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Hasegawa Fw190D-13 Yellow 10

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Wrapped this one up this evening - my second for the year!! That's some kind of record for me, and it's only May. The world must truly have gone crazy! 

A couple quick teaser shots with my phone for now. I will take some more in the daylight tomorrow with the DSLR and post them with details in the next few days. Thanks!


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As promised, here are the details:


Hasegawa ST19 kit

Eagle Editions "Yellow 10" decals for specific markings and swastikas

HGW wet transfers for national insignia and most stencils

HGW seatbelts

HGW wood decals for flaps

Aires wheel bays and cockpit

Airscale instruments and placards (thanks, Peter!)

Grey Matter Figures (Rutman) D-13 conversion set 

S.O.W. main landing gear legs (thanks Damian!!)

Eduard exterior PE bits and canopy masks

Barracuda wheels

Moskit exhausts (thanks WilliamJ!)

Wire antennae, brake lines, brass tube gun barrels

Homebrew washes and chalk weathering


Thanks for looking!



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Wow, what a great build and finish, love the camo and weathering. I have never seen this kind of overspray on the upper surfaces, even covering the black and white fuselage bands.
How did the HGW wet transfers work? I have some sets for future projects, but have never used them.

Cheers Rob

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6 hours ago, DocRob said:

Wow, what a great build and finish, love the camo and weathering. I have never seen this kind of overspray on the upper surfaces, even covering the black and white fuselage bands.
How did the HGW wet transfers work? I have some sets for future projects, but have never used them.

Cheers Rob


45 minutes ago, BlrwestSiR said:

Fantastic looking! 

I'd be interested to hear about the HGW transfers as well.


This was my first time using them, too, and loved them! Here was my procedure, based on the instructions:

1. Cut out the transfer with about 1/16-1/8 inch of space around it (so you have something to grab later with the tweezers when removing the carrier film). As with decals, a glossy surface is best, but I found that these things would lay down well even on a pretty matte surface using this method.

2. Dip the transfer in WARM water for about 10 seconds, enough to soak the backing paper, and remove. Lay it on a surface that won't soak away the water and let it sit for maybe 20 seconds in it's puddle, but don't give it too much time to cool off - just enough time for it to get loose on the paper. (Water that feels almost hot to the touch worked best, maybe 120 F. Not painful, maybe like the water most people would shower in)

*Note: the instructions recommend setting solution from Mr. Hobby, I think, but I didn't have any of that, so I used the old Microscale products, shown in the picture. I even labeled them 1 and 2, so I would not forget what order to use them in.

3. Apply some Micro SET (NOT Micro SOL) to the surface where the transfer is going. This was new for me, since I use only Micro SOL for decals. But for these things, BOTH products seemed to be needed. Micro SET is the one with the blue writing on it, and it softens the material and improves adhesion, but it's a weaker solution than the Micro Sol, and is less likely to mess up the carrier film or the transfer. Do NOT use Micro SOL (red label) until AFTER you remove the carrier film later.

4. Dab some water off the transfer, then slide it off the backing paper onto the surface with the Micro Set on it. Position it and press the liquid out from under the film with a decal squeegee, paper towel, cotton bud (Q-tip), or such. I'd leave a little so you can do any final positioning before pushing it all out. For bigger transfers, I slopped on a second coat of Micro Set under the edges of the film and pressed it out again. The film is very thin and clear, but strong, so it's easy to position, but it can curl back on itself just like a decal, so take care. 

**Here's an important note: If you realize that you buggered the position after you press out the liquid, get some water worked under the film with a paint brush ASAP to dilute the Micro Set and break it free before it adheres, which it does damn quick! Then reposition it, work some new solution under it and repeat the process.

5. The instructions say to wait 3-4 hours for it to dry before removing the carrier film, but I found that many of the transfers, especially the smaller ones, were dry enough to peel the film in 30 minutes, and even the bigger ones only took an hour or two. If you think it's ready, carefully get a grip on the corner of the glossy film with some tweezers and peel it back slowly. Obviously, if the transfer starts to come up, STOP, work a dab of Micro Set under it again, re-squeegee, and wait longer. I found that slowly peeling the film back parallel to the surface, rather than pulling straight out and away, reduced the chances of lifting the transfer.

6. After the film is removed, you can apply Micro SOL (red label) to the transfer, just like you would to a decal, dab off the excess, and let it dry. I found that these transfers even laid into panel lines and details without poking or cutting usually, but once in a while it still helped to poke a hole and let some Micro Sol get in there to help it out. The Micro Sol has the added benefit of breaking down all the leftover adhesive, so I gave each one a final wipe with some on a Q-tip after they were good and dry. It's important to get that adhesive off, because it will cause weathering chalks and washes to behave oddly in that spot. The instructions say to use water to do this, but I found it really didn't get it all off as well.

Once these transfers are good and dry, I found they are tough as hell, way tougher than any decal. In a couple test cases, I even tried lightly sanding on them with fine grit paper to see if they would peel off, and they wouldn't without some good pressure. I wouldn't suggest taking that too far, though. They are almost like painted on markings. I chipped them just like paint, and they held up great. 

All in all, I found them a fantastic product, and will use them again. Hope that helps!!



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Thank you, that's a very thorough description and I will store it. My actual build of a MIG-31 will be covered in stencils and I have the HGW set for a first timer and will follow your experiences.

Cheers Rob

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Awesome! :thumbsup2:  I always envision my kits turning out something like that but they never quite make it. :wallbash:

Edit:  I've also labeled my setting solutions like you so I don't get them mixed up. :thumbsup2:


Edited by Buckeye82
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  • 3 weeks later...
47 minutes ago, Wolf Buddee said:

Fantastic build Tim!

Thanks also for the HGW wet transfer tutorial. I have them for my Corsair build and have not used them before.



They really kick butt, you're going to love them.

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