly plastic is soft and works well with welding the styrene to Fly plastic.  Cement is Tamiya Thin Cement.  MEK is too hot for this.

edited-image.jpg

Skids added using only one kit part for braces.  All others were measured and replaced with .5mm styrene rod.

I drilled a .7mm hole at base of rotor mast.  Inserted a trimmed .7mm aluminum tube completely through.  This will be used for the rigging.

Fa330.10.jpg

Fa330.09.jpg

Fa330.11.jpg

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More scratch work.

Fa330.14.jpg

Rigging bar on rudder, left.  Grab bar on tail, right.  Will reduce the rib via sanding prior to paint.

Fa330.13.jpg

Fa330.17.jpg

Grab handles/rigging retainers .4mm styrene rod, bent via mandrel and hair dryer, top main body near base of rotor mast and bottom of main body installed.  Tail pad just below stabilizer.  Also added .4mm aluminum tube just forward to tail pad for rigging.

Fa330.15.jpg

Fa330.16.jpg

Grab handles/rigging retainers on rotor mast.

Fa330.12.jpg

What the heck are these?  Formed using a mandrel and hairdryer I glued the straight pieces to curved pieces.

Fa330.18.jpg

After a little trimming.

Fa330.19.jpg

Cleats don't fail me now!

Fa330.20.jpg

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The cleats and grab/rigging retainers were offered in PE.  I elected to makes these out of stryene as they weld to kit plastic.  The PE would eventually get knocked off as there will be much handling during painting and rigging.  I feel these will be stronger than PE attached with CA.

Almost ready to start painting.

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Your little kite looks great so far and benefits from your beautiful scratch work. I just started a Fly Arado 234 and have to say, good that there are not many tubular structures involved but you have to love Fly for their not so common portfolio.

Cheers Rob

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 10/19/2019 at 10:59 AM, DocRob said:

Your little kite looks great so far and benefits from your beautiful scratch work. I just started a Fly Arado 234 and have to say, good that there are not many tubular structures involved but you have to love Fly for their not so common portfolio.

Cheers Rob

appreciated Rob!  Indeed on the unique FLY portfolio.

On 10/20/2019 at 4:48 PM, JeroenPeters said:

loving this!!

HiHiHiHiHiHi

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My GasPatch Anchor Points shipment is delayed so on to an alternative.  Took my RB Productions turnbuckle and trimmed for anchor point only to the skids. 

Cannot see it?

Fa330.22.jpg

 

Fa330.23.jpg

Drilled .45mm hole and secured with epoxy.  Priming to begin.

 
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Hope of a November completion are fading.  So perhaps mid November.

Prime and painted the main frame is ready for the rigging to begin.

Black from the attack.Fa330.30.jpg

Fa330.27.jpg

Gunze 117 RLM76 used thinned with Mr Leveling Thinner. 2:3 - RLM 76:MLT

Fa330.29.jpg

Fa330.28.jpg

The details show up nicely with a coat of light paint.  A few touch ups and its on the the rigging.

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Are you going to have a go at motorising this? Faulhaber make some very nice, absolutely tiny electric motors, which can have reduction gear-boxes attached, which are likely small enough to the concealed within the main mast. (6mm OD x circa 20mm length, with reduction gearbox attached). They're pretty pricey, but I've a spare one I could let you have at half-price if you're interested. You'd need to fabricate some form of universal joint I would think, to take the vertical orientation of the motor to the inclined disc of the rotor.....

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On 10/30/2019 at 10:56 AM, HubertB said:

Nice job, Rick :thumbsup2:

Hubert

Cheers Hubert.

On 10/31/2019 at 11:15 AM, Fidd88 said:

Are you going to have a go at motorising this? Faulhaber make some very nice, absolutely tiny electric motors, which can have reduction gear-boxes attached, which are likely small enough to the concealed within the main mast. (6mm OD x circa 20mm length, with reduction gearbox attached). They're pretty pricey, but I've a spare one I could let you have at half-price if you're interested. You'd need to fabricate some form of universal joint I would think, to take the vertical orientation of the motor to the inclined disc of the rotor.....

No desire to motorize this.  I've done enough fabricating on this project.  Thanks for checking in.

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  • 2 months later...

A little tease until I get my PB images sorted.  I finished New Years Eve at 1630.  Then spent rest of evening with family. This morning I got a iPhone shot done.  Will post WIP pics over these next few days.

For now enjoy.  More later.

Happy 2020 and have a healthy, prosperous year with plenty of bench time.

 

Fa330.01_1.jpg

Parachute pack and shock cord installed.

 

Fa330.02.jpg

I just love using my kids' Legos for alignment/drying jigs.

Fa330.jpg

 

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Fa330 build update will resume with the following disclaimer.

PHOTO BUCKET DRAMA

BAD NEWS

I was locked out of my Photo Bucket account for almost 2 weeks. 

GOOD NEWS

Access resumed a few days ago. 

BAD NEWS

About a dozen early build images were lost.

MORE BAD NEWS

When I move images to Photo Bucket I will delete any duplicate images on my laptop, xternal HD, etc

GOOD NEWS

Updates coming

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The parachute pack gets some scratch love with styrene rod replacing the pe retainers.

Fa330.1.001.jpg

.33mm styrene rod wrapped around a mandrel and heated with hair dryer.  Then trimmed to desired shape.

Fa330.1.02.jpg

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I added kit decals and data plate decals from MDC at this stage as I want to lessen any opportunities for breaking delicate stuff.

Fa330.1.04.jpg

Fa330.1.05.jpg

GasPatch rigging eyelets attached to rotor blades then painted.  Data plates also added to each blade.

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One of my biggest issues with any short run injection kit is lack of locator holes or pins.  Fly's Fa330 is no different.  To get the correct rotor angle I enlarged the top view profile drawing on the last page of the instructions.

I drilled .5mm holes on the rotor hub for the 3 outriggers.  Then with a small drop of CA glue the hub to the enlarged profile view of rotors.

Carefully drill a .5mm in each outrigger.  Inserting a .5mm brass rod with just about 2mm exposed will give enough for the brass rod to align and keep the outrigger in place while epoxy cures.  Prior to inserting the brass rod I decided to create the turnbuckle for the rigging.

Fa330.1.06_1.jpg

P40_Rigging.05.jpg

Using a .5mm aluminum tube and Ultra Wire extra small I created turn buckles.  The aluminum tube will bend very easy and that's a good thing.

Fa330.1.07.jpg

Turnbuckle is inserted and secured with epoxy.  After epoxy cure (i gave it 3 days) you can carefully bend the turn buckle to the proper angle.

*Outrigger and rotor blade are dry fitted.

Fa330.1.08.jpg

Take photo etch piece #18 and carefully align with the outriggers.  This is where you very carefully bend each outrigger to align with #18.  Once in place secure with epoxy and let cure for a few days.

Fa330.1.09.jpg

After outriggers are cured it's now time to glue the rotor blades to the rotor hub.  Using a Lego pieces will come in handy to give the rotor blades desired pitch.

Fa330.1.10.jpg

Make sure the rotor blade shaft ends are clean of any paint.  Same goes for the mount holes on the rotor hub.  If they are not clear the possibility the epoxy will not hold.

While epoxy is setting align rotor blade and place the Lego piece to give desired angle.  I've seen varying degrees of angles on actual photos and a real Fa330.  All ranging from Droopy to Neutral to Upward.  I elected to go with a neutral with a slight rise.  It's up to the builder.

*15 minute epoxy will afford plenty of time for fine adjustments.  Once satisfied...walk away for 2 days.  Let the epoxy cure.

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